If it’s nearing the end of Q1 then it must be time for my annual reset and, as has become tradition, I’m tapping away on my terrace at the Buchinger Wilhelmi above Marbella. It’s day seven of a nine-day regime that involves 800 cals a day, 10-15km walks, pilates, physio, acupuncture (truly world-class), medical check-ups and daily weigh-ins. According to the latest reading as of 09.27 this morning, I’m on track to be 5kg lighter by the time I fly up to Paris on Tuesday.
Many guests are here for the fasting programme but I rather like the idea of eating and enjoying a sneaky cortado or two while out for my walks. Though I’m no expert, I believe the caloric intake allows me to carry on with much of my work and even be more efficient as I’m so focused and alert given the mountains of ginger and micro-greens. If you’re in need of being beach ready over the coming weeks or months, or just want a little tranquility, then I reckon this is the best thing going in Europe. While I was hoping to leave with a better tan (it has rained here for six days solid), the sun did put in an appearance and allowed for a more leisurely Saturday morning pace through Marbella town proper, down the odd side street and into a couple of new projects.
1.
Marbella’s been on the Monocle circuit for a while now and despite many having an outdated impression of the place (similar to all those grumps who complain about Hong Kong but haven’t been there for years), the city and the surrounding area is without question the capital of Costa del Sverige. The amount of Swedes and Nordic folk in general is staggering, a bit like all the Frenchies in Lisbon. If the cloudy winter has been getting you down in Munich or Montréal and you’re not keen to invest in property in Miami – then this just might be your place. Fans of good modernism can pick up apartments of a sensible scale a few blocks from the beach and I’m convinced that there are fewer couples in Balenciaga trackies with pitbulls than there were five years ago. Then again, they could have been chased away by the rain.
2.
Gentrification is a bad word in too many city halls but if new buyers and fresh energy improves the streetscape and the overall retail offer, who should complain? At the moment the Chinese seem to be giving Inditex a run for their money as a force with the most retail and “service” outlets. Do you really think all those Thai massage parlours are run by nice ladies from Phuket? I don’t either. Marbella’s town centre is currently plagued by too many Chinese bazaars full of shoddy goods but, like the gangsters who’ve been drawn to this stretch of the Med, they’ll soon fade away as they’ll no longer be fit for new apartment owners from Turku and Torekov.
3.
Already tempted to try it for a weekend but don’t want to commit to 800 calories a day? The Marbella Club is still the best game in town and just gets better as it has expanded and opened up into the plot next door: new restaurant, a fresh pool and, of course, a padel court.
4.
Looking for a cosy place to grab some great coffee, clever juice combos and all close to the very good newsstand behind the lighthouse? Then secure a table at Mi Casa Tu Casa. It’s run by a lovely Mexican couple and does some delicious-looking breakfasts. Sadly, the menu was way out of my daily intake zone so I can’t say that I sampled.
5.
Some clever Norwegians have upped the restaurant, interior and design stakes with Forum Marbella – tucked between The Marbella Club and Puente Romano. Think pockets of Pacific Palisades, a bit of Brentwood Country Mart and Montecito and you have the Andalucian version of “know your target, upmarket enclave.” Anchored by the impressive Sandon interiors shop and a branch of Spisa, a smart Swedish local grocery store group, the two-level centre was rammed and there was hardly a word of Spanish spoken.
Finally, a thank you to everyone who wrote such kind words and sent your condolences in the past week. It’s been quite overwhelming to realise how much Ema has played a role in writing these columns over the decades and the connection that develops across pages and screens. As they say in these parts, tack!
