Sunday 30 March 2025 - Monocle Minute | Monocle

Sunday. 30/3/2025

Monocle Weekend
Edition: Sunday

Made for the moment

As Milan limbers up to host the annual Salone del Mobile furniture fair, we’ve reserved a table at a new neighbourhood bistro. We also discover the untapped potential of the Indonesian island of Lombok, speak to visual artist David Shrigley about his weekend plans and share a recipe for whole roasted ‘branzino’. Plus: we toast the winery that’s popping the cork on undiscovered European vineyards. Starting us off is our editorial director, Tyler Brûlé.

The Faster Lane:

Farewell Gwen Robinson: a journalistic force, a friend and a true original

On the odd day over the past few weeks, I’ve perched in the lounge of our new Paris outpost talking to French journalists about the Monocle story and, in part, my own. It’s been a while since I’ve done a press blitz and with the right journalist sitting opposite I was reminded how therapeutic it can be when you dare to venture off-message and open up a bit more than you planned.

Journalists representing French dailies from the right and left (you can guess the titles) dug deeper than others: “Where did you start your career?”; “How did you get into journalism?”; “Why still do print?”; “Why Paris and why only now?” In the hours and days afterward, I’ve found myself thinking about the people and places that have shaped my career. At the same time it all turned into a bit of a name game as I started to recall all those who had been such remarkable teachers and bossy bosses.

Early on there was Rachel at the BBC, who would swear and gesticulate wildly in story meetings and pushed me to do better. There was her boss, Janet, who would curse at me via my earpiece while on air and tell me to get “those fuckin’ glasses” off my face and then: “I don’t give a fuck if you can’t see which is fuckin’ camera one or two.” There was Lisa at ABC News, who was all diplomacy and soft talking; and then Janet at Channel 9 Australia, who swore more than BBC Janet but with some added Aussie spice. When I moved out of broadcasting and onto the printed page it was Anne at Stern, Isolde at Time Inc and Emma at the FT who helped me sharpen my writing, editing and management skills. Are you picking up on a trend here? For the past 30 years my best bosses have all been accomplished women who were razor sharp, often brutal, always foul mouthed and universally fun to work for.

When Monocle launched back in 2007, I was hoping to bring such an editor or correspondent on board but even then they were hard to find – even in the most distant news bureaux or adjacent bars. Thanks to an impromptu dinner in Tokyo organised by our bureau chief, Fiona Wilson, things changed, and I met Gwen Robinson over a couple of bottles of fine white from the Golan Heights – a proper journo from the old school had entered the room. Gwen was at the FT and was fascinated by our project. She asked a thousand questions, dropped as many story ideas, probed about the business and as the evening carried on suggested other bars to ensure things carried on into the night.

In Tokyo and elsewhere in Asia this became a routine: very late dinners, even later drinks and often early starts. Gwen started writing for us and when we launched Monocle Radio she became a frequent contributor – sought after for her insights on Southeast Asia as much as her sexy, smoky voice. One evening, over drinks in the Orchid Bar at the Okura, Gwen asked about our growth plans and if a bit of additional capital might be useful. Why not? “Have you thought about talking to the Nikkei?” she asked. “They want to invest outside Japan.” Over the following weeks she worked her contacts, arranged introductions and six months later the Nikkei took a stake in Monocle (at a handsome valuation of more than US$100m I must add) and remains a shareholder to this day.

Gwen started spending more time in Bangkok and opened up a whole city and country to our editors and correspondents. Gwen’s “daggy Chinese joints” or seedy Japanese bars in Bangkok were always sure bets and she was quick with contacts in Myanmar or the right diplomat at the Thai foreign ministry. Bangkok was affectionately referred to as ’Kok or Bangers and it’s thanks to Gwen that Thailand has become one of those countries that is firmly part of the Monocle story.

A couple of weeks ago I had a long, relaxed weekend lunch at Craft with Gwen and my colleague Linard. We then zipped around to some shops and cafés, discussed Gwen joining us at The Chiefs in Jakarta and then I sent the two of them off to get on with the rest of their day. Gwen gave a flirty little wave as they pulled away. As I turned and walked into my meeting it was unthinkable that this would be the last time that I would see her. A couple of days later, Fiona told me that Gwen had been admitted to King Chulalongkorn Memorial Hospital suffering from flu and various complications. Gwen Robinson died yesterday. Her brother Mark and a close circle of friends had been with her over the past few days. I will miss her enormously. So too will all of us at Monocle. Gwen loved firing off news and gossip on Line (far better than Signal!), she corresponded with my mom and she was always eager to know when I’d be back in the ’Kok and “up for a late rasp”. People tend to overuse the term legend these days but Gwen was an original – ballsy, generous, constantly curious and perhaps the last of her generation.

Bangkok, Tokyo and journalism in general has lost one of the truly special ones. Thank you Gwen for being a teacher, confidante, collaborator and drinking date. Love you.

House News: Monocle at Salone del Mobile

Inside scoop

Monocle’s design editor, Nic Monisse, will host two events at Milan Design Week. Join us for a lively discussion with Spain-based automobile brand Cupra and an in-depth look at DesignSingapore Council’s Future Impact showcase.

Image: Andrea Pugliotto

Don’t forget to pick up a copy of Monocle’s dedicated Salone del Mobile newspaper, which will be on newsstands in Milan throughout the fair, offering indispensable coverage.

Image: Andrea Pugliotto

Monocle x Cupra is on 7 April at 20.00 at Cupra City Garage, Corso Como 1

Live with Monocle at Future Impact 3: Design Nation, 9 April, Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Monache, Via Lanzone 13. Monocle Radio’s pop-up will be broadcasting shows at 15.00, 16.00, 17.00 and 18.00. Followed by a cocktail reception between 18.00 and 21.00.

New opening: Sandì, Milan

Spot of lunch?

Hidden away on a residential street in Porta Venezia, Sandì is a bistro that has swiftly become a neighbourhood favourite (writes Ed Stocker). The project, which occupies a beautiful 1960s street-level space that was once a bakery, is overseen by Modense chef Laura Santosuosso and her partner, Denny Mollica.

Image: Andrea Pugiotto

In addition to time spent in Paris, Santosuosso has worked at some of Milan’s finest restaurants, including Erba Brusca, Remulass and Nebbia. “The menu’s departure point is always Italian regional food,” says the chef. “But there are influences from our travels too.”

Image: Andrea Pugiotto

Dishes such as roasted cauliflower in a green pepper sauce are bursting with umami flavours. Other standouts include slow-cooked leeks in red wine, blue cheese and dark chocolate, and cabbage stuffed with red prawns and pork shoulder, served with a flavoursome bisque. Sandì is currently only open for lunch, except on Fridays when a dinner service also takes place. “We want to have all of the comfort of dinner but at lunch,” says Santosuosso. We like their way of thinking.
Via Francesco Hayez, 13

For more on our favourite restaurants and watering holes, pick up a copy of Monocle’s Marchissue, which is available now.

Image: Andrew Quinn

Sunday roast: David Shrigley

Drawing the line

UK-based visual artist David Shrigley is a master of satirical line drawings that portray mundane occurrences (writes Valentina Venelli). Here, he shares his Sunday rituals, his penchant for a vegetarian roast and where he draws the line on news consumption.

Where do we find you this weekend?
At home in Hove [on England’s south coast] with my wife and our miniature schnauzer, Inka.

What’s for breakfast?
Dairy-free porridge and a cup of coffee.

Lunch in or out?
Out. My ideal lunch would be a vegetarian roast at the Ram Inn in Firle, an idyllic village nestled in the South Downs. An overcooked nut roast is far more palatable than overcooked meat.

Walk the dog or downward dog?
Both. I highly recommend the walk up to Firle Beacon but I also need yoga every day to stop me from creaking.

A Sunday soundtrack?
This week it’s the new Richard Dawson record, The End of the Middle.

Sunday culture must?
I love watching live football, often at Whitehawk FC, my local team. My cultural fix is live music – Brighton certainly punches above its weight in that regard.

News or not?
I haven’t looked at the news since Donald Trump was re-elected.

Sunday evening routine?
Maybe Netflix but I’m probably happier reading a book. And I go to bed ridiculously early. I’m often in my pyjamas by 20.30.

Do you lay out an outfit for Monday?
Sort of. My uniform is a paint-splattered sweatshirt and jeans.

Illustration: Xiha

Recipe: Aya Nishimura

Roasted ‘branzino’ with crispy potatoes and grilled courgette

Mediterranean sea bass (branzino) has something of a mild flavour so Monocle’s Japanese recipe writer, Aya Nishimura, recommends that you flavour it with some lemon, dill and fresh herbs. Serve with crispy potatoes and grilled courgettes.

Serves 4

Ingredients

750g baby potatoes
1½ tbsps olive oil
700g whole sea bass, scaled and cleaned
2 tbsps olive oil
10g dill
1 lemon, thinly sliced
2 red onions, ¼ thinly sliced (for stuffing) and 1¾ cut into quarters
400g cherry tomatoes on the vine
3 tbsps olive oil
3 sprigs fresh thyme
4 courgettes
3 branches fresh oregano, roughly chopped

Method

1.
Preheat the oven to 180C.

2.
To cook the potatoes, bring water to a boil with half a teaspoon of salt. Add the potatoes to the boiling water and cook for 5 minutes, then drain. Place them on a roasting dish with thyme, salt, pepper and 1½ tbsps of olive oil. Roast for 30 minutes.

3.
To prepare the fish, pat the sea bass dry, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, inside and out. Stuff with dill, sliced onion and lemon.

4.
Arrange the cherry tomatoes and the remaining onion in a baking dish, season with olive oil, salt and pepper, and place the fish on top. Roast for 35 to 45 minutes. Serve with the roasted potatoes.

For the courgettes

1.
Slice the courgettes lengthwise into 5mm-thick pieces.

2.
Season the courgette slices with olive oil, chopped oregano, salt and pepper.

3.
Heat a grill pan and grill the courgette strips on both sides until crosshatch marks appear.

Weekend plans?: Somewhere Lombok

Somewhere you’d rather be

The island of Lombok, just east of the more developed Bali, remains unjustly overlooked (writes Naomi Xu Elegant). Its beaches, paddy fields and forested slopes easily rival those of its better-known neighbour and there are fewer people to elbow out of the way to see them.

Image: Wahyu Pratama

With 20 standalone villas, a spa, restaurant and bar, and an infinity pool overlooking the world-class waves rolling into the bay, Somewhere Lombok is the ideal base from which to explore the island.

Image: Wahyu Pratama
Image: Wahyu Pratama

The villas are scattered across a cascading hill: each has its own terrace, private plunge pool and valley view. The open-air restaurant offers a mix of Indonesian and Western fare. “We wanted people to feel at one with nature, rather than being boxed in,” says Claire Gontard, who co-founded Somewhere Lombok with her sister, Valia (pictured above). “We are lucky to have unobstructed views of the entire bay.”
somewherelombok.com

For more on Indonesia and other sunny destinations, pick up a copy of‘The Escapist’, on newsstands now.

Bottoms up: Espinosa Rioja

Life of the table

In 2020, sisters Clara and Patricia Espinosa revived their family’s wine brand, Señorío de Librares, with the goal of breathing new life into their vineyards (writes Maria Papakleanthous). The third-generation winemakers cultivate native grapes in Spain’s La Rioja province – tempranillo, graciano, grenache and mazuelo – for the production of their red wines; the fresh and fruity El Marujo, however, is made entirely from organic tempranillo.

This bottle takes its name from the Spanish term maruja, used to describe gossipy small-town housewives. “It’s a wine that wants to be everywhere, at every table, in every chat,” says Patricia. “El Marujo is funny, cute, charming and cheeky.” It’s best enjoyed slightly chilled, accompanied by blue cheese.
slibrares.com

If you’re a fan of fine storytelling and pristine print, pick up a Monoclesubscription. Support our independent journalism and get an unrivalled read on the world today. Have a super Sunday.

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