Bernese Oberland  25

With charming villages and breathtaking views, the Bernese Oberland is a cultured destination for the discerning traveller.

Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland region brims with natural beauty and cultural delights, from the dramatic peaks of the Jungfrau Region to the chic excursions of Gstaad and the serene valleys of Adelboden, Lenk and Kandersteg. Whether hiking verdant trails, indulging in fine restaurants or enjoying scenic railway journeys, a wealth of new experiences awaits.

Our guide was created in association with the following partners:

Jungfrau Region Tourism
Tourism Adelboden- Lenk-Kandersteg
Gstaad Holiday Region
Jungfrau Railways

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01

JUNGFRAU MARATHON
Get fit, Alpine style
JUNGFRAU REGION

September is all about running in the Jungfrau Region. The main event is the Jungfrau Marathon, which is billed as the world’s most beautiful – and rightly so. About 4,000 international runners start in Interlaken and climb to Eigergletscher at 2,320 metres. Not in peak condition? Shorter races are staged the day before.

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02

FONDUE BACKPACKS
Melt on a long walk
GSTAAD

Forget trail mix: take your hiking lunch to the next level with a fondue backpack. For as little as CHF18 per person, many of the region’s molkereien (dairy shops) will lend you a rucksack filled with the essential kit for whipping up an al fresco fondue wherever your feet take you. Aim for eight extra-large caquelons – kitschy but fun fondue-pot-shaped picnic booths – placed at scenic locations near Gstaad, Schönried, Saanen and beyond. You can use the hike back to work off all that excess cheese.

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03

RUEDIHUS
Eat a Bernese classic
KANDERSTEG

Landgasthof Ruedihus offers traditional Swiss cuisine in a charming, historic house. The three rustic dining rooms serve a cosy fondue, raclette or rösti speciality, lovingly prepared using regional ingredients.

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04 

GLACIER 3000
Scale new heights
GSTAAD

At Col du Pillon near Gstaad, Glacier 3000 is a thrill-seeker’s winter wonderland, named after the altitude of its peaks. Its slopes are the longest in the region, allowing passholders to streak down from Dôme at 3,000m to Reusch at 1,300m (the daunting Black Wall slope is one of the steepest in the world). But skis aren’t necessary to get your adrenalin fix here: take the cable car from the Col du Pillon pass up to Scex Rouge peak, where you will find tobogganing slopes, dog-sled rides and a restaurant designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta.

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05

SKIING
Slope off downhill
JUNGFRAU REGION

With three mountains and more than 200km of ski areas, the Jungfrau Region is a winter sports dreamland. The serene town of Wengen comes alive every January when it hosts the infamous Lauberhorn downhill, a steep incline for the brave (or foolhardy). For a more relaxed experience, explore the smoother trails around Kleine Scheidegg and Männlichen. Most of the pistes are 1,800 metres or higher, so your views will be spectacular regardless.

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06

SWISS OPEN GSTAAD
Watch pro tennis
GSTAAD

Swiss Open Gstaad dates back to 1915 and the tournament’s clay courts host top ATP pros every summer: Roger Federer made his debut here in 1998. The 2025 event starts on 13 July and tickets go on sale at the end of January.

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07

MÄNNLICHEN
Get in peak condition
JUNGFRAU REGION

The Royal Ride cable car is a majestic way to ascend from the village of Wengen to the Männlichen peak. After a bracing photo opp on the open-air balcony, pick up the Panorama Trail to Kleine Scheidegg, a leisurely, largely downhill walk through green pastures.

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08 

BIG PINTENFRITZ
Go for a big run
JUNGFRAU REGION

When the snow starts to come down and the powder is perfect, sporty types head for the Big Pintenfritz, which once laid claim to being the longest sledging run in the world. We say “sporty” because the gondola ride to the First, at 2,166 metres above sea level, is the easy part. You must then hoist your sledge for more than two hours along the Bachalpsee to Faulhorn. It’s worth it for the picturesque hour-long, 1,600-metre descent.

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09

LAKE THUN
Make a day of it
JUNGFRAU REGION

With a day in the Bernese Oberland, you are blessed with options. Start with a morning hike through lazy green pastures near River Aare before climbing aboard a boat cruise from Interlaken West that sails around Neuhaus nature reserve and majestic Lake Thun – the region’s largest lake and one best seen from its clear blue waters.

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10

GSTAAD MENUHIN FESTIVAL
Listen within tent
GSTAAD

The late classical violinist Yehudi Menuhin was one of the area’s most illustrious residents and founded the Gstaad Menuhin Festival in 1957. The themed annual event attracts thousands of visitors to dozens of musical performances between July and September, including symphony concerts in Gstaad’s purpose-built festival tent.

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11

1910 GOURMET
Taste the difference
JUNGFRAU REGION

The haute-cuisine scene is thriving in the village of Grindelwald, where refined culinary excellence comes with a side order of stunning mountain vistas. Leading the charge is 1910 Gourmet by Hausers, a Michelin-starred gem in the Hotel Belvedere. With just six tables, the restaurant is an intimate setting to savour the artistry of head chef Dávid Imre Rózsa. His menu showcases meticulously sourced local ingredients, transformed through highly technical cooking into modern masterpieces. Highlights include alp pike sashimi, which sees fresh local pike perch transformed through lacto-fermentation and dry-aging before each delicate slice is adorned with vibrant garden flowers and mountain herbs. With limited seats, book ahead to secure your taste of this Alpine gastronomical experience.

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12  

LAUENESEE
Dive straight in
GSTAAD

The Gstaad Holiday Region boasts some of the most beautiful lakes in Switzerland – but Lauenensee takes some beating. It is really two lakes in the heart of the Gelten-Iffigen nature reserve: a stunning blend of waterfalls, forests, alpine pastures and floodplains. Head to the smaller lake’s Restaurant Lauenensee to dive in from the pontoons or rent a rowing boat. Local park rangers are on call to give tips for the best hiking routes around the larger lake.

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13   

MOLKERI GSTAAD
Dig deep for dairy
GSTAAD

Molkerei Gstaad, a dairy shop open since 1931 and run by the town’s “king of cheese”, René Ryser, has a trick up its sleeve: guests can visit its candle-lit grotto which stores 3,000 wheels of Alpine cheeses, including Berner Alpkäse and Hobelkäse. “These cheeses are from about 50 different producers, all from the region’s mountain pastures,” says Ryser. Listen out for the soundtrack accompanying your grotto visit; it includes a rousing recording of “Amazing Grace”, performed on an Alphorn.

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14

LAUTERBRUNNEN
Watch the falls
JUNGFRAU REGION

You would be hard pressed to visit all the waterfalls in Berner Oberland on a single visit. There are 72 in the Lauterbrunnen Valley alone. Check out Trümmelbach’s 10 thundering glacier-fed waterfalls (inside a mountain and accessible via underground lift) or head to Staubbach waterfall to witness a free-falling, 297-metre-high beauty. For a full immersion, pull out your hiking poles and trek from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg with the sound of the falls as your soundtrack. This is, after all, a valley that inspired the author JRR Tolkien – the inspiration for your own literary masterwork might be just around the corner.

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15

NORDWAND BRÄU 3790
Raise a glass
JUNGFRAU REGION

Leipzig-born Steffen Seidel is a painter, waiter and master brewer. His Grindelwald microbrewery, Nordwand Bräu 3790 (named after the height in metres of the Eiger Mountain’s north face), has been making four types of beer – from pale ale to unfiltered lager – since 2015. “When I came here, everyone said that there was no local beer,” says Seidel. “I thought, I can do that.” Made with the purest mountain water, his beer is available in the village’s regional produce shop, Eigerness Der Laden.

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16

CHOLEREN GORGE
Immerse in nature
ADELBODEN

The Choleren Gorge captivates visitors with its dramatic cliffs, cascading waters and rock formations. Accessible via a scenic one-hour hike from Adelboden, the 100-metre-long gorge is best viewed from its dramatic base. Wooden walkways and staircases also wind along the short length, revealing natural water mills and twists carved by nature’s power. Extend your adventure nearby at Pochtenkessel, where two rivers converge in a striking natural basin. Finish with a rejuvenating plunge in the Jungbrunnen pool below the gorge.

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17

CAFÉ CULTURE
Roast in the snow
JUNGFRAU REGION

Café culture is alive and kicking in Grindelwald. Eigerbean’s Marco Münch roasts coffee beans using a Stronghold S9X. “I’m one of only two people in Switzerland who have this machine,” he says proudly. Eigerbean sells whole beans and also serves single-origin drip coffees and perfectly balanced flat whites. Down the road at Qraftwerk, wife-and-husband team Nadja and Oliver Fuhrer also serve coffee – but it’s really all about the baked goods. Oliver started out making energy bars for a bike trip to Spain, which morphed into a fully-fledged business selling croissants, quiche, marshmallow-and-praline Schokoküsse and much more.

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18

SPORTZENTRUM GSTAAD
Curl up post-swim
GSTAAD

Too cold to take a dip in a nearby lake? The majestic swimming hall of Sportzentrum Gstaad has you covered. Bask in the warmth of the gigantic wooden arches, designed by architecture firm Ernst & Schweizer in the 1970s and, between laps, enjoy the spectacular views of the snowy peaks through the bay windows. Post-swim, indulge in the wellness centre’s many saunas and steam baths or relax in the bubble jets of the heated outdoor pool area. If your ski suit took up all your luggage space, don’t fret: swimwear is available for rent or purchase.

At sundown, it’s time for a game of curling, the Olympic sport that is played on ice sheets and feels a bit like the French game of petanque – albeit with furious brushing thrown in for good measure. Anyone can rent curling shoes, grab a broom and play a few ends with their friends before heading to the Curl Bar, which overlooks the sheets. Mingle with members of Curling Club Gstaad for tips on refining your game and order from a selection of beers and reasonably priced wines. “We host the Swiss national championships here in March, which will determine who goes to the Winter Olympics,” says club president Stefan Karnusian. If you’re new to curling, booking an instructor at the front desk a day in advance is mandatory.

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19

SIMMEN FALLS
Follow the meltwater
LENK

The Simmen Falls, located in the Simmental Valley, is a spectacular sight. Begin your hike at Restaurant Simmenfälle, where a wide path leads to a great view of the rushing falls from the Barbara Bridge. Seasoned hikers can continue to Alp Rezliberg and the Seven Fountains – the source of the Simme river.

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20

THE BRECON
Refine your stay
ADELBODEN

Built in 1912, this chalet turned guesthouse exudes timeless charm, offering a refined alternative to the rustic feel of Adelboden’s other spots. “My family has been coming to Adelboden since I can remember,” co-owner Grant Maunder tells Monocle. “I want guests to feel that sense of staying in a generous home.”

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21

ARVENSEELI
Get active
KANDERSTEG

Set in a cluster high above the mountain town of Kandersteg, the three Arvenseeli lakes provide the backdrop to one of Switzerland’s most underrated waterfront hikes (during summer months only – the lakes are formed from meltwater). Take the cable car from the valley to Sunnbüel and embark on a leisurely hike up through the Swiss stone pines. Less than an hour into your walk, three gleaming pools will be revealed, their clear blue waters a bountiful reward for your (relatively minimal) exertion. Rarely is such a view so easily won in this part of the world. Fed by meltwater from the glaciers and snow high above, the lakes remain icy cool and crystalline, even in the warmer months. Peel off and go for a dip, if you dare.

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22

ERLEBNISBAD WALLBACH
Relax in warm waters
LENK

The soothing 34C warmth of the whirlpool at Erlebnisbad Wallbach is the perfect setting for relaxation. Surrounded by stunning mountainous scenery, the bubbling water revitalises tired muscles. With its consistent temperature, the whirlpool is a year-round perk – ideal after a long hike, a day on the slopes or simply to unwind. Experience tranquillity and the unique sensation of recharging in the heart of the Alps.

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23

FIRST FLYER
Take a flyer
JUNGFRAU REGION

From Grindelwald, it’s a 25-minute ride by cable car over to First, a minor summit on the slopes of the Schwarzhorn. From here you could choose to take the First Flyer, a speedy and fully-harnessed zipwire which covers a distance of 800 metres with a potential top speed of more than 80km/h. Monocle prefers the epic feat of engineering that is the Cliff Walk, which allows the opportunity to ponder the magnificent Bernese Oberland peaks from a metal walkway that hugs the rock’s surface and isn’t for those afraid of heights (our advice: don’t look down). At one point during the walk, you must manoeuvre your body around rocks that jut out from the cliff and traverse a bridge section that bounces ever so slightly as you cross it. Not that we were afraid, mind you.

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24

HOHLIEBESTÜBLI
Taste seasonal goodness
ADELBODEN

Andy Schranz and his team at Hohliebestübli have been delighting guests since 2003. This 300-year-old chalet restaurant sits just 30 guests, creating an intimate and welcoming atmosphere. Great importance is placed on top quality regional ingredients. “I draw inspiration from the changing seasons and regionality to create a unique menu,” says Schranz. Dishes include Hereford beef ribeye with grilled vegetables and oven-baked potatoes, all lovingly prepared on a nostalgic wood-fired stove.

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25

DREI BERGE
Sip a secret cocktail
JUNGFRAU REGION

The bar at the Drei Berge (or “Three Mountains”) is the place to be. Owned by Parisian entrepreneur Ramdane Touhami since 2023, it’s safe to say it stands out from the pack with its painted green exterior and red-and-white striped shutters. Touhami knows a thing or two about good design, having overhauled the menswear department at Liberty and reinvigorated the beauty brand Officine Universelle Buly 1803.

Drei Berge is nestled in the car-free village of Mürren (accessible by gondola or train), which has just 400 year-round residents yet attracts everyone from writers to hikers during the warmer months. In winter, you can literally ski to the door and enjoy après-ski on the deck, where Swiss army blankets are available if it’s chilly. Sip a “Heidi’s Secret” (a twist on a gin and tonic) or warm yourself with a steaming glass of gluhwein and marvel at the spectacular views. “You have the feeling of being fully surrounded by mountains here,” says Drei Berge’s guest service operations manager Stephan Pereira Procacci. “It’s unique.”

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JUNGFRAU RAILWAYS
Head to the top

In the Bernese Alps, distances that appear short on a map can end up taking longer to cross due to the rugged terrain. At times, certain roads simply cease to exist. Which is where the ever-pioneering Jungfrau Railways comes in. The company traces its roots to 1893 when Swiss industrialist Adolf Guyer-Zeller, aka “the railway king”, came up with the idea of taming the Eiger and Mönch mountains by running a cogwheel train track inside the rockface. It was a gruelling and long task to finally get all the way up to Jungfraujoch – hampered by deaths among the Italian labourers during rock blasting, financial problems and labour strikes. “Construction work took 16 years and the whole project was done by hand without machines,” says Jungfrau Railways’ Kathrin Naegeli. “Sometimes morethan 300 people lived and worked at Eigergletscher Station.” When the work was finally completed in 1912, Jungfraujoch became the highest train station in Europe, standing 3,454 metres above sea level.

The railway today continues to push the limits of what can be done with mountain terrain, under the tutelage of director Urs Kessler who has been in charge for more than 16 years. The showpiece trip is undoubtedly from Grindelwald up to Jungfraujoch – the “Top of Europe”. It only takes about 45 minutes thanks to the first leg now being in a cable car called the Eiger Express that launched in 2020 and seats 26 people. (You can still travel the old way via a slower train from Grindelwald Grund to Kleine Scheidegg). Marvel at the feat of engineering and the huge pylons that support the car as you gaze down at snow-dusted trees on the way to the Eigerletscher station.

From here, transfer to the cogwheel train that enters a rock tunnel for the remainder of the trip, with a quick five-minute stop at the Eismeer station to admire the views and marvel at the tunnelling expertise of the railway line’s makers.

Alongside the high-altitude weather research station, there is plenty to enjoy on arrival, from shops and restaurants to ice sculptures. But our favourite part is heading outside to marvel at the Unesco World Heritage Aletsch glacier and snowy peaks that glint in the sunshine as they jut above the clouds at the Sphinx Terrace and Plateau viewing galleries. Be sure to wrap up warm: it was a balmy -14C when Monocle visited.

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