Opinion / Jamie Waters
Yours sincerely
There have already been some spectacular runway sets at Paris Fashion Week so far. Saint Laurent took us to a sultry night-time catwalk beside the Eiffel Tower while Dior planted a lush garden inside the Hippodrome Longchamp. By contrast, Patou, a maison that has just been relaunched by LVMH, demonstrated the power of a quieter approach. Its presentation was held in the brand’s neo-gothic headquarters in Paris’s Île de la Cité.
Guests started in the downstairs atelier – surrounded by pattern-cuttings, sketches and sewing machines – before ascending the rickety staircase to a series of light-filled rooms to see the new collection. Guillaume Henry, the artistic director, talked through his designs, which are feminine and casual (plenty of denim, party dresses and nifty high-top trainers), and more affordable than most LVMH brands. Models milled around chatting and glasses of soda water and mints were served.
It will take more than one season to establish a concrete vision for the new Patou but this was a moment of calm, intimacy and clever brand-building amid the freneticism of fashion week. Industry insiders often debate the best way for brands to connect with audiences. Arresting runway shows are effective – yet, for a fledgling brand, here was a sincere and thoughtful alternative.