Where to keep warm this season: From a homely Slovenian retreat to a historic inn in Austria
We hike up the mountains of Slovenia for a stay that also serves delectable dishes or at a much-loved revived hotel in Austria. Plus: mix yourself a top tipple courtesy of Charles Ingvar.
Chalet Sofija
Gozd Martuljek, Slovenia
Gazing at the snow-covered peaks of Slovenia’s Julian Alps from the sun-kissed terrace of Chalet Sofija is not exactly hard work. Especially for guests reclining in the heated outdoor swimming pool, gently massaged by the bubbles in the water and, perhaps, refreshed by a glass of something similarly effervescent.
If the temperature starts to drop, they can retreat to the adjacent glass-fronted sauna or unwind with a massage in the spa. But for the couple who own and run this luxury hideaway up a steep, winding road, a short drive away from the bustling Kranjska Gora ski resort, this is the culmination of a lifetime of labour.
“I like to call it a retirement project,” says Aleksandra Rass with a chuckle. “After 75 years, this is an excellent last part of my life,” confirms her partner, Svetozar Raspopovic, a renowned Ljubljana restaurateur and chef who is universally known as Pope. “Relaxing with new guests and new experiences in an excellent place on top of the mountain.”
It does rather depend on one’s definition of relaxation. The couple are very much hands-on hosts, preparing everything from breakfast made with freshly laid eggs to the sumptuous dinners featuring venison from neighbourhood hunters and cheeses from nearby farms. Raspopovic personally carves the oven-roasted rib-eye steak in front of diners, while Rass keeps guests informed about the provenance of the ingredients and offers tips for mountain hikes and road trips.
They say that Chalet Sofija is their home – and it feels like it, though an offer to help with the washing up was cheerfully rebuffed. The downstairs lounge has piles of books and magazines for leisurely perusing, while the five spacious bedrooms are named after the couple’s grandchildren. Each features an impressive, Slovenian-made Coufer sound system and a TV hidden inside a Roche Bobois console – not that you’ll want to enjoy that rather than the view.
Charles Ingvar spirits
Vienna
Swedish-born industrial designer and engineer Billy Charles Ingvar Fransson began experimenting with spirit-making in Vienna during the pandemic, producing more than 100 varieties on his kitchen stove. His brand, Charles Ingvar, was launched in 2022, first with a botanical gin with a subtle touch of liquorice, followed by a fragrant limoncello and punchy herbal liqueur Sichuan Bitter.
Produced in small batches, the spirits’ ingredients include Austrian juniper for the gin and southern Italian lemons for the limoncello, which Fransson peels by hand. “It’s like something a nonna would make at home,” he says.
The labels on the apothecary-style bottles featuring soft, colourful shapes are the work of Viennese designer Daniela Bily. As for how to use his dry gin, Fransson suggests adding it to a citrus-forward martini, a refreshing tonic after a day on the slopes.
Hotel Madrisa
Gargellen, Austria
In Austria’s Gargellen, the highest village in the Montafon valley, the mountain road ends abruptly. Just before the Schafbergbahn cable-car station, a dark wooden art nouveau façade rises proudly. Hotel Madrisa is named after the majestic 2,826-metre peak that marks the border between Vorarlberg in Austria and Graubünden in Switzerland. Built in 1906, the hotel still exudes the grandeur of early winter-sports tourism, when skiing was a pursuit of the sophisticated few.
The Rhomberg family has owned and operated the hotel since the 1930s and today, Monika Rhomberg and her children, Johanna and Paul, the third and fourth generation, continue this legacy. A painting in the rustic bar portrays the founder, Bertram Rhomberg. Each generation has left its imprint: Bertram’s wife, Midy, added a small ski lift to allow guests to ski in and out. “We have many regulars, some who once came here with their parents now return with their own children,” says Monika.
The current generations are keeping the hotel up to date. Most recently, the dining room – where guests now enjoy Alpine-inspired fine dining created by Czech chef Zdenek Cepera – has been redesigned with warm oak wood and intimate alcoves. But Johanna and Paul’s most beloved spot is the club room downstairs, where guests can let their hair down until the small hours.
