Best in show: The top 10 collections from Milan Fashion Week
From Prada to Moschino and Jil Sander, here are the best shows from Milan’s spring/summer 2027 runways.
The spring/summer 2027 edition of Milan Fashion Week was one of consolidating visions as creative directors settled into their roles at Italian luxury houses. Prada focused on the single concept of a skirt, represented in 63 different ways, while Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for Fendi exhibited a loosening of house codes. Finally, Demna took show attendees to a makeshift Gucci shop. Here are the 10 shows that caught our attention.
1.
Prada
At the Italian fashion house’s spring/summer 2027 menswear show in June, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons began a conversation about the power of paring things back and distilling ideas to their purest form, zooming in on the divisive skinny-trouser silhouette. The womenswear show continued to explore the same design principles. Here Prada and Simons chose to shine the spotlight on the skirt, which elicited a warmer reaction from the editors and buyers in attendance.
Described as a “Prada obsession” in the brand’s show notes, it was reimagined in a variety of styles, from playful and heavily embellished to pleated and collegiate. Some looks were paired with knitwear – a nod to Mrs Prada’s own uniform – while others were worn with printed crop tops, distressed leather jackets and sunglasses with mismatched lenses.
Prada and Simons argue that the perception of a piece of clothing and, by extension a person, can change depending on a few simple styling tricks. Along the way, they propose an array of different style personas that you can adopt come next spring, from librarian to raver. Prada’s beauty and commercial success lie in the brand’s ability to appeal to both.
prada.com
2.
Etro
Following creative director Marco de Vincenzo’s exit last March, Etro presented a spring/summer 2027 collection designed by its in-house studio. Without a creative steward at the helm, collections by fashion houses tend to lack fresh, bold ideas. Etro focused on remixing existing signatures: frilly, paisley dresses; airy kaftans; and plenty of fringed accessories and gladiator sandals that conjured up 1970s Ibiza.
Even if the collection didn’t push the house in a fresh direction, it highlighted its carefree, bohemian spirit – and its potential to become the go-to summer brand for customers who jet between Paros, Capri and the south of France every season. This crowd is currently clad head to toe in Pucci – the LVMH-owned label that has been enjoying a successful revival under designer Camille Miceli – but will soon start looking for a wardrobe update. With the right creative director hire, Etro could become the next big hit.
etro.com
3.
Jil Sander
Since his appointment as the creative director of Hamburg-founded brand Jil Sander in 2025, Simone Bellotti has built a fanbase of clients who seek him out for his ability to imbue minimalism with just the right amount of edge. This was the case at his latest spring/summer 2027 show, which explored the seductive charm of imperfection. “Creating a collection is like going to therapy,” says Bellotti. “You take things apart to understand what you want to keep. Then you put them back together.”
This season’s show mirrored a wave: how it builds up, crescendoes and inevitably crashes down again. It began with the rigour of a uniform: buttoned-up black blazers and grey car coats worn over suit trousers. Then slowly, movement emerged through ballooning proportions, scrunch details on knitwear and a colour palette that transitioned from muted hues to yellow, pink and baby blue. In the end, what remained was a sense of release, felt in the loosely styled jackets worn over unbuttoned shirts and jumpers strewn across shoulders – a reimagined uniform.
jilsander.com
4.
Fendi
In her second collection for Fendi, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has been having more fun. A sense of carefree abandon was palpable when her lineup of models strutted down the runway to disco hits by Rafaella Carrà, wearing feather-light slip dresses, fur stoles in unexpected shades of turquoise and hints of animal print.
Chiuri kept returning to a line from a 1925 poem by EE Cummings – “I like my body when it is with your body” – which was printed on the invitation to the show and turned into a visual installation, lighting up the entrance. The quote got her thinking about “clothes as second skin”, hence the transparent silks that resemble undergarments, lace trims and loosely tailored vests in her new range. Ever the romantic, Chiuri described her airy spring/summer clothes as “porous to emotions” and amplified the hippie spirit with fringed accessories and folkloric vests. In doing so, she has channelled a collective sentiment of freedom and optimism – and her collection will surely appeal to the loyal customer base that she built during her tenure at Dior.
fendi.com
5.
Marni
Belgian designer Merryl Rogge presented her second collection for Marni in a captivating space conceived by Italian design studio Formafantasma. The wooden panels from last season’s set were cut and taken apart, exposing the raw walls of the building, while graphic, powder-blue stools created a sense of polish.
The setting captured the newly installed creative director’s design philosophy: she is seeking a sense of continuity, both adding to and subtracting from Marni’s existing design language. For spring/summer 2027, she leaned into the label’s long-established quirky flair, creating unexpected combinations of leather and nylon, as well as extreme silhouettes such as minuscule skirts and extra-large blazers that carry a hint of Prada. Her reference points varied from the 1960s to the early 2000s; she played with an array of adornments from sequins to metal hardware and embraced a wide colour palette, adding splashes of green and orange to neutral, tailored looks. A series of embellished sack dresses, including a leather number that supermodel Mariacarla Boscono wore to close the show, was among the highlights.
Rogge still has to refine her language for Marni and find her signature look. But in the meantime, she is giving her customers a license to forget the rules and have fun.
marni.com
6.
Tod’s
While conceptualising Tod’s latest collection, Matteo Tamburini thought about personal style and how we acquire it – through the images that we absorb, the films that we watch and our instinct “to recognise beauty in life’s simple pleasures”.
He translated this “deeply Italian” flair for simple pleasures into a series of classic opening looks, featuring Bermuda shorts paired with boyish sweaters and oversized blazers. As the show progressed, he made some bolder statements in the form of perforated leather trench coats and graphic, colour-blocked skirts that combined modernism with a more relaxed, summer attitude.
Models, including artist Conie Vallese, walked confidently down the runway in new tasselled or perforated iterations of the brand’s famous Gommino loafer, which is quickly emerging as the hero shoe of the season. With the right merchandising and communications strategies that take advantage of the momentum and reinforce Tamburini’s compelling vision, the Italian label could generate a new level of interest in its signature shoes next season – and seize a host of opportunities in the ready-to-wear sector too.
tods.com
7.
Gucci
For the setting of his spring/summer 2027 show, Georgian designer Demna transformed a convention centre into a prototype of his vision: a Gucci shop complete with velvet seating and shelves stacked with leather goods. The collection was unveiled in two parts. First a series of monochromatic suits gave way to a preppier array of rugby stripes, white chinos and upturned collars worn by models who could easily be mistaken for business students at Milan’s prestigious Bocconi University. Then triple-stacked black leather belts on lowslung jeans were paired with bomber jackets – an edgier look that evoked Demna’s time at Balenciaga.
Gucci’s womenswear collection continued the theme of prep alla Milanese with jumpers tied around shoulders, more upturned shirt collars and riding boots. It drew on the archetype of the sciura in oversized sunglasses, clutching a monogrammed bag close to her trench coat or crisp white shirt dress. A trajectory towards goth style and youth culture was also apparent, with pagoda shoulders and kohl-rimmed eyes, while the finale consisted of figure-hugging dresses – à la Tom Ford – and glamorous eveningwear to round out the collection. The only thing left for Demna to hope for is that the subliminal messaging of the show’s retail-themed setting helps the Kering-owned brand with sales after a multi-year slump.
gucci.com
8.
Ferragamo
With coffee-coloured suits, burnt-orange balloon trousers and an olive-green crocodile-leather dress, Maximilian Davis’ latest collection for Italian luxury house Ferragamo brimmed with earthy hues and sensuality. The British fashion designer honed in on silhouettes with cinched waists, pencil skirts and military pockets, drawing inspiration from the 1940s when women were entering the workforce. “It was a period when clothing – and its structure – created a certain posture, when the placement of a pocket would dictate how you would stand and behave,” says Davis. “I wanted to take elements of that silhouette and modernise it.”
To offset the sense of propriety, there was no shortage of rubber and sheer fabrics. Transparent trench coats and dresses, as well as diaphanous blouses and trousers, brought a grown-up feel to the collection – a reflection of how Davis is evolving and maturing his vision for the Florentine luxury house.
ferragamo.com
9.
Moschino
Moschino’s newly appointed creative directors Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina are accustomed to swimming against the current. As the co-founders of Milanese brand Sunnei, the duo would often stage high-concept presentations, from crowd surfing at their shows to holding a mock auction in collaboration with Christie’s. For their debut at Moschino, Rizzo and Messina took over the rooftop of a parking garage on the outskirts of Milan. Hundreds of people came streaming in, recreating a busy street.
Then models emerged from the opposite direction. The collection’s palette was vibrant, with trench coats, wafty dresses and bags in an eye-catching citrine. Plenty of intentionally off-putting details also graced the show, such as a cat-shaped clutch and skirts with voluminous derrières – displaying a propensity for the odd that the new creative directors share with the founder, Franco Moschino. It will be worth watching closely over the coming seasons how Rizzo and Messina, with a new platform to riff off, will continue to push the boundaries of what Milan’s fashion scene should represent.
moschino.com
10.
Armani
Under a disco ball in the concrete vault of the Armani/Silos theatre, Silvana Armani presented an eminently wearable spring/summer 2027 collection, which featured monochromatic sets, Bermuda shorts and boxy outerwear. “The jackets recall the clean tailoring of the 1980s,” says Silvana backstage after the show.
Since taking over the role of head of womenswear from her late uncle, Giorgio Armani, in 2025, the designer has been safekeeping the house’s codes while ushering in discreet adjustments, such as introducing cotton to the line-up for the first time. “[Giorgio] didn’t like it saying it wasn’t sophisticated enough, but I love it,” she says. And it wouldn’t be an Armani show without eveningwear: tuxedo dresses, bustier tops and dresses scintillated under bright spotlights. A recurring motif was the butterfly appliqué – perhaps a symbol of metamorphosis as the brand faces its next chapter.
armani.com
