Hosts with the most

Based in Amsterdam, Elias is the founder of Autumn Sonata, a line of towels and table linens launched in 2022, which uses antique prints to create heritage-inspired textiles

“A rule of thumb for Christmas entertaining? More is more. I always invite a few too many people, make too much food (including multiple desserts), pour a lot of wine and gradually turn the music up until it’s a little too loud, in the hope that dinner will transform into a party. Something that I don’t like at a festive gathering? Cold bare feet. Shoes should stay on unless the house is well-carpeted.

I like to have something light to drink before eating. A heavier digestif, such as cognac, should follow with dessert. Having said this, it’s important to know whether or not you are a good cook. If not, please spare your guests and order a takeaway.

So many dishes say winter to me but I particularly love brussel sprouts, roasted squash with pomegranate and chicories with herbs.

I’ll be in New York this winter and will inevitably end up at one of my favourite restaurants, La Mercerie, for indulgent dishes, festive drinks and an altogether delightful atmosphere. As much as I love white tablecloths, I have had to move on after one too many trips to the dry cleaners. I adore using patterned table linens from my brand, Autumn Sonata. I couldn’t survive without decorating a gingerbread house. I plan and gather inspiration all year round until I’m ready to execute.”

Li is the Hong-Kong based co-founder of Leading Nation, a hospitality group behind several fine-dining establishments across Asia.

“Excessive formality is something that I don’t want around the table. I like to keep it relaxed and fun; there’s no need for stiff manners. The host should always have one memorable bottle of wine to hand.

Roasted bone-in prime rib is the dish that always signals the holidays to me. The table needs ample wine glasses and enough plates and cutlery for each guest to ensure that there’s no mixing and matching. I don’t like fruit cake or panettone, so you won’t see them on my table. Maybe there’s a reason why they’re only served at Christmas. Family game night, which mainly involves Vietnamese mahjong, is the one thing that I couldn’t do without.”

Gent is a painter and the founder of Sessions Art Club in London’s Clerkenwell and Boath House hotel in the Scottish Highlands.

“Candlelight is essential for a Christmas party, as is lots of hard liquor to loosen up your guests. You want gossip, laughter and tears of joy. The playlist is also key. It’s probably the first thing that I put together as it sets the mood for the evening. In terms of who’s coming to dinner, it’s all about intimacy and how much you want to squeeze into a short window of time. It has to be the closest of friends and family. You must adore their company. It should feel as though you’re partaking in a last supper, without the death bit, of course.

When it comes to setting the table, I pick the whitest of linen tablecloths because I love to see how filthy it gets by the end of dinner. I also always lay the table with napkins bought from Auldearn Antiques in the Highlands, which are embroidered with the initials of a dead aunt from Dundee.

My food intolerances include any dish cooked from a recipe on social media that isn’t made by an actual chef and any light bulb that has more than 1.5 watts. I feel a deep sense of love when I drag out the raclette machine. I serve it with grilled bacon, sausages and mushrooms. There are also piles of pickles and crudités, as well as a Swiss dip that my wife learned how to make while growing up in Geneva. The recipe is a secret.

I love the scrambling and constant movement of cooking and eating raclette. People waiting for the cheese to melt. The shame and horror as you try to pour it before it is ready.

For an aperitif and digestif, I’ll have a martini made by Indre from Sessions Arts Club, followed by a strong and creamy Irish coffee.

The tables that I’ll be booking this winter are The Yellow Bittern and Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill for late-December oysters and a prawn cocktail. The thing that I won’t be doing? Tuning in to the King’s speech.”

Linley is a Trinidadian-Swiss broadcast journalist and former Vatican correspondent now based in Zürich. She’s also a regular on Monocle Radio.

“Dancing flames in the fireplace, candles on the dining table, warm petit fours to welcome guests in from the cold and an abundance of comfort food and drinks all say Christmas to me. 

I have fond memories of sunny Christmases celebrated at my grandparents’ home in Port of Spain, Trinidad and Tobago. My brothers, cousins and I would gorge on pastelles [steamed cornmeal patties filled with mincemeat and capers and doused in pepper sauce] and doubles [cumin-and-turmeric fritters], eaten with curried chickpeas and tangy tamarind chutney.

Aperitivo? Always. Preferably sourdough bruschette topped off with freshly pressed olive oil, anchovies and burrata, and accompanied by with a glass of Tuscan wine. I’m heading to Tuscany before Christmas this year with my family. We’ll be visiting our favourite trattoria, Da Sandra. The owner, Sandra, makes all the pasta dishes herself, from fresh truffle tagliolini to gnocchi with porcini mushrooms and sautéed pumpkin. But our family favourite is her fillet with paper-thin slices of lard. It is quite simply melt-in-your-mouth glorious.

Sometimes, we have fish fondue for dinner on Christmas Eve, before heading out to Midnight Mass at St Peter’s Basilica if we are in Rome. We set the table with vintage fish knives, long-stemmed forks, earthenware pots for the bubbling broth, lots of home-made sauces and several platters of raw fish and shellfish. A traditional panettone is a must at Christmas. But a tasty Trinidadian black cake infused with dark rum also rings in the holiday season for our family. All I want for Christmas? A new Monocle tote bag.”

Aires is a Porto-based designer who was responsible for the city’s peerless graphic rebrand.

“Aperitif? Digestif? Both, with lots of unashamed joy, and, more often than not, a singsong. My only intolerance is last-minute shopping. It’s a waste of time, energy and money. Bad choices get made in a hurry.

As I’m from Portugal, the food that reminds me most of the holidays is cod. Growing up, however, my mother also used to make deep-fried, bow-shaped sweet pastries. My go-to winter restaurant to book in Porto is Cafeína. After dinner, I usually drop in on my favourite bar, Passos Manuel, in an old converted cinema.

For Christmas, I’d really like to finish my book. It’s about the design collaboration that I have been working on for the past 16 years with Esporão, one of Portugal’s biggest and oldest wine estates.

The only thing that I don’t want to see around the table is mobile phones. Christmas dinner is special, so I like to be able to look people in the eyes while conversing with them. It’s a time of year when I see people who I might have struggled to otherwise, so we sometimes have a lot to catch up on – a year’s worth of stories. I don’t want to ruin that time with screens.

I have a very special embroidered tablecloth that I only use during the holidays. It is from the island of Madeira and it took nearly three years to complete. When I put it down, it signals that the table is ready to be set. I’d love it if Christmas happened more frequently. It’s a catch-22. Perhaps it would make the holiday seem less special. But it would be nice to try to adopt these joyful family moments into our daily lives as much as possible.”

Carriani is the co-founder of Rose Bakery group, the outposts of which include popular berths at Le Bon Marché and DSM Paris.

“The rules of basic hosting are to be friendly and a good listener; you should be happy to be talking to your guests. Aperitifs are also essential and should always be accompanied by goodies fresh from the oven. My winter treat of choice is a good bottle of English sparkling wine. When it comes to setting the table, I never forget the essentials: salt and a good bottle of red.”

Tan is a former columnist at ‘The Straits Times’ and an award-winning food writer, cookbook author and cookery teacher.

“When it comes to hosting, pacing yourself is crucial. Whether you’re a host or a guest, quality is more important than quantity: good parties over more parties. In terms of food, I am spiritually allergic to poorly cooked turkey. It has to be marinated in some sort of spice paste. A really good deep-dish pie with a curry filling is what says Christmas to me. Tandoori-turkey malai tikka kebabs are the best, as is a really good traditional pandoro, which I slowly eke out – thin slice by thin slice – over the course of December. When it comes to setting the table, the less fuss, the better.

If I could have my own way, I would line it with banana leaves and make everyone eat with their hands. I can do without the weird jumpers too, which, thankfully, I don’t have to deal with in Singapore.”

Clothing designer and retailer Spencer founded his smart menswear brand in London in 2002 and recently opened a new shop on Marylebone’s Chiltern Street.

“Having some European family, there are two sets of rules for hosting at Christmas: European customs and English table arrangements. The host changes every year – we’re in Miami this year and, perhaps, Warwickshire the next – but cooking duties are always shared between different family members. 

For me, Christmas is about bringing together the old, the young and those who are usually on their own. Dinners and festivities are a time to connect with one another – and everyone should be invited. We usually have about 15 people around the table. 

I never have turkey for Christmas. Instead, I always opt for a good roast beef. My family likes to decorate the table with a simple tablecloth, dried fruit and cinnamon sticks. It’s seasonal, simple and makes the room smell good.”

Chow is the founder of Pass It On, a design studio, gifting platform and brand of eco-friendly homeware based in Singapore.

“I believe in the three “R”s of hosting: respect, relax, and reuse. Respect for my guests’ tastes, relax to let conversations flow and, of course, reuse everything, from upcycled tableware to repurposed decor. I have an intolerance for plastic cutlery and single-use anything. The worst Christmas tradition? Plastic toys that get forgotten by New Year’s Day. I’d rather skip the gimmicks.

For drinks, I’ll open with something light and refreshing, such as Glug Glug’s vinho verde, and close with a digestif from Australian wine-pouch brand A Glass Of, which champions the work of independent vintners. For dinner, I’ll make a squash risotto with regional produce and garnish it with fresh herbs from the balcony garden. It’s a dish that always reminds me of winter.

The restaurant that I can’t wait to try this Christmas is Somma in Singapore [see number 11]. I’m not a huge drinker but if I do go out for cocktails, it’ll be at Fura. What I most want for Christmas is a two-week holiday and a visit to Kamikatsu, Japan’s “zero-waste” town.”

Fadillioglu is a Turkish interior designer based between Istanbul, London and Doha. In 2009, she became the first woman to design a mosque.

“When it comes to hosting, I enjoy mixing timeless tableware from brands such as Christofle, Baccarat, Rosenthal, Wedgwood and Ginori 1735 with vibrant, artisanal plates from the likes of Levant. Hand-embroidered tablecloths paired with colourful centrepieces from designers such as Carolina Irving add a wonderful dimension to the table.

I prefer to prolong the pre-dinner part of any festive gathering to allow for genuine interactions with my guests. The restaurants that I have designed all have lounge areas where people can enjoy their drinks before eating. This fosters a certain warmth that encourages people to continue on to their table. This winter, I’ll be dining at Canton Blue in The Peninsula. I’ll also visit Chiltern Firehouse for drinks and food.”

Pugliese chef Febbrile is the Italian restaurateur behind Fico in Singapore’s East Coast Park and Somma in the city’s just-opened New Bahru development.

“Hosting is all about the little details that bring warmth and connection to a gathering. For me, a non-negotiable for every occasion is fresh farm flowers. I love chamomile, olive branches and artichoke flowers. I want to be with people who are on the same wavelength and value connection. Relationships deepen when we can share plates and conversation without expecting anything in return. We always make sure to have a selection of panettoni. They sit under the tree until Christmas. We usually end up with so many that they become a breakfast staple right through until February. My dad absolutely adores dipping his panettone into milk.

I love Christmas and everything that comes with it, from ugly sweaters to Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas is You”. Having said that, I have spent the past decade away from home, so I have learned to adapt to Christmas in Singapore without the usual traditions.”

Alessi is president of Italian design company Alessi Spa, which was established in 1921.

“I’ll be booking a table at Il Clandestino in Stresa this winter. Stresa is a small town on Lake Maggiore, which is crowded in the summer but quiet in the winter. Chef Franco Marasco offers the best fish in the area. To drink, I’ll start with a kir royale. Then a glass of good wine, preferably pinot noir, followed by grappa or aged calvados. My food intolerance? Tomatoes. French chef Alain Chapel’s chocolate cake is the dish that says winter to me.

This Christmas, I would like to be with my books. I’m proud of my collection, which includes titles on the history of my region, Lake Orta, Lake Maggiore and the valleys of Ossola. I have been collecting them since I was a teenager and now there are about 12,000 books and documents in my library, which I plan to make into a foundation. Aside from the newest pieces from Alessi, I’ll line the dinner table with a selection of old silver objects by British and Austrian designers Christopher Dresser and Josef Hoffmann.

In my opinion, the worst Christmas tradition is being with too many people. My mother, Germana, used to organise dinner at home for the entire family, which involved about 40 of us of all ages. She believed it was her duty and did it extremely well. But I found it unbearable and I escaped as quickly as possible.”

Olvera is a Mexican chef at the helm of Pujol in Mexico City, as well as restaurants in New York and Oaxaca City.

“Nowadays, I like to keep Christmas celebrations within a close circle of people. I also like going to houses rather than restaurants. I normally have a dinner party for my close team of collaborators and friends. During this time, I tend to visit Los Cabos, Mexico City and New York, which are my three favourite cities to spend the holidays in.

If for whatever reason you don’t want to host a party, it’s OK to skip a year of hospitality. That’s the beauty of Christmas and New Year; you get to do it all again the next year.

I like to start with some champagne or a non-alcoholic agua fresca with a dash of sparkling water, so you still get that feeling of celebration. After dinner, I’ll have what’s called a sobre mesa: time spent talking in the company of friends and family. It’s always nice to do this with a glass of mezcal or Japanese whiskey in hand. Romeritos, a leafy green herb that grows during winter in Mexico, always reminds me of Christmas. It is traditionally served with dried fish, prawns, potatoes and nopales [cactus]. There’s a lot of mole in it. I also like anything that is roasted. It’s something that tells me we’re in the Christmas season. I’ll often throw a bird, ham or mushrooms in the oven. I decorate the table with beautiful placemats made from the threads of Oaxacan agave. I like to do things family-style, so it’s important to have nice cookware. That way, you can leave the food in the pots that you cook it in. My mother used to make bacalhau, dried salt cold, which she would form with her hands into a paste. I prefer to keep the fish in bigger chunks.

In terms of restaurants, I enjoy going to Máximo Bistrot in Mexico City during winter. Eduardo “Lalo” García’s cooking is heavily influenced by French cuisine, so you can expect everything to be a little buttery. There’s also a lot of roasted produce. If I’m in New York, I’ll probably be at the bar at The Bowery Hotel.”

Schelling is a Swiss chef who has worked at El Bulli, The Fat Duck in the UK and Ryugin in Tokyo. He’s also a regular recipe contributor for Monocle.

“Bitter-leaf salad with slices of Sicilian orange is a must during winter. I enjoy hosting large dinners with handwritten place cards laid around the table. I’ll start the evening with an aperitif from Ghia mixed with agramonte gin, ginger and a little bit of cardamom.

My main food intolerance is fake butter – it’s a weird concept when you’re from cow country. When it comes to booking a restaurant this winter, I would recommend trying out Via Carota, a charming Italian trattoria in New York.”

Ngo Mpii is an entrepreneur, author and creative director. She is the founder of Little Africa, a Paris-based cultural agency that seeks to amplify African heritage in the French capital.

“As a new parent, all I want for Christmas is sleep and no cooking duties. Everyone is welcome for Christmas dinner. It is mainly a celebration for family members but it should also be offered to those who are considered to be extended family, which includes partners, friends and colleagues. This makes for a more interesting evening, with added stories and laughs.

I will, of course, have both an aperitif and a digestif. As we say in Paris, “C’est la base” [“It’s necessary”]. Make sure to leave plenty of time for conversation before the meal; an apéro is not an apéro if it lasts for less than an hour. Poulet DG,a special dish from Cameroon made with chicken, plantain and vegetables, always reminds me of Christmas.”

Sándor is the founder of Budapest-based fashion brand Nanushka. The label has become a flag-bearer for high-quality Central European craftmanship and design.

“I love to add volume and proportion to my tablescapes. I use chrome napkin rings and bold candle holders to offset an otherwise very simple, classic and neutral setting. I also have a large collection of vintage ceramic plates and bowls. Collecting vintage pieces has been a passion of mine for a long time. I have amassed them during my travels over the years.

Something that’s important to me is making my guests feel at home. I want them to be able to relax, so soft furnishings and comfortable seats are important, as is the right amount of candlelight. Mood lighting can really change the atmosphere of a space.

My favourite winter meal is túrógombóc, a Hungarian dumpling dish made from sweet cheese that’s boiled and rolled in breadcrumbs. It’s rich and delicious, and always feels like a treat. It gives me the sweetest feeling of nostalgia.

It’s tradition that we spend Christmas with my parents in Marbella. Since they are retired, they live there during the winter. Spending time with them is sacred and it’s something that I look forward to every year.”

Juhl is the co-founder and managing director of Copenhagen-based textile company Tekla, which creates soft furnishings, pyjamas, sheets and throws.

“My advice for the holidays? Be generous. Take the time to prepare things well. The food and the details are what make hosting fun. Linens are such an important part of a good table – luckily, Tekla makes great ones.

In the lead-up to the big day, Danes usually spend time with friends – old and new – and colleagues at a julefrokost [Christmas lunch]. In my family, our favourite festive dish is caramelised potatoes. It’s the perfect partner to the duck, turkey or pork that often comes with it. My grandmother makes amazing braised cabbage too. Schnapps is the digestif that helps us through the pickled herring and the fatty pork. You have to be careful though: for the inexperienced, it can knock your socks off.

All I want for Christmas is new pots and pans. And peace and harmony, of course. In Scandinavia, there’s a tradition of singing and dancing around the tree after Christmas dinner. I’m excited for my daughter to be old enough to do this.”

Rosso is the editorial director and cultural-events advisor of Milan’s globally renowned design fair Salone del Mobile.

“For us, the magic rule is to have a maximum of eight people around our dining table. It’s the perfect number for a good conversation. All the other conventions can go out the window. We even talk politics at dinner.

It is always nice to meet new people. Friends of friends are welcome at our home. We try to match people up with others coming from different spheres of our life. Those who aren’t welcome are those who don’t have much of an appetite.

We like to host long dinners followed by a spot of limoncello, which we make from green lemons grown on the Amalfi coast. Frozen meals are, of course, a no. Pumpkin risotto with chestnuts is always a winter favourite.

This year, I’ll be booking a table at Trattoria della Gloria in Milan, which is run by Tommaso Melilli and his amazing crew. Then I’ll have a negroni sbagliato at Bar Basso. For Christmas, I’d like a secular version of a presepe, a nativity scene. ”

Melbourne-based Chee is the founder of Never Too Small, a design media company that spotlights smaller spaces occupied and decorated by renowned designers.

“We decided to start a new tradition by hosting a Christmas lunch in our cosy 40 sq m studio apartment. It was my partner’s idea to invite people over who find themselves alone during the holidays.

Melbourne, much like London, is a city where people come and go, so each Christmas, we welcome regulars as well as new friends. There are funny people, loud folks, introverts and extroverts – anyone who isn’t afraid of open conversation and can handle a bit of drama and fun. And as for who isn’t coming? Those who dislike dogs.

My partner is English and enjoys eating a roast, so I’m considering a West-meets-East feast for this year’s gathering: traditional roast pork belly with sweet soy-and-ginger sauce.”

Ravazzolo Botner is the director of one of Brazil’s leading modern art galleries, A Gentil Carioca, which has branches in Rio de Janeiro and São Paolo. 

“Our collector friends from Naples are coming to dinner this year. They are great cooks and like to make struffoli, a special Neapolitan Christmas pastry, made from fried dough and honey. They also treat us to spaghetti with fish, minestra maritata soup and stromboli [bread stuffed with cheese and salami]. I use my trips to Milan as an excuse to bring back panettone. I have never found a good one in Rio.

I don’t really like Christmas decorations here: the fake snow and people dressed up as Santa seems a bit silly when it is 40C outside. It doesn’t make much sense. But the contrast is fun to see. Though I really think that Santa Claus should wear a bikini here.”