Opinion / Jamie Waters
What’s in store for Asia’s luxury brands?
In an interview published this week, Ravi Thakran – the group chairman of LVMH South and Southeast Asia, Australia and Middle East – laments the lack of Asian luxury fashion brands. “We have the finest of craftsmen but something is missing, whether it is the packaging, presentation or storytelling,” he told the South China Morning Post. Japan may be responsible for long-established heavyweights including Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, yet it’s tough to pinpoint the next Asian global star. What is that “something” that’s missing?
There are cultural factors specific to different nations at play, from the tendency of Japanese brands to focus on the domestic market to Chinese brands struggling with the perception of their manufacturing being low end. But there are some unifying factors too. Being a successful luxury label requires an ability to conjure an aspirational world: one of the key ways to do this is via fantastical runway shows. However Asia’s fashion weeks – in Tokyo, Shanghai and Seoul – do not have anything like the global heft of their European counterparts, meaning brands need to work that much harder (or go to Paris or Milan) to get noticed. Moreover, building a glossy image costs a lot and most investment from Asian luxury behemoths tends to go to western brands. Chinese conglomerates often choose to snap up European rather than domestic labels: Fosun bought French house Lanvin and Italian brand Caruso; Shandong Ruyi owns France’s Cerruti 1881. Promising Asian designers such as Rokh (a Korean based in London) are emerging – but they need some fuel to compete on the world stage.