For a city that is so well designed – and filled with design-minded individuals – it’s a shame that Amsterdam’s urban designers haven’t come up with a solution for its bike-packed streets. The city has long been revered as the world’s capital of cycling and held up as a prime example of a metropolis that prioritises people-friendly transport.
Today, however, its streets are a tangled jungle of bike frames piled on top of each other, many of which can be found at the bottom of the canals or abandoned on bridges. On a recent city break, I found its central neighbourhoods almost impossible to navigate. Waiting for my flight home at Schiphol airport, I couldn’t help but feel relieved that I no longer had to dodge a peloton of two-wheeled racers every time I wanted to cross the street. Cyclists rule Amsterdam’s roads, with bike lanes taking up as much space as those for cars. Meanwhile, pedestrians are squeezed onto narrow footpaths.
Many bike riders seem proud of their utter disregard of traffic lights, people walking or even common decency, often tailgating those in their path and never slowing down – parents with prams and the elderly, be warned. Over three days, I heard too many bike bells being rung passive-aggressively at people who were simply attempting to enjoy a stroll through the Negen Straatjes or Jordaan neighbourhoods.
It begs the question: in the same way that the city’s roads have been carved up to make way for bike lanes, should cyclists in the city now be forced to make more room for pedestrians? Or should cars be removed entirely for the benefit of those on two feet or two wheels? Either way, the current system is unsustainable. Perhaps the Dutch capital should look to Copenhagen and Barcelona, two cities with equally impressive bike infrastructure, for some urban design tips. The city could be improved by a little more pedestrianisation. At its best, a public space is just that: public, for all to share and use. Amsterdam could do with a reminder.
This column features in Monocle’s March issue, which is available on all good newsstands now. For more news and analysis, subscribe to Monocle today.