Opinion / Andrew Mueller
One too many
Last February the European Parliament rejected proposals to adorn the labels on wine bottles with health warnings similar to those that warn smokers of the dangers of tobacco. Among those especially delighted were Italy’s MEPs, who had interpreted the plan as a dastardly attempt to sabotage one of their national treasures. (French MEPs seem to have been more sanguine; possibly they were still at lunch.)
Ireland, however, has unilaterally resurrected the idea and now plans to add grim messages about liver disease and cancer to all bottles of alcohol, including wine, beer and spirits. Italy is once again furious. (France might be sleeping lunch off.) Italy’s minister of foreign affairs, Antonio Tajani, damned Ireland for “an attack on the Mediterranean diet” and declared, “Our identity cannot be perverted.” It is unclear whether or not Tajani had enjoyed a few swigs before issuing his statement.
This diplomatic stramash is, of course, tremendously good fun and it might, just like a proper alehouse dust-up, spread further, after Ettore Prandini, head of Italian farmers’ association Coldiretti, lobbed a bar stool at Scandinavia’s table and thundered, “It is completely improper to equate the excessive consumption of spirits, typical of the Nordic countries, to the moderate and conscious consumption of quality products with lower alcohol content, such as wine.”
But the Italians have a point. The medical consensus regarding wine can be summarised as: the odd glass won’t kill you. While there might be a case for health warnings on drinks that are more commonly favoured by mannerless yahoos – or, indeed, morose Norwegians – wine is a drink for grown-ups, who should be trusted to make grown-up decisions about when they’ve had enough. If anybody wants to make meaningful changes to the labelling of wine, they could impose fines for label copy that makes especially baroque claims about what the drink inside tastes like.
Andrew Mueller is a Monocle contributing editor and the host of Monocle 24’s ‘The Foreign Desk’.