After nine days and countless runway shows, presentations and late-night gatherings, Paris Fashion Week came to an end on Tuesday evening (writes Natalie Theodosi). The closing acts included shows by Chanel and Miu Miu, as well as more intimate affairs by independent outfits, such as Kiko Kostadinov.
They all drove the same point home: modern dress codes are shifting. Slouchy silhouettes, sporty fabrics and trainers are being replaced by blazers (the bigger the shoulder the better), leather dress shoes and luxurious natural materials, from cashmere to alpaca. At Chanel, coat dresses, capes and an array of bows telegraphed this renewed appetite for refinement. At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada played around with style tropes from the 1930s and 1940s – think fur stoles, pencil skirts and matching skirt suits. “These aren’t clichés; they’re elements of femininity that we need to hold onto,” said Prada backstage.
This return to old-school glamour has been the topic of conversation throughout the show season, and translated into pocket watches, leather gloves and decadent corduroy or velvet suits for men. Some see all this as a return to conservative values. But most designers’ motivations seem to be more about dressing their customers up for the occasion. Faced with tough times and highly competitive markets, you probably need something more striking than a tracksuit to stand out.