Bars and restaurants
Woodside Inn, Colaba
In the early 20th century, this drinking spot housed India’s first Rolls-Royce depot. It now serves artisanal beers, burgers and ros omelettes with coconut gravy and Goan spices. Come for the people watching too, as lawyers, stockbrokers and journalists congregate here to unwind after work. There are locations in Bandra (pictured, above and below) and Andheri that are well worth a visit too.
Bandra Born, Bandra
Chef Gresham Fernandes grew up in the football-playing, rock’n’roll-loving, beer-drinking area of Bandra. This heady atmosphere is channelled into the menu, which changes regularly and nods to local culture. The cocktail menu is punchy – try the kadak nimbu sharbat, which mixes lemonade with mahura and kaffir lime.
The Bombay Canteen, Lower Parel
This canteen offers elevated takes on regional cooking: spicy, meat-heavy recipes from central India; dishes with fermented ingredients from the northeast; and sundried produce from the north. Take a seat in the dining hall or perch on a stool by the bar and order from the seasonal menu. If available, the chilled seabass sev puri and the gucchi girda, made with morels and haak spinach sourced from Kashmir, are must-tries.
Across, Kala Ghoda
The menu at this cosy spot is informed by food from Nepalese chef Prakriti Lama Patel’s home country, as well as cuisine from Sikkim (northeast India) and Bhutan. We recommend the trout sekuwa (skewered meat marinated in yoghurt and spices) and the ema datshi (a stew of Bhutanese chilli and cheese). Wash it all down with the paulite cocktail, a mix of tequila, Aperol and homemade amaretto.
Americano, Kala Ghoda
Alex Sanchez’s casual California-inspired restaurant has gathered a cult following thanks to first-rate dishes such as seabass crudo and handmade orecchiette. Try to reserve a spot in advance or turn up early and order a negroni while you wait for a table.
Kaspers, Bandra (West)
A punchy version of a Marais bistro, Kaspers has walls adorned with cherub frescoes, bright terrazzo flooring and tables that double up as surfaces for a game of Jenga. The menu is just as playful: when Monocle visits, we order the veal cheek and sweetbread cromesquis, which is served like a vada pav (a local potato-patty burger), and the mud-crab gratin with kasundi mustard from West Bengal.
Masque, Mahalaxmi
At Masque, Varun Totlani serves a seasonal 10-course menu that is inspired by regional Indian fare, from the coconut-heavy cuisines found along the coast to the meat dishes from the northeast. Standouts include ponkh, a gluten-free winter grain, alongside seaweed; crab in a seabuckthorn gravy; and pickled strawberry served with rabri (extra thickened milk) on a graham cracker.
Bar Paradox, Mahalaxmi
This spot from the team behind Masque offers cocktails on tap: tap number two, for instance, contains vodka, mastika, pea-shoot leaf, rhubarb and ginger. The pace usually picks up closer to midnight, so arrive late for a lively atmosphere.
KGC Wine Bar, Kala Ghoda
In the tiny backroom of a buzzy café, KGC is the perfect place to kick back after an evening of gallery-hopping in Kala Ghoda. Its roster of DJs plays everything from hip-hop to disco on Fridays and Saturdays. The wine list features Indian varieties along with labels from around the world.
Papa’s, Bandra
Named in memory of late New York chef Floyd “Papaji” Cardoz, this intimate 12-seater offers an omakase-style 13-course dinner by Hussain Shahzad. Past menus have included watermelon rasam soup, barbecued rabbit with a red-ant wash and blue-cheese ice cream.
La Loca Maria, Bandra
As Manuel Olveira tells it, his mother, Maria, was deemed “loca” (crazy) for opening her own restaurant in their hometown of Toledo, Spain. The menu here focuses on tapas: the garlic prawns, ham croquettes, beef tartare and crispy fish tacos are highlights, though you should also save space for the lobster paella.
Izumi, Bandra
Run by Nooresha Kably, a graduate of Tokyo Sushi Academy, Izumi is arguably Mumbai’s most popular Japanese restaurant. The interiors feature low seating, pale wood, noren curtains and graphic elements that reference Hokusai. Start with a few sharing plates, such as the spinach gomae, unagi don, scallop carpaccio and prawn okonomiyaki, before moving on to the tonkatsu ramen and black-sesame ice cream.
Idoru, Bandra
This tiny bar above sister restaurant Izumi is a cross between an izakaya and a listening room, with cosy, crimson mood lighting. Drinks are by Koki Ito, the mind behind Tokyo’s Cocktail Bar Raven. The umami highball, with Bombay-duck-infused tequila, is a must.
