Neighbourhoods
Los Feliz
Old Hollywood without the performance.
Los Feliz is rooted in history. The streets, which slope gently towards Griffith Park, are lined with jacaranda trees, old apartment buildings and homes hidden behind dense gardens. Though there is money here, it is rarely in your face. Begin your morning at Go Get Em Tiger, where film producers, architects and screenwriters grab a coffee before starting their day. Spend the afternoon walking through the park and lingering in Skylight Books on Vermont Avenue, one of the best independent shops in the city. Lunch at either Little Dom’s for reliable Italian-American fare or All Time for something more seasonal. Come evening, head to Tam O’Shanter – the tartan carpeting and carved wooden booths have remained the same since 1922 – for first-rate steak. Afterwards, sip on a martini over live jazz at The Dresden, which has featured in many classic films and TV shows.
Highland Park
Eastside Los Angeles is hitting all the right notes.
This area represents a newer Los Angeles – one shaped by artists, musicians and small independent businesses. York Boulevard and Figueroa Street form the centre of gravity, with excellent wine bars, record shops and restaurants. Stop by all-day café Highly Likely and Gold Line to sample its considered natural-wine list. After, browse the smaller boutiques and vintage shops – Sunbeam Vintage and Avalon are highlights – and if you still have an appetite, head to Villa’s Tacos for authentic birria. Unlike many of the more polished parts of the city, Highland Park rewards wandering. It’s at its best at dusk, when people spill out onto patios for conversations as the sun sets.
Larchmont Village
For long lunches and a slower pace of life.
Larchmont Village is only a few blocks long but contains a particular fantasy of Los Angeles living. The streets are walkable and there is a sense that everyone has somewhere pleasant to be, whether it’s in one of the area’s many independent shops or the Sunday farmers’ market. If you need a retail hit, head to Chevalier’s Books, a neighbourhood favourite since 1940, and Landis Lab for a world-class selection of rare fragrances. Lunch at Osteria Mozza is always a good idea, particularly if there’s wine involved. For dinner, Kali’s Californian cuisine is worth checking out. End the night by catching a late screening at the New Beverly Cinema, Quentin Tarantino’s repertory house, or linger over wine at Tabula Rasa.
