Opinion / Christopher Lord
Cream of the crop
If, like me, you enjoy an occasional quesadilla then let me ask you a question. What was the colour of the last tortilla that you ate? Was it the common white variety or perhaps a more exotic shade of deep red, pink or blue? It matters because the crops behind them are at the centre of a rather shady cross-border debate between the US and Mexico.
Brightly-hued heirloom varieties of corn have been grown in Mexico for thousands of years. Not long ago, however, it looked as though they might disappear forever as a result of cheaper and more widely available yellow and white corn crops from the US. Luckily, an uptick in the popularity of Mexican food means that the market for milled masa flour is once again growing like a stalk in the sun.
I recently interviewed Mexican chef Enrique Olvera in the courtyard of Atla Venice, which is set to open soon in Los Angeles. While he is best known for Pujol in Mexico City, which brought fine-dining flair to his country’s folk recipes, the chef also supports small Mexican farms that grow a rainbow of rare corn strains. “Every time that we lose a variety of corn, we not only lose a flavour but also the techniques and recipes,” says Olvera. “That is something we feel that we should safeguard.”
Mexican president Andrés Manuel López Obrador is looking to take advantage of the renewed interest in his country’s crops and has already imposed a ban on the use of genetically modified corn for making tortillas. But US farmers (and the politicians who represent them) will not let billions of dollars of potential trade go lightly. There’s certainly a bit of populism on both sides of the border in this corn spat. But while the US has long been used to getting its way in trade negotiations, one thing’s clear: Mexico seems less than willing to play it by ear.
Christopher Lord is Monocle’s US editor based in Los Angeles. For more on this debate, tune in to ‘The Globalist’ at 07.00 London time. And don’t forget to subscribe to Monocle today.