OPINION / ED STOCKER
Divine inspiration
It was a hot day in the southern hemisphere when I first visited the Atlántida church just inland from Uruguay’s Atlantic coast at the end of 2019. There was no one around and we had to find someone to come and unlock the doors to let us in. But there was something immediately captivating about the curvaceous structure built entirely from red bricks between 1958 and 1960. The church was Eladio Dieste’s first commission. He might not be a household name to anyone apart from serious design nuts but that may soon change: Unesco has just added Atlántida to its World Heritage list.
The remarkable thing about Dieste was the elasticity of form he achieved using bricks. Though they are seen as a lowly material by some, he rendered them in a beautiful and entirely modern way to masterfully create wide-spanning, vaulted roofs. He was also sensitive to the power of light: at Atlántida, for example, the combination of stained glass and recessed windows makes stepping inside the church an almost otherworldly experience. And yet Dieste, who died in 2000, wasn’t even an architect. How many engineers end up becoming better known than the architects who worked on the buildings alongside them?
I travelled around Uruguay visiting Dieste’s works with his architect grandson Agustín for a Monocle article (see issue 136), taking in Atlántida and everything from a shopping centre to a grain silo. Let’s hope that the Unesco accolade will eventually encourage more people to pay them a visit. Who knows, in the near future people might visit Uruguay for more than Punta del Este or asado. State and tourism bodies should work together to promote Dieste internationally within a framework of architecture-based tourism. Today his ideas of functionality for all without reneging on aesthetics are more important than ever.