Fashion
Quality not quantity
The European summer menswear season kicks off in London this weekend. The men’s event has had a tough time recently: it’s lost marquee names to other cities (and to women’s fashion weeks) and dropped from four days to three. This season the trend continues, with standout talents Grace Wales Bonner and Craig Green both absent. Yet there is an important pool of designers – including E Tautz, Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton, Nicholas Daley and Martine Rose – for whom it still makes sense to show here. That’s because they design specifically for men (so can’t decamp to women’s weeks) and have a distinctly British approach, whether in their manufacturing practices – E Tautz owns UK factories; Lou Dalton works with Scottish makers – or their aesthetic: E Tautz’ fashionable tailoring, Martine Rose’s experimental designs and Nicholas Daley’s riffs on London subcultures. The schedule is diminished, yes, but there are still names worth watching.