Monocle Weekend
Edition: Saturday

An American bar in Paris proves a portentous place to watch the US election which, for some, has left a certain desire for escape in the air. We take the opportunity to chat with Greece’s tourism minister about how to make the country even more of a year-round destination. Then we consider the Vatican’s new anime-influenced recruitment tool and stop off in Tunis for the weekend with the Monocle Concierge. But before we set off, Andrew Tuck is on the loose in Tokyo with a tailored to-do list.

After filing last week’s column from Tokyo, I still had a whole weekend in the city up my sleeve before I would have to return to base camp. You don’t mind joining me for a jaunt through the Japanese capital, do you?

While Saturday was an umbrellas-at-the-ready kind of day, the electronic blinds slowly arose on Sunday morning to reveal bold, committed-to-stay, blue skies. My phone said it would be a balmy 21C by midday. Apart from a lunch date with Tyler on the terrace of the Palace Hotel at 14.00, I was a free agent – although I did want to see my colleague, our Asia editor and bureau chief Fiona Wilson, before the JAL wheels up at 01.00 on Monday morning.

Actually, Fiona had another title on Sunday: Tuck’s concierge. She was generously available on Whatsapp across the day, guiding me from one outpost of design and architecture to another. But I did stumble on a few things myself. One of them was the Oedo Antique Market that’s just a few minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station. It bills itself as Japan’s largest outdoor antiques market but don’t let that put you off. It’s small. It’s not full of chipped crap. And it’s an exercise in beauty.

While some of the traders had a table or two on which to display their offerings, many just had a small cloth on the floor where they had arranged their collections with perfect precision. There was coloured glass, garden tools, ceramic bowls, blue porcelain, toys, masks, lacquerware and more. Realising that some people were beginning to pack up, I rapidly found an ATM – I may even have broken into a run.

Keeping up a keen pace, I bought a wedge-shaped bowl, its interior richly glazed with an image of Mount Fuji; a pure-white vase with a tiny-black dot on its neck; ceramics, and a piece of folk art: a slice of a tree branch – 15cm across – that pulls apart to reveal a skulk of eight carved foxes (funny what you suddenly need in your life). I guess they are just knick-knacks, holiday souvenirs, the kind of stuff your relatives will chuck out after you die. But these half a dozen purchases have sat on my desk at home in London all week and made me very happy. And while someone commented on my Instagram post that Oedo is expensive, each acquisition beats a Tokyo fridge magnet.

There were also pit stops at United Arrows, Beams, Tomorrowland and Maison & Objet. Fiona dispatched me to Ginza Itoya for stationery, to the homeware department at Mitsukoshi, the Design Collection at the Matsuya Ginza department store, then on to see the ceramics at Higashiya – and all while she walked her shiba in the park.

As the daylight began to fade, I took a taxi to find Fiona at The National Art Center. As we walked, she told me about its architect, Kisho Kurokawa, who also designed the now lost Nakagin Capsule Tower Building. She walked me through the gift shop – I managed to show some restraint. Then we weaved through to the 21_21 Design Sight museum by Tadao Ando, where the autumn light perfectly caught its origami-style folded roof. We watched children playing on the outdoor sculptures and talked as we walked – all these years working together and we still have things to say.

Fiona left me in Tokyo Midtown and she could see that I was a bit overwhelmed by how much I had seen and done in four days, by how impeccable and beautiful this place is. She put a hand on my arm and said, “Don’t worry, it’s a lot. Sometimes even I have to say: ‘Please, just stop.’ It’s all too perfect.”

In fact, the most unordered aspect of the city was perhaps my attempts to pack my suitcase. Panicking that I might need to go home wearing several layers of purchases, the wooden foxes, kitchen gadgets and piles of stationery almost found a new home at the Palace Hotel.

Holiday season is fast approaching and this can only mean one thing: travel. Monocle has partnered with Japan’s leading luggage manufacturer, Ace – a specialist in suitcase technology for more than half a century – for a limited-edition Proteca FreeWalker GL suitcase. Beautiful in Monocle’s distinctive olive hue, the piece is exclusively available from The Monocle Shop.

The 50-litre case features the label’s trademark Bearon wheels for smooth, quiet rolling and Silent Caster technology for impact resistance. Complete with a TSA-approved lock and sporting a luggage tag from Japanese accessories brand Brooklyn Museum, this suitcase is a reliable companion for both long-haul adventures and quick getaways. Check out The Monocle Shop’s dedicated video here and buy yours today.

Faith is a habit (writes Andrew Mueller). Most people who observe a religion tend to observe the same one all their lives and those who do switch tend to stick with their new choice: you don’t meet many people who started out Presbyterian and finished up Hindu after having a bash at Shinto and Mormonism. It is therefore in the interests of faiths to get people while they’re young. The Catholic Church, for one, has unveiled a new recruiting sergeant. She is a cartoon character named Luce, a girl with blue hair, a yellow overcoat, muddy green boots and scallop shells reflected in her huge eyes that symbolise the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route.

The character is the creation of Italian pop artist Simone Legno, founder of the heavily anime-influenced Tokidoki brand, which explains why Luce looks like she might have stepped out of a Japanese cartoon. It is unclear whether the Vatican sees Japanese youth as an especially receptive audience, though given that slightly less than 0.5 per cent of Japanese are Catholic, the only way is up. Significantly, Luce is accompanied by friends whose names – Fe, Xin and Sky – and multiple skin tones represent an implicit global outreach. Nevertheless, it seems imaginable that any merchandise related to the gang will be outsold by Luce’s dog, Santino, a cheery mutt adorned with a baseball cap.

Introducing Luce, Archbishop Rino Fisichella spoke optimistically of “a desire to enter into the world of pop culture, so beloved by our young people”. In doing so, the Archbishop betrays a fundamental misunderstanding of the relationship between pop culture and an institution like the one he represents. If he really wants the kids to embrace Luce, he should ban her.

‘The Novices of Lerna’, Ángel Bonomini, translated by Jordan Landsman
An unambitious lawyer in Buenos Aires receives a surprising invitation from a Swiss university to take up a fellowship. On arrival, he finds 23 other invitees, all identical to himself. Then these doppelgängers start dying. Author Ángel Bonomini was largely forgotten by the time of his death in 1994, though he was admired by his contemporaries including Jorge Luis Borges and Adolfo Bioy Casares. Funny, strange and eerie, The Novices of Lerna makes a compelling case for a writer who has been described as the “secret master” of Argentine letters.
‘The Novices of Lerna’ is out now

‘The Diplomat’, Netflix
The second series of this popular political thriller follows Kate Wyler (Keri Russell) in her new posting as US ambassador to the UK. Wyler tries to prove that an attack on a Royal Navy warship was secretly conducted by the UK government – tricky while she’s based in that very country. There are flashes of The West Wing here but the series is soapier and, as such, something of a guilty pleasure.
Season two of ‘The Diplomat’ is out now

‘Mon Sang’, by Clara Luciani
Three years after her hit album, Coeur, French singer Clara Luciani is back with another winning, more intimate album. In addition to effortless disco, Mon Sang shows that she can deliver powerful, personal ballads, such as “Romance”. Expect to hear her music on high rotation on Monocle Radio.
‘Mon Sang’ will be released on 15 November

Harry’s Bar, the wood-panelled cocktail bar on rue Daunou, is literally an American bar in Paris (writes Simon Bouvier). Originally located on 7th Avenue in Manhattan, it was dismantled, packed and shipped from New York to Paris in the early 20th century, where it was reassembled near the majestic Opéra Garnier. The first-ever Bloody Mary was allegedly served at Harry’s. Hemingway was a regular. So was Humphrey Bogart. But when Monocle went there on Tuesday 5 November, it was to witness a new chapter of the bar’s political history.

For every US presidential election since 1924, Harry’s has held a remarkably accurate straw poll, open just to US citizens. As of Tuesday night, it had only failed to predict the outcome three times in a century, erroneously foreseeing a Gerald Ford win in 1976, a John Kerry victory in 2004 and putting Hillary Clinton on top in 2016. For the centennial of the bar’s political tradition, the election-watch party spilled out onto the street where a buzzing crowd formed around TV screens tuned to CNN’s election coverage. Moustachioed French hipsters could be overheard discussing comedian Jon Stewart in their native tongue and a young woman with an American accent merged the Parisian chic of a beige trench coat with a bright red “Make America Great Again” cap.

Inside, the bar was packed, though not with expats eager to cast their faux ballot. Camera crews and reporters from French and American media were out in force, filming close-ups of hot dogs and chasing down the few patrons sporting “I voted” stickers for comment. When midnight came, the final results of the straw poll were read out: 568 for Donald Trump, 534 for Kamala Harris. The cacophony of groans and boos made it clear that most of those in attendance were hoping 2024 would mark the fourth time Harry’s got it wrong. But the following morning, Paris woke up to the news of Trump’s imminent victory: Harry’s prediction had proved accurate once again.

Greece’s tourism minister, Olga Kefalogianni, is in London this week for the World Travel Market, where the Greek National Tourism Organisation is its premier partner. She talks to The Monocle Minute about the significance of the event and why Greece should be at the top of everyone’s travel list next year.

Why is the World Travel Market so important to Greece?
Greece had an overall record year in 2023 in terms of arrivals and revenue. This year is set to break that record but we would still like to increase our presence in the UK market. Our aim is to promote Greece’s image as a year-round destination and talk about unknown areas as well as the very well-known ones. We have 13 regions in Greece but currently only five of them receive 95 per cent of the total number of arrivals. There are many opportunities to explore other regions, which are looking to attract more visitors.

What are the main objectives for tourism in 2025?
We aim for the Greek hotels to become fully sustainable by 2030 and we are going to pass a bill of law in parliament for hotel classifications based on their level of sustainability. This would make us the first country to do so. We’re also working on spreading tourism across the country and throughout the year in order to alleviate pressure from some of the local communities.

How is Greece coping with a longer season?
I was in Rhodes last week and it felt like summer. So it’s really important that we have managed to extend the travel season at the more popular destinations. The next challenge will be to attract visitors in the winter months to the mountainous areas and cities. Athens is already a year-round destination, Thessaloniki is also starting to become one and we are looking at other big cities that could turn into winter city-break destinations.

Why should people visit Greece next year?
There are so many destinations in Greece and many remain undiscovered. I have to admit that despite being the minister of tourism for the second time, I haven’t managed to visit all of the Greek islands yet. The mainland also offers a lot in one visit. Starting from the north and heading down towards the south, there are countless opportunities to explore the country’s culture, take part in wine tourism, experience different gastronomy and visit the beautiful countryside and picturesque villages.

For our full interview with Olga Kefalogianni, tune in to Friday’s edition of ‘The Globalist’ on Monocle Radio.

The Monocle Concierge is our purveyor of top tips and delectable recommendations for your next trip. If you’re planning to go somewhere nice and would like some advice, clickhere. We will publish one answer each week.

Dear Concierge,
I am looking to visit Tunis for a few days. Do you have any hotel and eating recommendations?

Thanks,
Narina Amvazas
Australia

Dear Narina,
As the Maghreb’s third-largest city, Tunisia’s capital is a crucible of cultural and artistic influences thanks to migration from Italy and sub-Saharan Africa. Start the day with a pistachio-filled croissant and a Turkish coffee known as cezwe at Ben Rahim. There, specialty brews fuse with Arab-coffee culture.

This bohemian metropole is a hub of exciting culinary projects and Konbini is one you shouldn’t miss. Located within the La Marsa neighbourhood’s artistic district, Bhar Lazreg, this spot offers a Japanese-Mediterranean fusion borrowed from Tokyo’s convenience-store culture. Wile away your lunchtime at Le Golfe, an elegant venue overlooking the Mediterranean. The linguini with boutargue (mullet roe) is a delicacy of the city’s Italian diaspora. For dinner, head to the seaside village of La Goulette for Tunisia’s hero dish: brik. Chez Mohsen’s iteration of the savoury filo pastry is redolent with the flavours of this vibrant nation.

Bed down for the night in a sumptuous suite at Dar El Jeld in The Medina, and just moments from the city’s historic Zitouna Mosque.

And if you’re looking for a souvenir, you can’t go too far wrong with Lamiri Harissa. Pick up a jar or three to take home at Sidi Bou Saïd’s Bleue deli and Tunis won’t seem nearly so far from home.

Paris’s favourite contemporary fashion label, Soeur, is expanding into menswear with a dedicated line appropriately named Frère. In true French fashion, founders and sisters Domitille and Angélique Brion have always blurred the lines between masculine and feminine style codes. So turning their attention to their male counterparts was a natural next step for the fast-growing business, which operates 48 shops across France, Spain and the UK. “We’re into men’s tailoring; details such as internal buttons and linings have become strong signatures for us,” says Domitille.

The Frère style is “relaxed yet refined”, with cosy knits, smart tweed coats, tailored shirts and brown gilets – ideal for autumn. “We are striving to [offer] an affordable designer brand and tap in to the longing for individuality, to have a sharper outlook and responsible manufacturing processes,” Freja Day, the brand’s CEO, tells Monocle.
soeur.uk/pages/frere-co

For more finely tailored articles and stylish essentials, peruse the latest issue of Monocle, which is on newsstands now. Or, better yet, subscribe so you never miss a beat. Have a super Saturday.