Monocle Weekend
Edition: Sunday

We always have our ears to the ground and it was the sound system at Paris bar Bambino that first caught our attention. We also turn over a new leaf at a Madrid magazine shop, meet the intern who became the general manager of one of Switzerland’s most storied hotels and wonder why Hong Kongers have a taste for Italian food (hint: it’s the closest that many can get to the Med this year). First, a word from Tyler Brûlé.

Think of a Paris bar and you’ll most likely picture bentwood Thonet chairs, zinc counters and brusque waiters in aprons. But you won’t find these at buzzing 11th arrondissement venue Bambino, whose owner, Fabien Lombardi, has brought a more international take on going out to the French capital. “We were inspired by the festivity of Tel Aviv, the clubs of London and the jazz cafés of Tokyo,” he says. The upshot? A space that feels jovial yet grown up, with a wood-and-mirror-panelled interior, dim lighting and plenty of vinyl from Lombardi’s impressive record collection.

From 19.00 the open kitchen serves a selection of small plates for sharing: think tahini-drizzled grilled aubergine, octopus with nduja and roast-chicken sandwiches. And come late evening, the food becomes secondary and the dancing starts. If your moves need a little help, there are negronis and other cocktails, alongside craft beers, G&T and plenty of (genuinely nice) natural wine.
bambinoparis.com

Paperground, an excellent new addition to Madrid’s independent retail scene, opened its doors in May. Inside the striking yellow-fronted magazine shop in the neighbourhood of Chamberí, shoppers can choose from global publications such as Turkish bathing-inspired Hamam or UK slow-news quarterly Delayed Gratification. There’s also a selection of books focusing on art and design that showcases young Spanish publishers, including Terranova and Dalpine.

The people behind the shop are Margherita Visentini, a journalist and editor of Polpettas on Paper magazine, and photographer Aiser Rua (pictured, with Visentini), who also runs publisher Rua Ediciones. “Spain’s independent publishing scene has really grown over the past few years,” says Rua. “Paperground is a way of celebrating that.”
Calle de Medellín 4

For more of our cultural summer itinerary, pick up a copy of Monocle’s July/August issue, which is out now. Or subscribe today so you don’t miss an issue.

Monocle’s latest pop-up shop has landed at Zürich Airport. Our newest retail space, which you’ll find on the way to the A departure gates, is packed with a full range of Monocle products and some limited-edition Swiss-made goodies.

Keep an eye out for our rosé, Badi totes and, of course, plenty of fine print to keep you informed and entertained on your travels. Head to monocle.com for more.

Find us at Zürich Airport, airside, level 1, en route to the A departure gates.

Christian von Rechenberg joined Zürich’s Baur au Lac hotel as an intern more than 20 years ago. He has since risen up the ranks to become its general manager. Rechenberg hopes that his experience of working in several roles over the years will help him to steer the prestigious hotel towards a more sustainable future. Here he tells us about splashing out in the lake, cooking with fire and his penchant for pasta.

Where do we find you this weekend?
I’ll be at Baur au Lac because we’re in the final stages of our big renovation of the lobby and reception areas. The first guests experienced the new facilities last week.

What’s your ideal way to begin a Sunday – a gentle start or a jolt?
That depends on my two children. They’re three and six years old and don’t distinguish between weekdays and weekends. High energy is guaranteed.

Soundtrack of choice?
My all-time favourite song? “Otherside” by the Red Hot Chili Peppers.

What’s for breakfast?
A latte macchiato and super-fluffy pancakes (my wife’s recipe) with berries and maple syrup. Or fresh bread with home-made jam.

Any larder essentials that you can’t do without?
Pasta, in all shapes and sizes.

A Sunday culture must?
Reading more books is one of my goals for the near future. It’s the best form of digital detox.

Ideal dinner venue or menu?
A barbecue in the garden is always a winner. For special occasions, we like to do a tomahawk steak with courgettes and aubergines.

Who’s joining?
Family and friends, the more the merrier. I enjoy large tables.

A favourite sunny rosé?
Château Les Valentines’ Côtes des Provence rosé. We serve this on our beautifully refurbished Baur au Lac terrace, which overlooks the lake and Alps.

What will we not find on your Sunday table?
Sugary soft drinks. I prefer water or a nice glass of wine.

Favourite place to swim?
Davos Munts in Val Lumnezia. It’s a hidden gem in the mountains.

Your Sunday-evening routine?
It’s bubble-bath time – not for me but for the kids.

These tasty little bites are a perfect mix of salty and sweet. “For picnics, I recommend spreading a little honey with the butter on the pastry at the beginning,” says Swiss chef Ralph Schelling. “You can also do without the sesame or almonds, or use black sesame seeds. Don’t worry about the mess – you can always lick your fingers.”

Serves 4

Ingredients
4 filo pastry sheets
4 tbsps melted butter
Thyme (fresh or dried), to taste
180g feta
Honey, a drizzle to taste
1 handful of roasted almonds or sesame seeds

Method

1
Preheat the oven to 180C.

2
Unfold the filo pastry and spread with the melted butter and sprinkle with fresh or dried thyme.

3
Cut the feta into small triangles or 3cm cubes and wrap in the filo pastry, brushing it with a little butter so that it folds better and holds together.

4
Brush the parcels again and sprinkle with the almonds or sesame seeds. Bake the parcels for 15 minutes until they are golden brown and the kitchen smells of thyme. Drizzle a little honey over them before serving.
ralphschelling.com

For the full selection of Schelling’s picnic suggestions, pick up the July/August issue of Monocle or subscribe to access our digital editions.

Across the road from sandy Suquet beach in the historic heart of Cannes, the city’s latest hotel opening feels far removed from the glitz of the Croisette. Behind the Bauhaus-inspired façade are 45 guest rooms that blur the lines between inside and out with sea views and an abundance of natural materials: oak, recycled leather, linen. “We wanted this to be a place where guests can truly feel good,” says interior designer Raphaël Navot, who spent three years working on the project. The dolce vita continues on the roof terrace, where Israeli chef Eyal Shani rustles up market-fresh meals from across the Mediterranean. A must-try dish? Hummus with shrimp, laced with beurre noisette.
hotelbelleplage.fr

Summer holidays on the Med might still be off the menu for most Hong Kongers but a spate of new openings are offering a taste of what they’re missing (writes James Chambers). Italian delis have been popping up all over Hong Kong, with their shelves amply stocked with the kinds of imported meat, cheese and tins of spicy sardines that used to be smuggled into the city in suitcases. Several of these are offshoots of popular restaurants and have opened in tourist hot spots, from arts hub PMQ in Soho to The Peninsula Hong Kong hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. The latter’s shopping arcade used to cater to wealthy Americans and mainland Chinese but, with overseas visitors still largely absent, the French luxury boutiques and Swiss watch shops now rub shoulders with a food market that sells fresh Sorrento lemons, Sardinian beer and gelato cones.

Mercato Gourmet has opened several outlets during the pandemic and its “Gran Selezione” at The Peninsula is a cut above. Locals drop in for some bresaola and leave with some serving suggestions from the friendly Italian chap at the checkout – a refreshing break from the usual supermarket questions about membership points and plastic bags. Though no amount of salami or prosciutto can cure Hong Kong’s appetite for international travel, fans of Italian food, at least, have little to grumble about.

In the latest issue of Monocle we suggest 25 things to help you live a happier, healthier life and be a little gentler on yourself, each other and the planet. This week? We look at why some of us are feeling weak at the knees – and how to take care of them.

If it’s good for your knees, it’s good for you. Being able to meander for hours, head out for a run at dusk or dance until dawn is a beautiful thing, so do all that you can to move with grace and ease. What should you do to stay lithe? We asked Monocle’s (and our sister publication Konfekt’s) favourite medic, Dr Vera Stucki, for some advice. Here’s her verdict. “The good news first: even intensive sport does not harm the joints,” she says. “The process of degeneration is not simply a question of the quantity of the impact. On the contrary, regular exercise and physical activity have a positive effect on the knee joints.

“The secret to avoiding degenerative arthritis is simply mechanical: the hip, knee and ankle joints must be kept in their optimal axis. This is achieved through well-trained hip and femoral muscles, which stabilise and control the joints’ movements. Concave soft-shoe inner soles can exacerbate deviation of the axis; running shoes should balance out any deficits, so get some advice. A Mediterranean diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids can have a positive effect on inflammatory processes and help to prevent obesity. So far, there is no evidence that any dietary supplements can regenerate the cartilage layer. Most importantly, invest in strengthening your muscles and never stop moving.” Thanks, Dr Stucki. Have a super Sunday, all.

For more tips and ideas on improving everything from vacations to vocations, subscribe to Monocle today.