Monocle Weekend
Edition: Saturday

We make the most of the sunshine by considering the best spots for alfresco cocktails in Nice and making plans for an epicurean adventure in Ljubljana. There are also some summer tracks to enjoy poolside and we ask what makes Parisiennes so desirable? But first, our editor in chief, Andrew Tuck, goes up the country…

Martin asked whether we would like to spend one final weekend in the magical home in the English countryside that he and his partner, Peter, spent years creating (cue the sound of my bags being packed rapidly). It’s a house dating back centuries that they filled with art and considered furniture – and life.

Diligent readers of this column might recall that, in the summer of 2022, Peter and Martin did an amazing thing. They rented a house in Provence and, over the span of a couple of weeks, invited a succession of us to join them for a few days among the lavender fields. It was, said Peter’s invitation, a moment, as we edged away from the coronavirus pandemic, designed to “celebrate life and making it through”. The remarkable thing wasn’t the renting of a sprawling villa but that someone who knew that cancer had marked their card wanted to be the host, wanted to celebrate being alive. It was a few days packed with fun, good conversations, wine and meals eaten together in the cooling evening air. Now with Peter gone, Martin has decided to let go of the home they owned, so it was his turn to be the convener of friends, to ask some of that south of France crew (and a pack of our various dogs) to gather again.

The weather in the UK wasn’t totally Provençal but it was hot enough for rosé to be the weekend’s go-to drink. On Saturday afternoon we manoeuvred the garden chairs – and the wine buckets – into the shade of a tree and the conversation, just as in that summer of 2022, drifted from topic to topic. Someone asked us what we would like to have been had we had a different career. One person said rugby player, or perhaps warden in a wildlife reserve in Africa, or interior designer (talk about hedging your bets). I didn’t have a clever idea for an alternative career; I love what I do and I can’t imagine anything else. One thing that everyone seemed to agree on was that they wish they could have found their confidence earlier. Self-doubt is the impediment to so many dreams.

For the Friday evening, Martin had bought everyone tickets to the races at Newmarket. While one of us has links to this world, it was the post-race entertainment that had caught his eye. The DJ Pete Tong would be playing a set of Ibiza classics accompanied by a 65-piece orchestra. Peter and Martin had also once owned a very nice spot in Ibiza, so this would be another bridge back to the past. I stood in the stands (easier access to rosé supplies) and found myself taken in by the crowd – thousands of racegoers, many with children, suddenly swept up in the music. Women with high heels now in hand, men easing the knot on their ties. It was also amazing how many local teenagers had come for an evening at the races (later we saw them walking back to town along grass verges). I always used to like that moment in a club when you surveyed the dance floor and it felt as though everyone was in the same moment. And here it was again.

Yet. By the time next week’s column lands, the UK’s general election will be over and there will surely be a new prime minister. Few now doubt that there will be a Labour victory but you don’t sense the sort of energy that led up to that first Tony Blair landslide in May 1997. People want change but the level of disenchantment with politics, and politicians, is just too high. There are always people who feel disenfranchised but my sense is that this increasingly includes many folk who would once have been passionate about politics. Looking at the dance-happy racegoers, I wondered what marks all these people would be putting on their ballot papers.

We drove back to London with a longtime friend, Paul, and Jan, who had known Peter for many years. The talk was of Peter, of course, of how friendships endure and interconnect, of being a host, of being grateful for lives well lived. It had been a final weekend in some ways but one that looked ahead too – accepting that change will happen.

Monocle marked the opening of its latest outpost with a housewarming party at its smart new spot in the 3rd arrondissement on Thursday. Joining Tyler Brûlé in Le Marais were an assortment of staffers from London, Zürich and beyond, as well as a host of friends and dapper denizens from the French capital’s rich creative, media and business scenes.

The energy and buzz in the room explain Monocle’s now-permanent presence in a city that is not only Europe’s capital of fashion and luxury but also boasts a thriving community committed to thoughtful urbanism, cutting-edge technologies and outstanding design. If you’re in Paris this summer, head to rue des Filles du Calvaire and come and say bonjour to our crew. À bientôt!

I recently became curious about how foreigners can tell whether someone is from Paris (writes Margaut Antonini). Having lived in the French capital my whole life, I know that there is no single Parisian look, though many women here share a refined sense of style. So what makes their fashion sense so distinctive? It’s so recognisable, in fact, that it has captured the imagination abroad and become its own marketing strategy for many brands.

The Parisian woman has been a figure of desire since the 18th century. In 1761 writer and philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau said that “fashion dominates provincial women but the Parisiennes dominate fashion”. Since then the rise of the figure has embodied impeccable taste and the expertise of many French couture houses. Today the Parisienne is someone less clearly definable and more of a benchmark of good taste: she embodies provocation, sensuality and extravagance – though never all at once, setting her apart from other nationalities. Guided by her instincts, she remains fiercely independent and effortlessly moves through trends with a playful spirit.

On the streets of Paris, a flâneur might come across women in puffer jackets paired with straight-leg jeans, long coats over kitten heels, head-to-toe denim or flowing skirts and dresses. More than just fashion, these women display a carefree attitude that is idealised in Paris: reading in a café, cycling through the city, heading confidently to meetings or just leisurely sipping coffee in the sunshine.

Could it be that what people truly seek is not just a style but a certain attitude, an eye for detail and a flair for mixing pieces together in unconventional ways? I hope so. And I hope that the image of the Parisienne evolves to become more varied in order to reflect the reality of the women who make the city a place in which to see and be seen.

A longer piece on Parisian style can be found in the ‘Monocle Paris Newspaper’, which is out now.

Since its first weekly edition in 2013, Open Kitchen, a large food market in Ljubljana’s Pogacar Square, has become a much-loved institution (writes Guy de Launey). The food-and-drink bonanza heralds the arrival of the sun more reliably than any blooms or birds – and its closure announces that winter is on its way. Open Kitchen really hits its stride in summer, when visitors from other countries mingle happily with residents in the Slovenian capital’s historical centre. From lunchtime to late in the evening, they browse the rows of wooden stalls offering a bewildering array of culinary delights, with drinks to satisfy the most discerning palate.

The event pulls off the cunning trick of banding together humble and posh in one venue. Vendors have included Michelin-starred chefs, as well as street food from Slovenia, Thailand and Japan. Everyone keeps their prices reasonable, so punters can get a taste of something that might usually be out of their range or comfort zone. If the buzz gets too much, and it can, you can retire to the relative sanity of one of the pavement cafes along Plecnik’s Arcade. If you order drinks, they are happy for you to eat your Open Kitchen spoils there. It’s a must for first-time visitors to Ljubljana wanting to get a taste of what Slovenia has to offer. The country’s reputation as a food-and-drink destination is on the rise and Open Kitchen continues to play a significant part in that.

The Monocle Concierge is our purveyor of top tips and delectable recommendations for your next trip. If you’re planning to go somewhere nice and would like some advice, click here. We will answer one question a week.

Dear Concierge,

We are planning a trip to Nice. We are interested in, preferably regional, art and cuisine.

Thanks a lot,

Anita Ganzoni
Switzerland

Dear Anita,

Nice has rightfully earned its nickname Nissa la Bella considering the many treasures that it holds. Start your visit with a hearty breakfast of brioche and roasted apricots with whipped cream at Brume Coffee, off Place Saint-François. Then make your way through the Old Town. The city is the adopted home of many creatives and has several institutions dedicated to artists that have found inspiration on the French coastline, including the Marc Chagall National Museum and the Matisse Museum, both located in the elegant Cimiez district. Nice is also home to France’s famous Villa Arson school, which houses regular exhibitions throughout the year. Villa Kérylos, the Greek-inspired home of the French archaeologist Théodore Reinach, sits just 20 minutes from the city centre by public transport and is one of the French Riviera’s most iconic villas.

After such a feast for the mind, there’s nothing quite like cuisine Nissarde to satisfy your taste buds. La Merenda, a short walk from the renowned Promenade des Anglais, serves classics such as daube de boeuf with chickpea panisse using seasonal products picked daily by chef Dominique le Stanc. On Boulevard de l’Observatoire, you will find the family-run La Chaumière which has been a gastronomic institution since the 1950s, delighting guests with choice meats grilled over an open fire. Lastly, catch the sunset at the lauded Le Plongeoir with a cocktail on the terrace. Bon séjour.

Stanislav Secrieru is the national security advisor to Maia Sandu, president of Moldova. He spoke to Monocle at the recent Ukraine Peace Summit held at the Bürgenstock Resort in Switzerland.

For a long time, a portion of your territory was occupied by Russia: the breakaway statelet of Transnistria. Do you feel that Moldova is vulnerable?
Moldova has faced several security threats but over the past two years, since Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine, it has become stronger and more resilient. We’re investing much more in our defence and creating buildings that can deflect Russian hybrid attacks. We have benefitted from the generous support of our partners in the EU, US and UK. We are confident that we can stay our course and pursue our future of European integration.

On the subject of security, are there talks about altering or repealing Article 11 of Moldova’s constitution, which guarantees the country’s neutrality? Or do you think that EU membership would ensure its security?
It’s for Moldova’s people to decide what they would like to have in the constitution, which can only be amended through them. The status of neutrality doesn’t mean that we cannot invest in our defence but we do believe that joining the EU will ensure our security. It’s a national security objective and not only about access to the European market.

Has the war in Ukraine changed the dynamic between Moldova and Transnistria? Is there any kind of ongoing dialogue?
The war has affected the dynamic. Obviously, the “five plus two” format of negotiations [which brings together representatives and mediators] became impossible to implement when two members of the talks – Ukraine and Russia – went to war. There is now more frequent dialogue between Moldova and Transnistria to address issues that are affecting citizens living on both banks of the river. It’s not an easy dialogue but it is productive – and we have proven that it has preserved stability.

When the future of Ukraine is discussed, do you see a possible resolution for Transnistria?
We only want a peaceful resolution. We have to actively work in order to bring the people living on both sides closer. We are ready to engage in any talks to find a political solution to the conflict. But we have to wait for the war in Ukraine to end first.

For our full interview with Stanislav Secrieru, tune in to ‘The Foreign Desk’ on Monocle Radio.

For its latest horological creation, Hublot has partnered with New York-based contemporary artist Daniel Arsham in a bid to redefine the pocket watch. The Arsham Droplet is limited to an edition of 99 and crafted from a harmonious blend of titanium, rubber and sapphire crystal. Known for its innovative designs and collaborations, the Swiss brand recently unveiled the timepiece in London at The Tank, Tate Modern’s subterranean film and performance-arts gallery.

It can be enjoyed in three ways: either on its titanium chain as a pocket watch, as a pendant around the neck or as a table clock via a supplementary custom stand.
hublot.com

For more timely recommendations and insights, pick up a copy of Monocle’s latest issue or subscribe today. Have a great Saturday.