London travel guide
Food and drink
London’s magnetic allure has tempted some of the world’s most promising chefs and restaurateurs to the UK capital. But it’s not the high-profile crowd pullers or big-brand openings that fill our culinary hit list. Instead we have hand-picked the best independent and unique venues for different occasions.
KOL, Marylebone
Chef Santiago Lastra has made an impression on London’s Marylebone since opening Mexican restaurant Kol in 2020. The 56-cover Seymour Street space close to Marble Arch (with its intimate chef’s table) serves some of the UK capital’s most inventive Mexican fare made with the finest British ingredients. Be sure to leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy it as Lastra's tasting menu doesn't cater for the replete. Book well in advance but if you’re passing then the Mezcaleria is happy to receive walk-ins – the sloe mezcal and an array of small plates from its street-food menu are a must.
kolrestaurant.com
The Nickel Bar at The Ned, Bank
Hotel bars can be solemn affairs but The Nickel Bar at The Ned offers a welcome change. The former Midland-Bank-HQ-turned-hotel has countless restaurants, a spa and member’s club. Its pillared lobby, dapper bartenders and the lavish interiors of architect Edwin “Ned” Lutyens are the perfect accompaniment to live jazz staples from the foyer’s circular central stage.
thened.com
The River Café, Hammersmith
Launched in 1987 as a canteen for her architect husband’s next-door studio, Ruth Rogers’ café is an ever-popular Thames-side restaurant in the West London suburb of Hammersmith. Despite being self-taught, Rogers won a Michelin star in 1997, which the River Café retains, so booking in advance is advised. Inside the 120-cover space are colourful and crisp interiors – including an open oven with a bright pink cover – all designed by Ruth’s husband, Richard Rogers. The menu changes daily depending on the produce available but whatever’s in stock, the pasta dishes are London’s most inventive. For pudding we’d suggest pitting your appetite against the signature Chocolate Nemesis, an indulgently rich dark-chocolate torte.
Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, W6 9HA
+44 (0)20 7386 4200
rivercafe.co.uk
The Dusty Knuckle, Dalston
To describe The Dusty Knuckle’s following as cult would be to undersell the bakery’s immense popularity – and how good its loaves are. Started in 2014 by Max Tobias and Rebecca Oliver (later joined by Daisy Terry), the firm moved to a shipping container before taking a space in Dalston. Its potato-sourdough loaves, rye bread and focaccia sold like, well, hot cakes and found their way onto the tables of London’s best restaurants. The unassuming site also hosts bread-making courses, pasta classes and languorous brunches complete with bacon sandwiches, cinnamon-flecked buns or orange-and-poppy-seed swirls. The bakery is also a social enterprise that helps vulnerable youngsters find their way back to meaningful work, employing 50 people and turning out 5,000 loaves a year.
thedustyknuckle.com
Bar Termini, Soho
If you are in search of an aperitif or espresso to recharge you, then this 1950s Italian-inspired gem, named after Rome’s main train station, serves classic drinks and cocktails in an intimate setting off the bustling Old Compton Street. The highlights are its four house negroni – classico, superiore, rosato and robusto – that are served chilled in custom glasses, as well as platters of prosciutto crudo and burrata. The best part? It’s open until 01.00 on Fridays and Saturdays.
bar-termini-soho.com
The Monocle Café, Marylebone
Monocle doesn’t just write and broadcast about fine service and good hospitality; we invest in it too. Since 2013 our London café has served the neighbourhood’s best espressos and silkiest flat whites alongside a selection of light bites, sandwiches, snacks and cinnamon buns. Pop in for a copy of the latest issue, a selection of our products (there’s more of that a few doors down at The Monocle Shop or Trunk Clothiers) and to say “hello” to the Monocle team. cafe.monocle.com
Images: Charlie Mckay, Jason Larkin, Benjamin McMahon, Tina Hillier