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Twelve stops for Christmas

Pondering where to pick up gifts this year? Let our editors guide you with their pick of the best shops, emporiums and design stores on the most inviting shopping streets around the globe.

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As the year comes to an end and a new one begins, ringing in the festive season, we’re taking you on a whirlwind tour around some of the world’s best retail cities, shopping streets and independent stores, from Budapest to Tokyo. These are places our editors have stopped in and shopped at on their myriad reporting trips; places to explore and marvel at. You’ll find a fantastic new bookshop in Brooklyn, a pint-sized gem of a home-goods shop in Tokyo, a destination for local design in Mexico City and a family-run antiques store in Lisbon.

Wooden dachshund toy on wheels with brown and tan finish displayed on light wood surface.
Dachshund delight

We’ll show you the finest neighbourhoods to visit and roads to linger on. After all, finding the perfect gift is just as much about discovering a new part of town and stepping inside a shop that you’ve never spotted before as it is about selecting that well-made present to bring home. Let the following pages be an inspiration for your Christmas wishlist and a shopping guide that will serve you all year round.


1.
Top of the shops
City guide: Tokyo

From department stores to one-of-a-kind specialists, shopping in Tokyo is so diverse that it can leave you feeling spoilt for choice. Explore our pick of under-the-radar finds from our Tokyo bureau.

What to buy:


2.
Transcending tiles
Shop: San Francisco

Husband-and-wife team Robin Petravic and Catherine Bailey want their Heath Ceramics shops to be about more than just tiles and tableware. The urban factory-cum-shop in San Francisco’s Mission District, for example, has an excellent newsstand. “We want to connect and have an experience that is not just about shopping,” says Petravic.

What to buy:

Drinks set
Part of Heath’s Winter Seasonal collection, this set comes with fine glassware in slate green and calamine blue by R+D Lab, a bowl by Studio Prepa and a Kaymet serving tray.

Stillwater bowl and napkin set
A pair of two Plaza Dessert bowls, matched with a pair of linen Block Shop napkins.

Cooking set
Heath’s classic Deep Serving Bowl is accompanied by a tea towel from Växbo Lin, a maple cutting board, a large stainless-steel serving spoon and a cookbook by Gabriela Cámara

Toskaft throw
This Røros Tweed throw, woven with soft Norwegian wool in a grey and turquoise pattern, looks good on the couch and keeps you warm on chilly nights.

Doris pillow
Part of Finnish designer Johanna Gullichsen’s Normandie Collection, this cushion is inspired by the era of luxury ocean liners.


3.
Turn the page
Shop: New York

Don’t depend on Amazon’s algorithms to guide your next book purchase. Instead, search out havens of the printed word such as The Center for Fiction, which recently moved from Manhattan to Brooklyn’s Fort Greene neighbourhood. The bright space encompasses a lending library and studio spaces for members, as well as a fantastic bookshop.

“There was the sense that people need a physical place to come together with those who share their interests and create a feeling of community,” says director Noreen Tomassi. To this end the space is open until 22.00 most nights and there is even a bar and café, not to mention a vibrant line-up of workshops and talks.

What to buy:

A Novel Approach
Based on a 45-minute consultation – on the phone or in person – the Center tailors a year’s worth of reading material to you for $200 (€180) and sends you one book a month.

Membership
Buying membership for someone starts at $180 (€160) a year and includes access to a collection of more than 70,000 titles, plus discounts for events, workshops and the bookshop.

Pick up a book from the shop
Here are our recommendations: A Fairly Honourable Defeat by Iris Murdoch; Sparse Black Whimsey: A Memoir by Marcus Scott Williams and Parade: A Folktale by Hiromi Kawakami (translated by Allison Markin Powell).


4.
Plenty in store
Shop: Berlin

Berlin’s biggest department store first opened in 1907 as The Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe), bringing exotic fruit and Parisian couture to Germany. Today KaDeWe continues to showcase the best products from around the world, from fashion to food. The most festive of all floors is the sixth, with its terrazzo food hall. Here you can pick up beautifully packaged delicacies while enjoying wine and oysters.

Offering hard-to-find and luxury brands, the recently revamped women’s and menswear departments were recently furnished by designer India Mahdavi and Storage Milano respectively. The renovations are part of architect Rem Koolhaas’s conversion, which will help KaDeWe look good for years to come.

What to buy:

PräsentkorbA personalised gourmet gift basket, including Schrödinger’s Katzen Gin and Belgian biscuits.

Bag by Maison HeroïneThis Berlin label creates functional, minimalistic bags.

Abstract Arrow scarf by Off-WhiteMade by the Milan brand in black or orange, as you see fit.

Secrid walletDesigned and made in the Netherlands, these wallets are also fitted with an aluminium card protector.

Beauty set by Und GretelOrganic Wint mascara, Tagarot lipstick and Luk Creme eye stick from a local make-up brand.


5.
Independent spirit
Neighbourhood guide: Vienna

West of Vienna’s historic city centre, in the 7th district of Neubau, you’ll find a bastion of independent retailers, from family-run antique shops to contemporary concept shops. The area has long been populated by traders and craftspeople, helping to make it the city’s established stronghold of liberalism and freethinking. That said it too conforms to the city’s strict Catholic rules: no shopping on Sundays and certainly not on Christmas Day.

Neubau’s main thoroughfare, Neubaugasse, often turns into a multi-block flea market, while the Christmas market in the district’s Spittelberg quarter is considered one of the best in the city. From mid-November the street is lit up by dozens of market stalls selling seasonal ornaments, wooden toys, snow globes and ceramics, not to mention Glühwein.

Here’s our pick of some of the district’s best buys.

What to buy:

sous-bois.at


6.
Perfect Finnish
Shop: Helsinki

Inspired by their travels around the world, South Korean Aamu Song
and Finnish native Johan Olin opened one-of-a-kind shop Salakauppa. On their trips the pair visited craft masters in Finland, Russia, Japan and beyond, learning techniques to create artisanal toys, clothes and homeware.

What to buy:

Blue BearThis painted, bear-shaped birch tin is for storing keepsakes and is handmade by Master Sunohara in the Nagano region of Japan.

Lucius and Lucia candleholdersSong and Olin designed these candleholders for their Secrets of Finland collection, which celebrates Finnish craft and festivities.

Small City puzzleAn eight-piece puzzle in the form of a decorative birchwood cityscape, designed by Olin and manufactured by Haapareppu in Finland.

Fruit MatryoshkaThis set of six nesting fruits (pineapple, grapes, pear, apple, mandarin and apricot), created by Song, is ideal for festive table decorations.

Mama BirdThese five finely designed figurines are characteristic of the duo’s designs: they are pretty to look at and fun to play with.


7.
Design with distinction
City guide: Mexico City

Mexico City’s shopping scene is a mixed bag: independent shops steered by savvy entrepreneurs have popped up next to colourful markets and tianguis (street stalls), selling everything from pre-Hispanic artefacts to secondhand goods.

The fashionable and more pedestrianised areas of Roma Norte, Condesa and upscale Polanco are where you’ll find the city’s most coveted contemporary-design goods and are your best bet for gift shopping. While areas such as menswear are still finding their feet, the city has a strong contingent of furniture and homeware-makers, bringing together traditional craft and modern know-how.

What to buy:

Onora, PolancoNew Yorker Maggie Galton and Mexican María Eladia Hagerman showcase artisanal craftwork.
Gift suggestion: Felted wool cushions from Chiapas.
330 Lope de Vega, 11560

Loose Blues, Juárez
This space comprises a concept shop downstairs and a Japanese diner above. Both are owned by Mexican Jacqueline Mota and her Japanese husband Shota Kimura.
Gift suggestion: Parallel Spanish-English literature by Ediciones Acapulco.
44 Dinamarca, 06600
+52 55 5546 4359


8.
One of a kind
City guide: Budapest

Budapest’s design scene is buoyant and the Hungarian capital is both an obliging host and a safe bet for one-off finds for picky recipients. Csendes Concept Store (Art N Craft) on leafy Karolyi Square is piled high with handsome hand-thrown ceramics, plus stationery, soap and furniture (and a small deli if you’re peckish).

Mono Art and Design shows off a breadth of the best design the city has to offer, including pots from Eniko Kontor and womenswear from co-founder Judit Garam’s brand Nubu. On the Buda bank of the Danube and not far below the castle of the same name is Prezent, which rounds out the city’s craftiest collection of notebooks, bags and leather goods.

For furniture a single stop will do (though Fabrika deserves an honourable mention). Möbelkunst, located in the industrial ninth district (take a taxi), shows off owner Andras Fugerth’s impeccable taste in Scandi side tables, mid-century sofas and even a few budget-friendly Hungarian knock-offs of interwar chairs and pendants.

For a sense of the city’s tradition, hotfoot it to Vass Shoes for a pair of dapper derbies or double monks, or the nearby Nanushka clothing store for a taste of the homegrown fashion scene.


9.
Hit the streets
Neighbourhood guide: Los Angeles

Tucked away east of Downtown LA, the Arts District has become an urban oasis for design aficionados. In the midst of the hustle and bustle of this sprawling city you’ll find walkable streets lined with creative studios and quirky shops, making it a good antidote to Rodeo Drive.

The best place to start is 1 Alchemy Works on East 3rd Street. Run by husband and wife Raan and Lindsay Parton, this space combines retail with an art gallery and is popular for its hand-thrown ceramics, eyewear and grooming products. Nearby general store 2 The Good Liver is a safe bet for high-quality and functional products with a classic design aesthetic, including Japanese Usuhari glasses, Kaweco pens and Robert Herder Windmühlenmesser knives.

For fashion head to 3 The Voyager Shop, which carries some of the best new designers in California and beyond, with an impeccable collection of accessories, Scandi-inspired clothing and utility bags. If you’re looking specifically for menswear try neighbouring 4 Wittmore, which stocks brands such as La Paz, Officine Generale and Mollusk.

5 Hennessey 1 Ingalls is a mandatory stop: this minimalistic bookshop specialises in the visual arts, architecture, photography and design. It has since grown from its foundation in the 1960s as a niche shop to a cherished staple among creatives in the city.

To get a sense of what’s being made in the city, head over to Row dtla and explore 6 Still Life Ceramics: it’s a studio and shop where you can pick up homeware crafted by local artists – or even better, make something yourself.


10.
Looks and charm
Neighbourhood guide: Lisbon

Lisbon’s neighbourhood of Príncipe Real has seen the most change in the city’s recent transformation. New restaurants serving worldly flavours, and shops selling international brands, have sprung up in this fashionable district, giving it a particularly cosmopolitan feel. Despite that, Príncipe Real has managed to retain its traditional character.

Pastel-coloured apartment buildings line the hilly streets where the famed yellow tram passes, while residents gather in the neighbourhood’s park, or play chess at the nearby Oliveira kiosk, an institution since the 1980s. The area’s main street, Rua da Escola Politécnica – which runs from the Natural History Museum past the lush Príncipe Real garden and continues down to the Chiado area as Rua Dom Pedro V – has evolved over time to encompass a diverse assortment of independent retailers. We’ve picked our top shops on this picturesque stretch.

What to buy:

Loja Quer
Beautifully crafted wooden rocking horses, colourful drums made out of cork, soft toys made by Danish brand Maileg: this is the place to go to spoil the kids.
Gift suggestion: The white-bird mobiles are the shop’s bestsellers for a reason.
82A Rua da Escola Politécnica
+351 966 625 296

Casa Pau-Brasil
Head to the 18th-century Castilho Palace for Brazilian goods including Q Chocolate, Granado soap and iconic Brazilian furniture.
Gift suggestion: Osklen’s fashionable espadrille-style shoes make a great gift for those longing for warmer days.
42 Rua da Escola Politécnica
+351 213 420 954

21PR Concept Store
This lovely shop sells everything from clothes to sunglasses and carries a mix of international and local brands, such as Gustoko and Campomaggi handbags, as well as rugs and textiles from Morocco.
Gift suggestion: Portuguese Musgo Real-scented soaps by heritage brand Claus Porto.
20 Praça do Príncipe Real
+351 213 469 421


11.
Raft of crafts
Shop: Sydney

Couta leatherknot key chainDesigned by Sibella Court, this leather key chain is inspired by the couta: a timber boat used to catch barracuda fish in the 19th century.

Panama hat“It’s my favourite hat,” says Court of the ivory hat made in Ecuador. “You can’t go wrong with a Panama, at any age.” Enough said.

Ship cushionInspired by a Dutch painting of a ship sailing on stormy seas, these linen cushions were originally created by Court for a hotel – and are an artwork in themselves.

Apothecary matchesLighting a candle is a joy with these extra-long matches, stored in hand-blown apothecary jars.

1803 kitchen knifeMade from carbon steel in Canberra, these knives are offset with an antler handle (sourced from red deer in New South Wales, which shed their antlers naturally).

What to buy:


12.
Work of art
Shop: Paris

Paris has plenty of shops to discover but none quite compare to the expansive Haut Marais-based crafts marketplace Empreintes. Run by the professional fine-arts federation Ateliers d’Art de France, it showcases a selection of works by about 6,000 member ceramicists, glassblowers, metal artists, woodworkers and sculptors from throughout France. “When we opened Empreintes in 2016 we wanted to invite people to rediscover the authenticity of objects born of today’s crafts professions,” says brand manager Morgane Couteller.

What to buy:

Table lampThis lighting collection by Studio Pok brightens up winter days with a beechwood base and Limoges porcelain lampshade in a variety of shapes.

Dachshund toyLudijouet’s wooden dachshund on wheels is not your typical children’s toy. It’s a collector’s item, handcrafted from cherrywood by the Pays-de-la-Loire based Pierre Vignaud.

Recycled glass vaseGlassblower Jean Michel Daluzeau uses old glass bottles to create colourful vases that are decorative and playful in equal measure.

Table setPia van Peteghem’s Cosmo line of speckled ceramic jugs, mugs and bowls puts a Jackson Pollock spin on everyday tableware.

Oversized earringsWood artist Salomé Charly has branched out into creating wood-and-silver jewellery with sculptural lines.

Illustration of a gift box positioned diagonally on wrapping paper with the bottom corner being folded over it.

And finally…
Looking good in paper
By Marie-Sophie Schwarzer

Gift-wrapping is an art in Japan. If you follow these simple steps you can prepare your present within 30 seconds, just like they do in Tokyo. Well, with a little practice…

1.
Place your gift box diagonally on the wrapping paper, so that the top corner of the paper is in line with the centre of the box and leaving enough room for the paper to cover the entire parcel. Now neatly fold the bottom corner of the paper over the box.

Line drawing illustration showing step 2 of Japanese gift wrapping technique with folded paper.

2.
Tuck in the edge flap, then fold the left-hand side of the wrapping paper over the parcel, ensuring that it’s neatly aligned.

Line drawing illustration showing step 3 of Japanese gift wrapping technique with folded paper on a box.

3.
Now tackle the top edge. Once again, tuck the edge flap inwards towards the side of the parcel. Then rotate the box twice, ensuring that the edges of the paper are perfectly aligned.

Step 4 of Japanese gift wrapping technique showing how to fold paper on box corner

4.
Move on to the bottom right-hand side of the box. Tuck in the edge flap while neatly folding the right-hand side of the wrapping paper over the parcel to form a triangle. Tuck under the excess paper to ensure the edge of the triangle meets the bottom right corner of the parcel.

Illustration of a gift box partially wrapped with paper folded into a triangle shape on the top right corner.

5.
Tuck in the last edge flap on the top right-hand corner of the box and fold the last bit of wrapping paper over the parcel.

Illustration showing step 6 of Japanese gift wrapping technique with folded paper forming triangular flaps on a box.

6.
Once again, tuck under the excess paper to ensure that the last flap forms a perfect triangle with the corners of the parcel.

Illustration of a wrapped gift box with tape being applied to the final flap.

7.
Now get out a piece of tape (the only one you’ll need) and fasten down the final flap.

Illustration of a wrapped gift box with tape and a slot for a gift card.

8.
Voilà: your gift is wrapped. And there’s even a slot for you to place a card.

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