Take a walk through Bang Rak, Bangkok’s creative quarter

Bang Rak was once the gateway to Thailand, with foreign ships checking in at its main trading building, Customs House, on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River. Foreigners arrive elsewhere these days and many expats now live in modern high-rises along Sukhumvit Road. But a new generation of Thai makers is moving in and turning this district into a creative quarter. Join Monocle for a wander around the neighbourhood and a chat with some of Bang Rak’s recent arrivals.

Where to stay

While there are plenty of luxury hotels on the riverfront to choose from, we’re pointing you to Beanstalk Bangkok on Surawong Road. The building formerly housed the New Fuji Hotel, which catered to American soldiers on break from their posts in Vietnam. Make sure to check out the small brass plaque on the discrete façade. The property reopened a few years ago as a 57-room boutique accommodation that channels Bang Rak’s Thai-Chinese heritage.

A Chinese shrine to the goddess of the sea is nearby on Charoen Krung Soi 39 while faded red lanterns leftover from the last celebration still hang over side streets. The myriad silversmiths, jewellers and diamond shops that were historically run by Thai-Chinese traders add a faded sparkle. Graffitied metal shutters, in new and old styles, guard shophouses with names in three languages. In English: House of Gems, Heritage Gems and Gem Plaza. But my favourite is Gem Gems.

Breakfast

To beat the heat, we rise early for breakfast and start our day on foot by walking east to the Neilson Hays Library, one of the pillars of Bang Rak. Housed in a neoclassical building, the privately funded English-language library dates to the 19th century. Bangkok coffee chain FIX took over the pleasant courtyard café in April last year and offers eggs on sourdough and fruity yoghurt bowls under the shade of tropical palm trees. 

Neilson Hays backs onto The British Club, another Victorian leftover, which has the best swimming pool in the area. But this is not a Lawrence Osbourne novel and we have a packed itinerary of interesting Thais to meet. Next stop: Si Phraya Road via Naret Road.

Galleries and shopping

The beginnings of Bang Rak’s latest reinvention can be traced to 2025. That’s when gallerist Sutima Sucharitakul relocated her well-regarded independent gallery, Nova Contemporary, to the district. Sucharitakul has built a reputation for representing Thailand’s rising stars, such as Latthapon Korkiatarkul, Vacharanont Sinvaravatn and Prae Pupityastaporn.

Sucharitakul is not the only entrepreneur elevating Si Phraya Road. Three doors down is Glamma Vintage where the owner collects haute couture; this shop-museum is an Aladdin’s cave for anyone working in fashion. Ring ahead of visiting to see if it’s open (by appointment is commonplace here and few places are open on Mondays).

Around the same time that Nova moved to the neighbourhood, Bangkok-based fashion brand Philip Huang relocated to the other end of Si Phraya Road. In a building called Prachoom Chang – which translates to “the meeting of makers” – Philip Huang took over the former office and printing press of Daily News, one of Thailand’s most popular news outlets. The label transformed the space into a flagship shop, office and natural dyeing workshop, which features vats created by the country’s biggest contemporary artist, Pinaree Sanpitak. Also in the building is the Thai creative Channatip Chanvipava and Ivan Pun’s Burmese furniture brand, Paribawga. Gathering like-minded friends together to take over a large space seems to be somewhat of a trend in Bang Rak. 

Lunch

Now that we’ve explored Prachoom Chang, we’ll get a bite at Samlor (lunch is only served on weekends) on the corner of Charoen Krung, Bangkok’s first paved road. Samlor’s elevated take on Thai street food is hinted at by the metal three-wheeled rickshaw hanging above the entrance. Our dinner menu will have plenty of meat, so for lunch, try the catch of the day, which often comes from the warm waters off the country’s southern coast. If you’re visiting during the week, head along Charoen Krung to Kick! Chop! Slice!. This pizza joint adds a Thai flavour to its New York-style doughs by using local ingredients, such as Isan sausage.

With our stomachs full, we’ll take a short stroll around the corner to Kitt Ta Khon. The craft studio opened its first shop in 2024 to showcase its handwoven furniture pieces: armchairs, benches and other creations wrapped in colourful beads, rope and string. The Sukpha stools can be customised on the second floor and bubbled wrapped for the flight back home. Carry-on only? There are plenty of bamboo fans, reed table mats and small ceramics on the shelves too.

Kitt Ta Khon is a few steps away from the mighty Chao Phraya River, which has been enjoying its own renaissance this century. The opening of Capella and Four Seasons in 2020 pulled visitors back to Bangkok’s main waterway, which has been helmed for 150 years by the peerless Mandarin Oriental. This momentum shows no sign of letting up with a handful of major openings coming soon. The former Customs House is set to reopen as a 75-key luxury hotel under The Langham’s banner; the result of an elaborate engineering project to elevate the subsided heritage building by one storey. Nearly all of the focus, from the rooms to the restaurants, is on the river view. The yet-unnamed bar with its own pier shows promise for future cocktails in 2027 but, for now, it’s time for an after lunch pick-me-up. We’re are eyeing a perch further inland.

Coffee

From the main Charoen Krung Road, follow the route of Charoen Krung Alley 43 in the direction of Surawong Road as it snakes through the backstreet garages, launderettes and shophouses of this residential neighbourhood. Cross over to Decho Road and order a coffee (anything from the menu with ice) at Monochrome. 

Decho Road is another Bang Rak street on the rise. The end of last year saw two sets of friends from fashion and film take over the former House of Chao antique shop. Fashion brand Nong Rak has taken the ground floor for its first shop, selling limited-edition creations from Bangkok-made silk alongside vintage clothing. The upper floor of the building has been transformed into Sala Saneha, a cinema, wine bar and lounge. There are several screenings each night ranging from Thai films to US indies and European releases. Book a ticket for the late show and come back after dinner down the street. 

Dinner

Aunglo by Yangrak is a casual restaurant serving Thai classics cooked on a grill. It moved to a larger spot on the corner of Si Lom Road last year and its barbecue pork ribs are a must try. Room for dessert? Order the Khanom Krok Brûle for a contemporary twist on the traditional coconut pudding.

This part of Bang Rak is set to get a major boost in a few years’ time when the new Hatai development removes its hoardings. The Thomas Heatherwick-designed mixed-use project is currently under construction on the site of the original Narai Hotel – a legendary 1960s institution with 500 rooms and a revolving restaurant that was once a celebrity hangout and the tallest building on Si Lom Road. Hatai, currently set to open in late 2027, will include Bangkok’s first Six Senses hotel and the redesigned Narai Hotel. Until then, order a glass of wine at Sala Saneha, find a snug seat and settle in for some well-curated cinema. We’ll end our day back at the Beanstalk.