Fashion: Briefings / Global
Smart moves
As autumn ushers in a return to work for many, opportunities to stay active abound, whether cycling into the office or embarking on a business trip. Here we round up some of the best gear for life on the go, from crease-proof technical suits to the sturdiest parkas.
Goldwin
Japan
Japan’s Goldwin has a reputation as one of the world’s finest skiwear manufacturers and is the Swedish national ski team’s brand of choice. Recently the label has been translating its technical know-how into urban wardrobe staples, from parkas to sporty tailoring. We have our eye on the label’s new beige parka for autumn, designed in collaboration with Italian ready-to-wear label oamc.
Q&A: Todd Snyder
Creative director,Woolrich
US label Woolrich has been writing a fresh chapter under new creative director Todd Snyder, the menswear maverick who also runs his eponymous label from New York. Snyder is working with Woolrich’s design teams in Milan, New York and Tokyo to create the label’s heritage and technical collections (Woolrich Black Label) and add a stronger luxury flavour to the range. Here he tells monocle how performance wear is infiltrating urban wardrobes and discusses Woolrich’s potential to lead the sector.
Why are you working with Woolrich?
I was excited to work with a brand that has a heritage of almost 200 years and pretty much invented outdoors apparel. My idea is about fusing this heritage with modernity, with street, with luxury. I also saw an opportunity to use nature as a muse and design garments for all seasons. It’s about an active lifestyle, whether you’re in the countryside, the mountains or the city.
Have people been engaging with technical clothing in new ways?
It used to be all about athleisure but now outdoors wear is the new streetwear – people are wearing technical clothing to the office, maybe even to go to dinner. Recently, many people have embraced hiking, camping, fishing; activities that were left unexplored in the past. It’s a natural evolution and that’s what inspires me. We need to keep telling new stories.
Tell us about your new collection.
It was all about the Pacific Northwest and embodying the outdoors lifestyle. Woolrich is known for heavy parkas, so I’ve also been thinking about how to lighten things up. You’ll find a lot of track shorts, as well as lightweight cashmere shirts. My aim is to take classic silhouettes and rework them by using innovative fabrics or adding new details.
woolrich.com
Man-tle
Australia
Aida Kim and Larz Harry, co-founders of Perth-based Man-tle, met in Tokyo while working for Japanese label Comme des Garçons. They still tap into their network of Japanese makers to produce daily staples such as slub denim hats, gabardine pants and durable canvas bags. Man-tle’s signature waterproof fabrics have been designed to get better with wear, due to an intricate hand-dyeing process.
On X Beams
Switzerland & Japan
Tennis-inspired style has risen in popularity this year. It’s why Swiss performance brand On and Japanese label Beams have joined forces to offer their own take on the look. Informed by the green in the Wimbledon logo, the new capsule includes T-shirts, shorts, windbreakers and trainers that feature the Swiss and Japanese flags, perforated panels and thick white soles.
on.com; beams.co.jp
Belstaff
UK
Belstaff is marking 100 years of kitting out Brits with sturdy outdoors wear by looking back to its beginnings, when UK manufacturing was enjoying better days. Established in Stoke-on-Trent, the first Belstaff factory was awarded contracts by British armed forces and Antarctica research expeditions. During peacetime, the brand shifted focus to motor racing and designed its renowned Trialmaster jacket.
Belstaff’s current offering of elegant parkas and quilted jackets reflects its outdoors roots. UK mills remain the primary source of waxed cotton fabric, while some of its knitwear is still produced locally. “I want to refocus on Britishness,” says chief brand officer Jodie Harrison. “There are pockets of expertise remaining here, including textile brands and Northampton shoemakers such as Grenson.”
Belstaff ceo Fran Millar echoes this. “The biggest obstacle to our operation in the UK is a lack of factories, skills and talent,” she says. “There is a need for government investment; we all need to take responsibility.”
belstaff.com
Montblanc
Germany
For weekends and short trips, a compact duffel bag is a far more elegant choice than a rolling suitcase. Montblanc offers a great variety of roomy weekender bags, including the 149 travel series. The totes, which are made from shiny calfskin leather, feature multiple pocket compartments for extra ease while packing, as well as an external lock and key closure for additional security. We recommend the burgundy hue, featuring a striking sfumato (shaded) effect that has been manually applied to the leather.
montblanc.com
Mykita
Germany
Mykita captures the German flair for technical innovation by engineering fashionable frames, manufactured in-house, with high-quality optics. We have our eye on the brown Gia model that features a retro geometric frame and a patented spiral hinge – so your shades won’t snap in your suitcase, no matter how full it is.
mykita.com
Comme Si
USA
Open any fashion stylist’s top drawer and you’ll likely find socks by Comme Si, the New York-based label by Jenni Lee, who’s introducing luxury into the everyday ritual of getting dressed. If you’re an active type, opt for the Cycling socks, crafted using a high-performance yarn.
commesi.com
Baracuta
UK
Outerwear specialist Baracuta is probably best known for its classic G9 Harrington jackets, created in the late 1930s, but this autumn the brand will debut its first dedicated womenswear line. The range features elegant trench coats and new iterations of the original G9 silhouette. Our pick is this vibrant checked coat, made from winter-ready wool. It’s a hardwearing yet elegant choice.
baracuta.com
