Neighbourhoods
Ullanlinna, Eira and Punavuori
Three historic neighbourhoods, home to the city’s best restaurants and retail.
Locals refer collectively to these adjacent neighbourhoods as “Southern Helsinki”. Though the area lays claim to some of the most expensive real estate in the city, it’s still vibrant and popular, replete with great bars and restaurants, leafy boulevards, historic architecture and parks. Base yourself around Korkeavuorenkatu, a pleasant street lined with bistros, old cafés and independent boutiques selling everything from design objects to clothing. When in need of a pitstop, head to Café Succès, which serves some of the best cinnamon buns in the city.
For lunch, don’t miss the legendary Sea Horse restaurant, a longtime Monocle favourite with a classic Finnish menu – order the signature steak with fried onions, sour cream and roast potatoes. During the warmer months, you can’t miss the Brera kiosk and terrace on Tehtaankatu, where you’ll find excellent Italian wine and great cocktails. For a hidden scenic spot, climb the hill to tucked-away Engelinaukio park to enjoy views of the Baltic Sea and the city’s period architecture. Book a table for dinner at Jason, run by one of Helsinki’s most celebrated chefs, Jari Vesivalo, for an ambitious take on modern Nordic cuisine. The area also features many of Helsinki’s finest bars – we recommend Goldfish for the city’s best old fashioned, or Jackie, a lively hangout with DJs and a youthful crowd.
Katajanokka
An art nouveau treasure trove.
You’ll often see groups of architecture students on a guided tour of Katajanokka as they marvel at the neighbourhood’s playful buildings made in the Jugend style – the Finnish art nouveau movement, known for its use of motifs that draw from the country’s nature and mythology. There are plenty of examples of this in the area but the colourful street of Luotsikatu is a great place to start.
On the fringes of the peninsula is a popular jogging route featuring views of the archipelago, a dock with Finland’s biggest icebreakers, leafy parks and coveted real estate. We recommend plotting a course that starts and finishes at Allas Pool, a seaside bathhouse and sauna complex – the perfect place to relax after pounding the pavement. For a caffeine hit, stop by Johan & Nyström, a pioneer of new-wave coffee. Katajanokka is also home to the Sokos Hotel Pier 4, which houses a great farm-to-table restaurant and a popular rooftop cocktail bar. Alternatively, consider Wellamo, an intimate local bistro. Order the venison or a freshly caught siika (whitefish).
Kallio
A vibrant neighbourhood that never sleeps.
Once a working-class district, Kallio is no match, aesthetically speaking, to older parts of Helsinki but it is unbeatable when it comes to having a good time. After all, it is home to dozens of great drinking spots, from ambitious wine bars and pubs to speakeasies. It’s also known for its international mix of restaurants – Japanese Kampai 3” and Syrian Karaz among them – as well as its annual summer block party.
The Firm mixes great cocktails, including well-executed classics along with original drinks that use ingredients such as guava, habanero and umeshu, while Wino’s list of natural wines is tough to beat. For food, make a beeline for Harju 8, an easygoing spot with live jazz performances and a menu that blends Finnish and Mediterranean influences. For something more ambitious, try Maukku or Twenty Four Social Club. But Kallio is best experienced without a set plan – just go with the flow as every street has bars, cafés and restaurants worth checking out.
