Edo Tokyo Kirari Monocle
Old meets new in Nihonbashi, where long-standing businesses combine rich traditions and a taste of contemporary life. Specialising in everything from seaweed to sweet confections, these four pioneering businesses stand the test of time.
NINBEN
Fermentation is an art form for this katsuobushi specialist, which aims to raise the profile of dashi culture
Fish
In the world of Japanese cuisine, hongare-katsuobushi sets the benchmark for dried skipjack tuna of the highest quality. The ageing process spans about six months and involves at least four cycles of adding mould and sun-drying the smoked fish fillets. This process yields premium results, producing characteristically deep flavours and rich aromas.
This traditional technique is at the heart of Ninben, which began selling katsuobushi and other dried fish in Nihonbashi in 1699. More than three centuries later, the company’s flagship shop offers a range of flakes with subtly different characteristics, along with dashi-based sauces and seasonings.
In addition to preserving these authentic flavours, Ninben takes great pride in introducing hongare-katsuobushi and dashi to an ever-growing audience. The company has shared its techniques and knowledge to raise the quality standards of katsuobushi for the industry, while opening dine-in spaces including a standing dashi bar and a restaurant where the broth takes centre stage. And with a mouthwatering aroma as its calling card, Ninben continues to hook new customers.
EITARO SOHONPO
Showcasing the timeless appeal of Edo-style confectionery, intertwined with the culture and folklore of the Japanese capital
Sweets
During the late 1850s, a crimson-coloured candy rose to prominence in Tokyo. Cut and pinched into small triangles, the popular sweet became known by the pun-loving public as umeboshi-ame, a reference to the pickled plums whose shape and colour they so closely resembled. The candy also became a popular souvenir in the Meiji era, particularly among geisha who used the candy as a shiny lipstick base. Brown sugar, matcha and black tea flavours followed, placing the candy’s maker, Eitaro Sohonpo, firmly on the map.
The family-run company continues to produce umeboshi-ame to the original recipe, along with a range of Edo-style confectionery. Many of its products are intertwined with local culture and folklore, connecting to the area’s history as a bustling hub for commerce and entertainment, along with the food culture that it nurtured.
Shortly after the doors to Eitaro’s flagship branch open, regulars can be found selecting freshly made wagashi, while tourists peruse the colourful packaging. In the in-store cafe, veteran artisan Seiji Aoki makes kintsuba, another longstanding favourite. Shaped like a tsuba (the handguard of a sword) the sweets are made by wrapping red-bean paste in a thin flour coating and then gently frying in sesame oil. It’s a process that Aoki has honed to perfection over the years.
More than 170 years after starting out as a street stall next to Nihonbashi Bridge, Eitaro continues to develop its confectionery lineup, acquiring new knowledge by inquiring about the old.
NIHONBASHI SEMBIKIYA-SOHONTEN
Musk melons, queen strawberries and an abundance of other premium fruit await at this specialty shop
Fruit
At Sembikiya-Sohonten’s fruit parlour in Nihonbashi Muromachi, every parfait tells a story. The signature musk melon in the special parfait possesses a rich flavour and subtle sweetness resulting from its careful cultivation in Shizuoka, while seasonal accents may include persimmon, strawberry and shine muscat. Multiple layers of ice cream, sorbet and syrup are arranged in perfect harmony.
The origins of Sembikiya-Sohonten can be traced back to 1834, when Benzo Ohshima set up a fruit stall in Ningyocho. Transporting peaches, watermelons and other produce from his hometown via waterways, he built a following and gradually shifted his focus to premium fruits. As the Edo period came to an end and the influence of foreign culture grew, the company opened the doors of its first restaurant in 1868. Presenting fruit in a new light, the menu featured fruit sandwiches, parfaits and mango curry, setting the scene for the development of dishes made with the premium produce of a specialty shop.
Joining the fruit parlour at Sembikiya-Sohonten’s Nihonbashi Honten flagship, not far from where the original stall once stood, is a café and gallery-like main shop. The latter is based on the concept of a fruit museum and the top-grade produce is sourced from Japan and beyond. Sembikiya-Sohonten’s focus on quality extends to ensuring that produce is stored, packaged and procured in optimal condition. Each order leaves with a quality guarantee, reflecting the company’s commitment to delivering the best fruit in the world.
YAMAMOTO NORITEN
Committed to delivering dried seaweed of the highest quality, this historic purveyor developed a strict grading system
A warm welcome at Yamamoto Noriten’s flagship shop in Nihonbashi Muromachi
NORI
When it comes to grading nori (dried seaweed), Masamochi Shimizu searches for the perfect melt-in-your-mouth texture. As Yamamoto Noriten’s dedicated full-time grading technician, his reviews cover flavour, colour, form and lustre, before assigning a rank that determines which products the seaweed will be used for.
Founded in 1849, Yamamoto Noriten was an early innovator within the industry, developing a strict in-house grading system during the company’s formative years. This thorough approach, paired with the release of culture-shifting products such as seasoned nori, laid the foundations for a company synonymous with seaweed. At the flagship shop in Nihonbashi Muromachi, the focus on quality extends from the products to the beautifully designed packages and immaculate wrapping. Nori is also toasted in-store, filling the space with a delicious aroma.
A dine-in space is set to open in 2024. Fresh temaki sushi will be on the menu, bringing the signature nori to the fore.
