Less is more

For jeweller Gaia Repossi, it seems that creativity is genetic: her great-grandfather founded the Repossi jewellery brand in Turin in the 1950s. After studying painting and archaeology in Paris, she began to help her father at Repossi’s Place Vendôme atelier, and in 2007 she joined the business as creative and artistic director. Today, Gaia applies principles of art and architecture to her work, often breaking the rules of conventional jewellery-making to create contemporary pieces. It’s a breath of fresh air in an industry that is often bogged down by tradition. Access to Repossi’s rich archives also means that Gaia has unlimited visual references to inform her work.

Repossi’s flair for design translates to the way that she dresses, which is both elegant and conceptual. Here, she shares some of her biggest influences and explains why comfort is key in both jewellery and fashion. — L

Do you have any rules when it comes to getting dressed?
Follow your instincts. You should go for things that suit you. I prefer a more androgynous style and opt for a lot of menswear. I like to pay attention to what’s going on in the fashion world and make an effort to understand the trends. Ultimately, however, I focus on the brands that resonate with my own aesthetic. Fashion can feel very overwhelming and, at times, superficial.

Who are some of the designers you connect with?
The work of Bottega Veneta creative director Matthieu Blazy is fascinating. He plays with leather and creates new silhouettes. His clothes have become a uniform for me. I’m also drawn to Pieter Mulier’s designs for Alaïa and the way that they sculpt the body. I wear a lot of Phoebe Philo too. Her work is elegant but also feels comfortable and casual.

Does the way you approach jewellery design reflect your taste in fashion?
It’s all linked. The key to making jewellery relevant nowadays is to choose more contemporary shapes and silhouettes. Fashion speaks to the women of today and tomorrow, so why can’t jewellery do the same? The materials might be more expensive than those for making clothes but it doesn’t mean that you have to make classic shapes.

What advice would you give to someone coming to Repossi for the first time?
You’ll probably choose a ring as your first piece from us. Having a signature ring on each hand is a modern way of wearing jewellery. I’m also a big fan of ear cuffs. Jewellery should be comfortable and light. When you make the shape of a piece more abstract, it feels softer and more enjoyable to wear – just as with clothes. Comfort allows you to be yourself. If you’re constricted, you can’t move freely or express yourself.

How do your shopping habits change with the seasons?
I don’t buy that many things, just a few key pieces per season. I prefer to shop for vintage clothes as it is a more playful experience. I collect a lot of Gucci pieces from the Tom Ford era. They’re simple, well-cut and a little strange – perfect if you don’t want to dress like everyone else. We live in a world of [social media] influencing, where getting dressed is now a job. I try to stick to my own ideas, instead of conforming to trends. I don’t think that we’re interested in looking at products that way any more.