The Monocle Minute

As a sample group, my fellow flyers en route to Florence from London provided an accurate dress rehearsal for what to expect at this season’s edition of Pitti Immagine at the Fortezza da Basso. The staff on my too-early Vueling flight, however, were visibly perplexed. Both sides of the aisle were packed with well-preened men, cocooned in knitwear and donning big hats, bigger sunglasses and even heftier coats. One flight attendant appeared to think that he had landed in an alternate universe populated solely by silver-haired male models with a penchant for cashmere. He didn’t appear perturbed; neither did I.

There’s a focus among the trade fair’s exhibitors on high-quality fabrics and functional designs. Naturally, Italian heavyweights such as Herno and Brunello Cucinelli are standouts in this field. Elsewhere, stands such as that of Japan’s J-Quality project highlight regional prowess. This project, which boasts Masato Koyama of Heugn as its design director and Hirofumi Kurino of United Arrows as a consultant, is showcasing the manufacturing expertise of factories across the country.

As is often the case with big industry events, the real takeaways are not found in press releases but rather whispered among the stands. The word on the street is that 2025 will be a year for the fashion industry to regroup while cherishing its loyal, wealthier customer base by focusing on quality. Brands have been buoyed by the presence of buyers from the US and South Korea – many of whom are feeling creatively fuelled by a drift away from a younger, cash-strapped clientele. In hushed tones, I was told that the world of luxe menswear was struggling to resonate with Gen Z after a period of marketing logo-heavy clothes and accessories to appease a more youthful audience. Judging by the sartorial savoir-faire of the seasoned, elegant crowd on my untimely flight, well-made and well-cut menswear never needed rebranding in the first place.

Grace Charlton is Monocle’s associate editor. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.

In Crete, vibrant bougainvillea twists over doorways and shaded wooden tables overlook the sea (writes Amy Van Den Berg). The island was the setting for one of my less arduous assignments. I was travelling across the country with the Monocle team to research our latest title, Greece: The Monocle Handbook (on sale today), and when we arrived in Crete, I decided to forgo the usual reporting-trip routine. Rather than hurriedly zipping between points on a map and juggling various schedules, I paused; this is not a place in which to rush. After all, it’s easier to find the much-fêted, fuchsia-lined door frames at a slower pace. But I also discovered that there’s much more to Crete than its picture-postcard charms.

In Heraklion, I sat at the edge of a bustling square to admire the stained-glass windows of the Cathedral of Agios Minas; children fed pigeons nearby while their parents sipped freddo espressos at sun-dappled tables. Across the island, in Melampes, I met a young and innovative vintner, Iliana Malihin, who chose the region for its unique combination of altitude and sea breezes. In Spili, I stopped at a deli selling excellent Greek produce; and in Rethymno I met Manolis Stagakis Jr, whose family has made traditional Cretan lyra instruments for three generations. Along the way, I took in the rolling hills, near-constant sunshine and the odd glass of wine. It turns out that the best approach to discovering the island is with a curious mind and a relaxed heart.

For more tips on all things Hellenic, pick up a copy of ‘Greece: The Monocle Handbook’ today.

Mark Carney is expected to announce his candidacy to replace Justin Trudeau as the leader of Canada’s Liberal party and the country’s prime minister. The former governor of both the Bank of Canada and the Bank of England teased his intention to run during an appearance on US television and could launch his campaign at an event in Edmonton today. During the interview with Jon Stewart on The Daily Show, Carney styled himself as a political “outsider” – but one with the credentials to steer Canada’s troubled economy through anticipated friction during Donald Trump’s second administration.

Such qualities might serve him well among voters who are keen to move on from Trudeau but who remain reticent about the downbeat tone and populist outlook of Conservative leader Pierre Poilievre. Nonetheless, Poilievre’s party has enjoyed a big lead in national opinion polls for several months. If, on 9 March, Carney is chosen to lead the Liberal party, he would become the first non-MP to serve as Canada’s prime minister since 1984.

For more on Canada’s prime ministerial race, read our editorial director and chairman Tyler Brûlé’s column in last Sunday’sMonocle Weekend Edition. You can also listen back to a conversation between Brûlé and Carney in 2021 for Monocle Radio programmeThe Chiefs.

Poland’s ambitious Central Communication Port (CPK) transport hub is finally taking off after authorities decided its location this week. The selection of the site in Warsaw’s western suburbs should jump-start construction on the estimated €29bn airport with an initial annual capacity of 34 million passengers. The hub will also host high-speed rail links that reduce travel times between the capital and other major cities.

Led by architects Foster + Partners and engineering firm Buro Happold, the hub’s design plans extend to a transformation of Poland’s national airline, LOT. The aim is for LOT to become a leading global carrier by the time the first planes touch down at CPK in 2032. The announcement comes amid a flurry of mobility plans in the region, including the high-speed Rail Baltica connecting Vilnius, Riga and Tallinn, and the progressing Via Carpathia highway linking Lithuania and Greece. With initiatives such as these, Poland’s mobility connections look set to rival neighbouring Germany and beyond – positive signs that the country’s economy is on the right track.

Magnus Renfrew is the co-founder of Art SG, a fixture in the global art market’s calendar and a scene-setter for Singapore’s galleries. He tells us more about what to expect at this year’s edition, which opens to the public tomorrow, and why the city-state is an ideal location for an art fair.

You’ve previously worked in Hong Kong and Taipei. What drew you to Singapore?
Many years ago, we noticed that Southeast Asia – despite being such a vast region with an affluent, art-loving crowd – lacked a major international hub fair. While fairs such as Taipei Dangdai serve other parts of Asia, we felt that there was a need and want for something big here.

How does Singapore plug that gap?
Singapore is having a moment. There has been a shift in its geoeconomic and political landscape. Given its history as a major part of the maritime silk route, it’s also a natural place for discussions about contextualising and re-evaluating work from other cultures.

This is Art SG’s third edition. What can we expect?
There are 105 galleries participating from all over Southeast Asia and beyond. Through various sectors, we feature big-name international galleries, emerging artists, thematic showrooms and film. Given Singapore’s status as a major technology hub, we wanted to highlight galleries that will showcase works by digital artists. Above all, it’s a lot of fun.

Art SG runs until Sunday at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands Expo and Convention Centre.

We meet former corporate lawyer Alexia Karides, who left the legal briefs behind to launch Ysso, an Athens-based jewellery brand crafting handmade pieces. Then: we take a peek inside the pages of our latest title, ‘Greece: The Monocle Handbook’.