Opinion / GENEVIEVE BATES
Tangible assets
On one level the tide seems to be turning for retail: the pandemic has accelerated consumers’ willingness to purchase online, even in luxury markets, where digital showrooms are becoming jazzier and the buying experience more personalised thanks to video consultations. However, a number of key luxury brands – Chanel, Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe among them – have so far refused to join the world of e-commerce. So which camp is smarter, the e-commerce joiners or the bricks-and-mortar stalwarts?
Let’s look to the apex of luxury markets: the watch trade. Multi-brand seller Watches of Switzerland’s e-commerce sales rose during lockdown, so it’s now launching a full e-commerce site for North America and, for the first time, has added Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai pieces to its existing online offering. Omega has extended the geographic reach of its site and Hublot and Ulysse Nardin both started selling some of their less expensive models directly to consumers from their websites during the pandemic.
All of this, however, is still dwarfed by Rolex, which accounts for more than half of the Watches of Switzerland group’s overall sales – all via traditional shops. Although no one was able to buy a Rolex during lockdown, the brand is stronger for it as the need to visit a Rolex or Chanel stockist adds a layer of exclusivity that can’t be matched online. It’s this limit on supply that explains the “Rolex bubble” that results in higher prices being achieved for products in auctions and secondary markets than when sold new. So whether you’re after a €150,000 watch, a Chanel bag or even a paperback book, might we suggest that you will make a more considered purchase – and value the object more – if you’ve made the journey to assess the options in a bricks-and-mortar shop.