Hotels

You would be forgiven for walking straight past this 18th-century block of self-catered apartments on a bustling street in Baixa: there’s no reception desk or sign above the door, just a discreet doorbell. Once inside, a sweeping staircase leads to 13 airy apartments, each of which is individually styled and and inspired by a famous Lisbon garden: you’ll note the references in the floral Josef Frank wallpapers, framed photographs and cut flowers. Eclectic vintage furniture completes the homely look. Owner and landscape architect Jesús Moraime was keen to ensure that the rooms were furnished with regional products: cabinets are stacked with Bordallo Pinheiro crockery, blankets are sourced from the Serra da Estrela region and rugs come from Alentejo. Every day, staff restock the fridge with fresh breakfast items such as yoghurt, fruit and cake. 

Pilot turned hotelier João Rodrigues claims that he went into the hospitality business by accident. But there’s nothing accidental about this light-drenched hotel that he runs with his wife Andreia, which overlooks the Feira da Ladra. Every fixture has been carefully considered, from the freestanding Portuguese stone baths to the pinewood floors, handmade tiles and artfully placed Hans J Wegner chairs.

According to folklore the 18th-century pile was once home to a princess. Today, after a renovation by architect Manuel Aires Mateus, it’s more of an exercise in muted minimalism than regal excess but the result is no less enchanting. A calming palette of grey, beige and off-white runs throughout the six roomy suites and the cavernous reception area, which is lit by a lunar-like installation by Davide Groppi.

This former private palace, in a residential area opposite the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, is an ode to the 18th century: think original hand-painted azulejos, polished wooden floors, delicate stucco ceilings and open fireplaces. Don’t worry, the overall effect is far from stuffy: the three lounges are peppered with architecture and design books and beyond them is a bright, white-walled library. 

Each of the 12 bedrooms and four pool suites is different. The Old Kitchen Suite centres on an antique copper-roofed fireplace and retains its flagstone floors, while the Oak Suite features floor-to-ceiling oak panels and chesterfields with river views. Between the main rooms and pool suites is a flower-filled tiered courtyard, leading to a petite pool surrounded by a dark-wood deck.