Food and Drink

The inventive cuisine of chef Maksut Askar was recognised with a Michelin in 2022 but this sleek, friendly restaurant has been a favourite of discerning locals and well- informed visitors for more than a decade. Askar’s artistic flair means that he pays as much attention to his plating as visitors’ palates. His signature dishes, including muhammara, a walnut-and-pepper paste, are modern spins on the Arabic- influenced dishes of Hatay, his home region and Turkey’s culinary capital. Neolokal’s setting is stunning too: its floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the Golden Horn and the old neighbourhoods of Balat beyond.
neolokal.com

The meyhane (literally “alcohol house”) is the ultimate Turkish night out: a heady brew of grilled fish, mezze, raki, conversation and song. Tables are big and plates can be ordered as when you need them – some meyhane evenings can last all night. For quality food and true taste of Istanbul, head to Nevizade, a street of meyhane close to Beyoglu’s fish market, where the tables are packed in close enough that you might end up raising a toast to your neighbours.
Huseynaga, 34435, Beyoglu

Whereas other countries turn to kebab for post-pub food, the Turks have a delicious secret: kokorec. This concoction of sweetmeats and spices is also slow cooked on a rotary but the result, served crumbled between fluffy white bread, is closer to haggis than kebab. You’ll find places serving it everywhere after dark to be eaten at tiny tables with a side of ayran, a salted yoghurt drink. You can ask for your kokorec to be acisiz (not spicy) or acili (spicy). And, if you still need an extra kick, you’ll find pots of punchy little jalapeños on your table. Nothing mops up an Istanbul night out faster.

Musa Dagdeviren, the proprietor of this bustling canteen, describes himself as a “food anthropologist”, dedicated to tracing Turkey’s rich gastronomical roots. The concept at Ciya is deceptively canteen-like; you pick your dishes from the glass counters at the entrance, take a seat and, within seconds, your banquet is brought to your table. Dagdeviren’s team execute flawless modern takes on classics from across Anatolia: stuffed vine leaves, casseroles of lamb and quince, buttery rice and courgette fritters. Finish it off with a cup of strong tea and a piece of the perfect house baklava with ice cream.
Caferaga Mah, Guneslibahce Sk, No 44, Kadikoy

This tiny cocktail bar has built up a huge following and on busy nights customers spill onto the pavements to get a taste of mixologist Burak Ayaz’s creations. Herbs and potions are dried, mashed, charred and smoked, steeped in alcohol and served up with panache. The drinks are inspired by Anatolian ingredients and flavours, and the compact menu changes regularly. Arrive early to nab a spot at the bar and watch Ayaz and his team perform their magic.
Caferaga, Dr Esat Isik Cd, No 30 D:C, 34710