I spent the week at Dubai’s World Government Summit (WGS), an event with the simple ambition of encouraging better governance and global solidarity. It ran for four days, several thousand people attended and spontaneous conversations erupted all over the place. Here are 10 takeaways.
1
The UAE has leveraged its geographical location to become a place where the Global South can feel at ease. African presidents and prime ministers came out in force: at one point, we stood behind Rwanda’s Paul Kagame in the coffee queue. A banker of note told us that the WGS gave voice to these leaders and didn’t try to drag them into disputes between the superpowers. Perhaps that is why the Ukraine war was barely mentioned.
2
The UAE showed itself to be at ease welcoming people with disparate views onto the stage. Where else would you have found both Tony Blair and former Fox News host Tucker Carlson (not, to be stressed, at the same time)?
3
Many Western governments didn’t show up. Perhaps they felt that the presence of Turkey’s Recep Tayyip Erdogan or India’s Narendra Modi was insignificant.
4
There’s an impressive new generation of Emirati leaders. My colleague Luke and I spent some time with Omar Sultan Al Olama, the UAE’s 34-year-old minister of state for artificial intelligence and a rising star. He has helped to make Dubai a key part of this technological revolution.
5
We had an invitation for a royal audience. I might have talked a bit too much.
6
I was at the WGS to present a series of discussions on the future of the city. I was struck by how even people on the front lines of climate-change battles spoke with the positivity and ambition that just seem to come with being in Dubai. A visiting adviser to the UAE government said that in the past he had told people here to emulate Singapore but that they no longer needed Asian role models: this was now the case-study city to visit. (Though when the city ground to a halt after a deluge of rain, it became clear that challenges remain.)
7
Traditional dress is a good look. I learned that you can tell whether someone is Emirati, Qatari, Saudi or Kuwaiti from their thobe and headwear. (The Kuwaiti version has a collar and an extra piece of cloth as a side insert – “It’s so much more comfortable,” I was informed.) People looked sharp and, endearingly, several times I spotted men asking a friend or colleague to help them perfect the angle or draping of their headdress.
8
I picked up some good phrases. An Emirati friend explained that Dubai had changed so fast that much of even its recent past had been erased. He called this loss “urban dementia”. Then, on one of my panels, Kotchakorn Voraakhom, a Thai landscape architect and the founder of the Porous City Network, said that people in Bangkok had become so used to floods – submerged one day, on dry land the next – that they had adapted to be “urban crocodiles”. I will be stealing both phrases.
9
A presidential entourage is a spectacle. It moves with a swagger that any runway model would hope to master.
10
Emiratis have pulled off the rare trick of being intensely modern while holding on to the things that define them. Their culture has survived the light-speed urban change because it resides not in cement but inside them. A senior diplomat told me that his late father had been a pearl diver before the UAE even existed. But as he talked about family and duty, it was evident that the values of his father’s time remained undimmed in him. One tradition that many spoke about was the majlis, a place to sit and discuss. The majlis is a tool still used by government, businesses and families. Another friend told us that he went to his parents’ majlis every week without fail, along with 30 other relatives. We were invited to two of these special gatherings – one in the desert, another around a fire. At both, people from around the world were made to feel welcome, put at ease and encouraged to share their views. It’s a remarkable social asset. I find it hard to imagine anyone being lonely here or short of contacts. Those conversations will linger with me – and not just because the fire left my clothes smelling like smoked haddock.