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City guide: Mexico City

With innovative modern food and new galleries springing up, Mexico’s buzzing capital is calling.

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Some six months after an earthquake destroyed dozens of buildings, the Mexican capital is on the mend. The quake has unearthed the city’s resilience, and residents and businesses have banded together to get their neighbourhoods back up and running. Nowhere is this truer than in La Condesa and Roma, two of the worst-affected areas.

Both remain among the city’s leafiest, safest and most walkable places and are home to many restaurants, bars, cafés and shops. There’s also plenty to see in upmarket Polanco. But, as prices rise, the centre of gravity for young creatives is shifting towards nearby Juárez and it’s here you’ll find a touch more grit – as well as a handful of new galleries and hidden bars.

Mexico City has always whetted appetites and its drinking and dining scene has moved forward. Many newer restaurants focus on the variety of fodder found across the nation, as well as the country’s produce. Indeed, thanks to the country’s two coastlines, there is sumptuous seafood on offer in the landlocked capital.

Here are some ideas to help you uncover the charms of this city of nine million souls – and almost as many diversions.


Illustration of a woman with a backpack reading a map next to a directional street sign.

It’s a sign

Street names tend to be themed by neighbourhood. In Polanco they’re named after great historical thinkers, from Aristotle to Galileo and Tennyson. In Juárez the streets carry the names of major European cities, including London, Marseille, Hamburg and Liverpool.

The Central Library building covered with a decorative mural by Juan O'Gorman, with a plaza and green lawn in front.

1.
Book a trip: Central Library

This university library is covered with a mural by Juan O’Gorman.

Barbería Capital barbershop interior with barbers working on customers at vintage-style stations with large mirrors.

2.
Get a trim: Barbería Capital

A smart barbershop inside the Polanco mall El Palacio de Hierro.

Wooden shelves displaying colorful Mexican crafts including pillows, ceramics, baskets and home goods at Ikal shop.

3.
Well crafted: Ikal

Eduardo Dubost stocks Mexican brands in his Polanco shop.

Orange and red domed structure with arches in a tree-lined public plaza with visitors walking.

4.
Walk this way: Santa María la Ribera

This up-and-coming district is perfect for perambulating.

Interior of Lardo restaurant with bartender and diners at wooden counter beneath shelves of bottles.

5.
Fine fare: Lardo

Mediterranean-inspired restaurant from Elena Reygadas.

Minimalist courtyard with wooden pergola structure, hanging willow branches, concrete flooring, and white walls.

6.
Culture vulture: Kurimanzutto

In a city full of galleries, this is the star.

Display of art books and magazines on wooden circular shelving at Casa Bosques shop.

7.
Off the shelf: Casa Bosques

You’ll find art titles alongside magazines in this Roma Norte shop.

Plated octopus dish at Pujol restaurant with garnish and wine glass on wooden table.

8.
Tuck in: Pujol

Try the octopus in this Polanco institution by chef Enrique Olvera.

Modern interior space with grey curved chair, potted plant, and view into bedroom with white bedding.

9.
Rest your head: Chaya B&B

Nab the master suite in this B&B run by Cristina Mascareñas.

Two people sitting at a high table outside Chiquitito Café with espresso signage visible behind them.

10.
Drink it in: Chiquitito Café

Take a break from the bustle and enjoy a fair-trade coffee.

Images: Omar Luis Olguin

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