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Sourdough is at the front of our minds, and we at the front of the queue, for a new bakery in Frankfurt. Then we chat to a Brazilian fiction writer on tour in Dallas and bed down in a chic hotel on a French island. Plus: a citrusy roast chicken to crown the table and the Italian-made tonic water shaking up the beverage scene. Here to get our table-hopping adventure under way, Tyler Brûlé is in Hong Kong with some fresh finds and famous faces.
The Faster Lane / Tyler Brûlé
In the coming weeks we’re going to introduce a new member of the Monocle family – in the pages of our December/January edition to be precise. Over the past couple of days, he’s been pulling himself together in an atelier in France and when he makes his appearance he will be taking you, dear reader, through the streets, lobbies and boutiques of Paris.
Some of you will know that Monocle runs a rather ad hoc but highly resourceful concierge service that lives on screen in this newsletter, occasionally on Monocle Radio but mostly it’s a service delivered by the likes of Josh, Andrew, Fiona, Sophie, myself and a few others. I’ve never kept a tally of how many enquiries roll in daily – whether for ryokan requests in Kyushu, lunch tips for Gstaad, shopping itineraries for Seoul or bar listings for Stockholm – but it’s considerable. Monocle’s new family member will be bolstering our service team and we look forward to introducing him when our new issue hits shelves and letterboxes later this month. If you only subscribe to our newsletters and are not yet a paid-up member of the broader family, now’s the time to do so. We’ll be revisiting our subscription rates for 2025, so today’s the perfect opportunity to buy a gift subscription or renew your current plan. If you want to do something more elaborate, such as offer a series of Christmas subscriptions to your staff, top clients or far-flung family members, allow my colleague Holly Anderson (han@monocle.com) to work out the right plan for you.
In the meantime, the latest member of our concierge team has spent the week making his way from the north of Asia to Australia, and all the while adding a few names to our black book of key shops, restaurants, sounds and superior-service offers. Oddly, I couldn’t get past the letter A. But that leaves no shortage of top picks.
1
A Presse. If you’ve not come across this super sharp, slightly preppy Japanese menswear brand then there’s just enough time to get to Tokyo or Sapporo for a little round of shopping at Wild Life Tailor. They do a superior job of commissioning fine knits but also know their way around construction techniques for gently boxy, swingy blazers and coats as well.
2
Angèle. I shared the lift with the Belgian pop sensation on our way up to The China Club in HK on Monday evening. I told her that I was one of her original fans and how much I enjoyed her performance of “Nightcall” at the closing ceremony for the Paris Olympics. As we walked into the party, she explained that the Olympics, even for a non-athlete such as her, had had a transformative effect on her career over the past few months. 24 hours later I was front row at the Chanel party at Shaw Studios where she performed a slinky, slightly pared back rendition of this most-infectious hit. Not yet familiar? Give it a spin and good luck getting it out of your head.
3
The Armoury. Mark Cho continues to work magic with his Pedder Arcade curation, his own collection of fine menswear in Hong Kong and also his outpost in New York. Cho is one of HK’s most important forces for good and offers the ideal excuse for a business or private detour if you’ve not passed through Central lately.
4
Ascot Chang. As shirt and jacket fittings go it doesn’t get much more on point than spending an efficient 30 minutes with Justin Chang and his boys. The whole Chang custom experience is another reason for a HK weekender pre-Christmas.
5
Audrey Diwan. Do you ever have those moments where you become mildly obsessed with someone’s creative work and then you just happen to meet them? Many weeks ago I discovered Pas de vagues (The Good Teacher) while making an Air France crossing of the Atlantic, and have been telling everyone about the film ever since. On Tuesday morning, almost completely by chance, I found myself chatting to Diwan on stage about her latest work, a tiny short called Modern Flirt. She also happens to be the writing force behind France’s box-office hit, L’Amour ouf (Beating Hearts), which I’m hoping will be on one of my upcoming AF flights or in my local alpine cinema by Christmas.
House News / Christmas markets, Zürich and London
Let our Christmas markets be the setting as you toast the season. Browse handsome products from some of our favourite retailers and catch up with our editors over warming Glühwein and hearty food as we indulge the holiday spirit with live music and exclusive Monocle treats. Join us at our Zürich HQ on Saturday 7 and Sunday 8 December, and in London on Saturday 14 and Sunday 15 December.
Dufourstrasse 90, Zürich; Midori House, 1 Dorset Street, London
For more information about Monocle’s 2024 Christmas markets, seehere.
New opening / Ouwe, Frankfurt
Since opening in Frankfurt’s Nordend neighbourhood, two things have been a constant at Ouwe: its organic sourdough bread and the daily queue outside its door (writes Rossella Frigerio). Based in a former tailor’s shop, it is run by co-founders and old-school friends Marius Hörle and Eike Becher. Having decided to turn their passion for baking into a full-time job, they trained as bakers and opened Ouwe, meaning “oven” in the local dialect.
Early each morning, Hörle and Becher knead dough that has been left to rise for at least 24 hours and then bake it into fragrant loaves and seasonal snacks. At noon (and 09.00 on Saturdays), they open to a line of customers hungry for their daily bread. Ciabattas, brioches and mini-rye buns with seeds are among their prized offerings. Using only locally grown ingredients and traditional-baking techniques creatively reinterpreted, Ouwe is simple, slow, and honest. Their mantra? Where there’s good bread, there’s a feast.
ouwe.bio
Eating out / Caviar Kaspia, London
In a Georgian townhouse on Chesterfield Street in the stylish heart of Mayfair, Caviar Kaspia London has relaunched with a refreshed menu and an elegant redesign (writes Brenda Tuohy).
Established in 1927 on Paris’s Right Bank, the restaurant’s enticing menu is created by chef Julien Tworek of London’s Sketch. There’s a selection of caviars including Impérial Baeri farmed in France, Kaluga Caviar from northern China, Beluga Royal and Osciètre Réserve from the Caspian Sea.
The former private members’ club has become a public affair and, as the party season draws close, there are few better spots for a soirée.
caviarkaspialondon.com
Sunday roast / Bruna Dantas Lobato
Bruna Dantas Lobato is a St Louis-based author and translator from Brazil (writes Rory Jones). Her new novel, Blue Light Hours, was published by Grove Atlantic in October. Lobato shares her affection for a hearty breakfast, how she clears her mind after a busy day of writing and the joys of an empty cinema.
Where do we find you this weekend?
I’m in Dallas for my book tour. I’ve never been before, so I’m hoping to explore a bit. I hear that the Bishop Arts District is lovely and very walkable.
Gentle start or a jolt?
A gentle start, if possible. I sleep in, have a slow breakfast and then catch up on reading or go on a short hike.
What’s for breakfast?
Oatmeal with peanut butter and a banana. I’ve been eating this every day for almost a decade. It’s delicious, easy to make and filling.
Walk the dog or downward dog?
Walking, always. Whenever I need a break from writing, I go for a quick walk around the neighbourhood or to the local park. It gets me out of the house, helps clear my head and, as far as I’m concerned, counts as exercise.
A Sunday soundtrack?
Bossa nova or jazz. I listen to a lot of instrumental music so I can concentrate on whatever I’m reading – and I’m always reading something.
Sunday culture must?
I’m a big fan of Sunday-movie matinees when the cinema is mostly empty and I can sit there alone.
News or not?
No news on the weekend and no emails either, if I can help it. I like to have at least a couple of days a week when I’m not living in internet time.
What’s on the menu?
I’m a better baker than a cook, so it’s all things dough. Maybe a homemade pizza or quiche.
Sunday evening routine?
I write a journal before bed on Sunday nights about the past week – what’s next, how I’m feeling. I like having those few minutes to check in and see how I’m doing after getting some rest over the weekend.
Do you lay out an outfit for Monday?
I never have but I’ve always aspired to.
Recipe / Ralph Schelling
Roast chicken is a crowd pleaser at any time of year. This recipe uses lemon juice and butter, as well as rosemary and onions, to keep the chicken moist and flavourful. Swiss chef Ralph Schelling also adds a splash of vermouth or sherry for extra zing.
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 whole chicken
Stick of softened, salted butter
Smoked paprika, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 lemons, halved
4-5 sprigs of rosemary
1 small onion, peeled and halved
Head of crushed garlic
Splash of sherry or vermouth
Method
1
Preheat an oven to 200C. Pat the chicken dry and put it into a large casserole dish. Spread half of the butter evenly (and carefully) under the skin. Spread the remaining butter over the skin of the whole chicken. Season with salt, pepper and smoked paprika, to taste.
2
Squeeze the lemon juice onto the chicken. Arrange the squeezed lemons around the chicken on the bottom of the pan. Place the rosemary sprigs in the chicken cavity with the onions and garlic. Add an optional splash of sherry or vermouth to the pan. Tie the thighs together with string.
3
Cover the chicken and cook it in a large casserole dish at 200C for 60-80 minutes. When the juices run clear, the chicken is done.
4
To get a crispier skin, roast the chicken, uncovered, for the final 2-3 minutes on the highest heat.
5
Allow to cool and serve with a spoonful of lemon butter from the bottom of the pan.
Weekend plans? / La Mission, Île d’Yeu
Off the coast of Vendée in France, the rugged Atlantic island of Île d’Yeu offers plenty of places for summer holidaymakers but year-round options are harder to find (writes Annick Weber). “We love how the island evolves across the seasons and want to share this with our guests,” says Michel Delloyle, the co-founder of Hôteliers Impertinents. That’s why the group designed its newest opening, La Mission, to be one of the island’s few destinations for all seasons.
Situated in the main village of Saint-Saveur, the venue is as much a gathering place for islanders as a hotel. With a full calendar of activities ranging from raclette dinners in the winter to pétanque competitions in the summer, the founders’ aim was to give a piece of local heritage back to the community. La Mission is set in one of the isle’s most storied locations and its main building dates back to the 19th century. It was constructed under Napoléon III as military barracks, and later transformed into a school and a parish hall. “Some locals still have memories of going to school here; others come in to reminisce about festive family gatherings at the hall,” says Delloyle.
When it came to creating the hotel’s warm, convivial interiors, designer Pauline d’Hoop was equally mindful of staying true to its essence. The 22-key hotel’s rooms and suites are decorated in the typical-island style, featuring white-wood-panelled walls, rattan furniture and plentiful splashes of colour. This treasure is the perfect retreat after a blustery island walk or while waiting for the fairer weather to return to the property’s 4,000 sqm ocean-facing garden.
lamissionyeu.com
Bottoms up / Match tonics
It seems counterintuitive to reinvent a beverage designed to be mixed with punchier flavours (writes Claudia Jacob). And yet that’s precisely the rationale that Alexander Curiger, Juan Carlos Maroto and Mats Olsson wanted to challenge when they proposed Match, a line of tonic waters that turn the carbonated drink into the main event.
Based in Zürich, the trio has serious roots in beverage branding after working at Pernod Ricard, Corona and Red Bull. The squat-bottled product line features an Indian tonic water; a Mediterranean flavour with notes of sage, basil and rosemary; a floral iteration with jasmine flowers; and a spicy version to fire up your tequila. Made in Northern Italy, Match proves that tonic water doesn’t have to be designed to blend in. We’ll drink to that.
curius.com
For more finely crafted and effervescent insights, pick up a copy of Monocle’sNovember issue, which is on newsstands now. Or better yet,subscribetoday so that you never miss an issue. Have a super Sunday.
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