Istanbul travel guide
The editors’ selection
Topkapi Palace, Historic Peninsula
When Ottoman Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror captured Constantinople, he bagged the best bit of real estate for himself. Topkapi is more of a district than a palace, perched on the tip of the historic peninsula. For four centuries the mechanisms of the Ottoman state churned within its walls but Topkapi’s turrets and domes endure as the symbol of Istanbul. Set aside a whole day to stroll through its courtyards, gardens, hammams, the harem, barracks, ministries and living quarters. The city’s excellent archaeological museum is next door but some of its collections are unmatched by the Topkapi’s Iznik tiles that still plaster its walls.
Cankurtaran, 34122, Fatih
Karakoy Lokantasi, Karakoy
We were dismayed when this lunchtime staple lost its home to the continuing renovation of the Karakoy district but it has found new premises nearby and managed to recreate its old magic. The iconic interior of deep-blue tiles and white tablecloths matches the elegance of its menu, which includes takes on Turkish classics served in tradesmen’s canteens: think vegetables stuffed with meat, smoky dips and rich stews. Sultan’s Delight – slow cooked cubes of beef on a bed of charred aubergine mash – is the one that keeps us coming back.
karakoylokantasi.com
Pera Palace Hotel, Beyoglu
Agatha Christie, international spies and Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of Turkey, are among the characters who have stayed at this legendary establishment. Tucked in the heart of Pera, Istanbul’s oldest nightlife quarter, the 130-year-old hotel is a living museum that whisks you back to the belle époque as soon as you pass through its doors. It was built to accommodate the well-heeled passengers of the Orient Express and its décor still rings of the golden era of travel. Check into one of the deluxe rooms or suites, each named after and inspired by one of the luminary figures who have stayed here – Ernest Hemingway or Mata Hari? If you’re not staying the night, stop by for a drink at the lobby bar.
perapalace.com