OPENER / ANDREW TUCK
Place in the sun
When you ask people in Mallorca where they are going on holiday this summer, they will often name a destination that’s little more than an hour’s drive from their home. They are renting a house at the beach, spending a couple of weeks on their boat with the kids or even just staying put. They may even have a second home up in the cooler mountain air of, say, Valldemossa, where they will retreat to. A few adventurous ones reveal that they are off to a neighbouring Balearic island for a change of scenery. But not that many.
Indeed, when we have asked people there for their views on other places to visit in the Balearics, they often beat a hasty conversational retreat; many claim to have only ever ventured to the neighbouring isles a handful of times. If they go anywhere, it’s more likely to be Madrid or London but not now in the peak of summer. In short, they simply recognise that they live in a pretty good place. And as one person said to us, “What’s also brilliant is that if we forget to pack anything, I can just nip home and get it.”
Perhaps that’s part of Mallorca’s success. It’s physically small and somehow in its heart and ambition quite big too. There are about 1.2 million inhabitants, some 400,000 in the capital Palma, and that’s enough to support good cultural institutions and lots of industries that have nothing to do with tourism. It feels like its own self-contained nation.
We were back there last week and on Saturday drove east across the island, out past red-soiled fields as redolent of Africa as Europe. Past farms with their old-school wind turbines. Through towns that become dozy at weekends, the shutters on shops all down like sleepy eyelids. And on to dust-swirled lanes. Then, finally, to a spot not far from the beach of S’Amarador.
My dithering meant that it was already mid-afternoon by the time that shoes were slipped off and sand felt underfoot. But judging by the other people who were also snaking down to the beach through the breeze-shimmied pines, this was a good time to arrive, when the sun’s heat had abated a little.
From a position under our umbrella I found myself surveying the other beachgoers. There were lots of extended Spanish families with elaborate shading set-ups under which beers were being drunk and jamón sandwiches constructed. Their kids darted to the water with snorkels, jumped on laughing mums, enticed dads to play chase: happy summer moments being etched into minds that would shape these children forever.
At the water’s edge, young men were playing with a beach bats and balls yet somehow never whacking anyone in the face. It seemed a pursuit more collaborative than competitive. There was some canoodling (not me, I hasten to add). Bookworms sat in their low-slung beach chairs. I thought of my parents’ unease with stripping off on a beach and of visits to the seaside in the UK when you would most likely end up dodging the rain. There’s something about growing up in this kind of sun that gets into the soul. I was a little envious of these heat-touched Mallorquin nippers being filled with easy confidence. As outsiders you have to recognise that while a language can be learned and customs understood, you will never be at home like this. You need to have been shaped by the place. But who cares? Even “observer status” is magical.
We lingered on the beach until almost 19.00 and although many people had already left by then, some stragglers were still arriving. I’d felt a bit sluggish in the previous days but as we retraced our steps through the trees, I felt the healing benefits of a Spanish beach. So the next day we came back to the very same spot to take to the water again, already allowing our world here to contract and find routine. Not feeling a need to always venture to new places. Who knows, perhaps we might just fit in after all.