WORDS WITH… / PAUL SMITH, LONDON
From stripes to Strip
Paul Smith didn’t plan to work in fashion but when an accident shattered his dream of being a professional cyclist, he turned his hand to design. Building a reputation with his namesake label and its signature multicoloured stripes, Smith soon became a pillar of British design and has spent the past 50 years working on fashion, furniture and industrial projects around the world. His latest project is the development of a concept car called Strip with Mini and BMW. To find out more about the vehicle and his approach to design, we caught up with Smith for this week’s episode of Monocle on Design.
Can you share with us a few details about the look and feel of the car?
The starting point was the Mini shape that’s currently in production. It’s good so I didn’t want to change that at all. I left the body as raw steel, the way it comes after pressing, and it’s got lots of little marks and scratches – it’s not perfect at all. I’ve put one simple layer of clear lacquer on it. When you look at it from the street you may think, “Well, what’s he done?” because it just looks like a silver car. But on closer inspection you’ll find that it’s got these characterful little imperfections on it. It’s like your best pair of jeans or the suede jacket you inherited from your father that has little scuffs and marks on it.
Given that it’s a concept car, can you tell us more about your approach to thinking conceptually? What does it mean to you?
I’m quite well known for my lateral way of thinking and not going down the obvious route: compare my shop in Los Angeles, which is a bright-pink box on Melrose Avenue, to my shop in my hometown [Nottingham], which is in a building erected in 1736. The fact that we’ve had this wonderful longevity as a company, independent of a big group, is often down to how I’m always challenging myself and saying, “What if?” I also work in a [space that’s] full of things that are inspiring. I describe it as a room that’s not “childish” – because it’s full of toys and objects and is kitsch and beautiful – but “childlike”. Being childlike is where you’ve not been cluttered with education and experience so you haven’t got strong reference points from things you’ve witnessed. You’ve got this freedom just to say, “Why don’t we try that?” or, “Let’s have a go.”
How does this affect your approach to business?
My business has always been built on a balance of, on the one hand, selling a very large quantity of beautiful, simple navy blue suits and polo shirts and having shops in the Marais in Paris, Soho in London and Soho in New York; and, on the other hand, innovation and attention and fashion shows twice a year in Paris, with a beautiful shop in Albemarle Street in Mayfair and the pink shop in Los Angeles. So it’s very much about having the balance of paying the rent with more commercial things and then keeping the image high and doing special things that are quite self-indulgent, even though my financial director will always question them and say, “What’s the point?” But the point is that it’s your future because nobody cares how good you used to be.
To hear more from Paul Smith, listen to this week’s edition of ‘Monocle on Design’ on Monocle 24.