The commute: A morning stroll to the fair with artist Bose Krishnamachari

We take a walk through the Indian port city of Kochi with the co-founder of Kochi-Muziris Biennale and he shares how he grounds himself before a day at the art fair.

Writer

Sophie Monaghan-Coombs

Photographer

Keerthana Kunnath

Every other year, the historic Indian port city of Kochi becomes a buzzy centre of contemporary art with the arrival of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale. During its 16-week run, which for this edition ends in March, artist and co-founder Bose Krishnamachari spends his days ensuring that everything is in order, meeting guests and appreciating the vast array of works on display. Here, we join him on his commute to the fair.

Bose Krishnamachari, co-founder of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale pictured in the city of Kochi, India

Do you have a morning routine?
No, I don’t like to programme my life. It’s so boring if you know what you’re going to do. For me, the most interesting thinking happens in the morning while you travel or read. It’s a time for imagination.

What does your commute look like?
I usually walk to a café, which is just a few minutes away from my apartment, before heading to the fair. As soon as I step out, I pass Nehru Park, a children’s park that comes alive in the mornings with rhythmic music. People gather there to exercise and it’s beautiful to witness. I also pass the Old Harbour Hotel, one of Kochi’s oldest hotels.

During the biennale, what do your mornings look like?
I work closely with the production team and some brilliant artists so most mornings I catch up with those involved in the biennale. We’ll meet between 07.00 and 08.00 at a roadside chaiwala. We’ll have breakfast there, usually idli rice cakes and chutney. Then I’ll go to some of the biennale sites – we have 22, so it takes time to get around them all.

Bose Krishnamachari, co-founder of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, sips a coffee

How would you describe Kochi?
It is a beautiful city. The state of Kerala is known for its literacy rate, which is higher than New York’s. It’s full of well-educated, well-travelled and hard-working people.

Tell us about this year’s biennale.
We thought that it would be fairly small but it has turned out to be one of the largest so far. As well as the venues, there are eight further projects, participation from students from across India, masterclasses and spaces created for Keralite artists.

This is the sixth edition of the biennale. What have you learnt?
That I need to work on the ground. I have to look at Excel sheets every day but, as an artist, I hate them. You need to touch the soil. That’s the way I like to work.
kochimuzirisbiennale.org

Comment
Behind-the-scenes orchestrators of festivals and biennales have to deal with plenty of dry details, from budgeting to logistics. But often the best ideas can be garnered from taking a moment to stand back and soak up the atmosphere.