Saturday 3 August 2024 - Monocle Minute | Monocle

Saturday. 3/8/2024

Monocle Weekend
Edition: Saturday

Finding a way

In need of some summer sightseeing? Head to Hong Kong for a spot of tea and toast at a classic diner or make your way to Greece for the finest in fashion from a family-run label in the Aegean. Plus: we take a read of the Booker prize long-list and observe a sartorial sports theme on the rise in Paris. But first, Andrew Tuck finds himself in Spain – only after double-checking the map…

Illustration: Mathieu De Muizon

The Opener / Andrew Tuck

Call of the open road

I’ve just settled with the insurance company. And I only have myself to blame. I was in Spain, on my own in a hired car, and could not get the satnav to do my bidding. I had to repeatedly pull off the road to look at the map on my phone and then attempt to somehow commit its complicated route suggestion into my flummoxed brain. This was OK until I entered a city and found myself heading down a lane that narrowed with every passing second. Suddenly, all that lay ahead was a slither of a path between two buildings and, beyond that, a set of steep stone stairs. Several people were rightfully giving me the evil eye. Worth braving it out and pushing on?

Somehow, during one of my layby map-reading moments, I had mistakenly pressed “walk” rather than “drive” as my chosen mode of mobility and so was now about to manoeuvre the car into a pedestrianised shopping zone. I reversed, smiling the smile of a foreign idiot as I edged backwards past a row of motorcycles that I feared would fall domino-style with the slightest tap of my wing mirror. And then? A scraping noise as I edged past a metal pillar; the theme tune for a day going awry. Finally, on an actual road rather than a path, I slowly found my way back to base using that novel device: road signs. I have had better motoring moments.

The triumph of satnavs and map apps can feel so complete that, even when the visual evidence suggests that something might not be quite right, we press on, trusting that enticing siren call of a digital line on the car’s display screen. As with many technical advances, satnavs can strip us of our common sense, winnow away our self-confidence and denude our inbuilt sense of direction. There’s no going back now – well, unless your fat-fingered map reading accidentally forces you to go cold turkey.

And before I get momentarily romantic about the past, do you remember life pre-satnav? Parents arguing over who misread the map. Trying to track down a friendly local who might be able to tell you where the hell you were – “Ah Greece, I think we must have missed the turn-off for Chichester”. Trying to locate a big party only to discover that the crucial page was missing from the London A-Z. But?

Well, for knowing where you are, paper maps still rock. To get the lay of the land, see how the terrain has lent names to villages and entertain last-minute detours, a fold-out map beats digital. Digital maps put your car at the centre of the story and pull the focus in so tight that what’s beyond the brough of the hill seems of little consequence. Towns pass to the left and right, all reduced to the same digital flatness. Names of villages are often absent. You can see your moving spot on the road but you are as blinkered as a shire horse when it comes to the bigger picture.

Today, as you read this, I am halfway through the drive south to Mallorca. With the other half onboard, tech-forward and always a little too keen for my liking to be the driver, there will be no danger of us ending up in a pedestrian shopping zone. I will be given the task of dog whisperer, service-station stop-off selector and DJ which, actually, is all fine by me.

But while that onboard computer will mostly rule the day, roosting in our glove compartment is a large map of France and another of Spain. Every now and then, when I want to know where we truly are, I will unfurl one of these flapping monsters with the gusto of a rally driver’s co-pilot. It makes me happy.

Image: Getty Images

The Look / Olympic tracksuits

Material effect

On the pool deck at Paris La Défense Arena this week a sartorial theme has emerged on the winner’s podium: tracksuits (writes Nic Monisse). When swimmer Thomas Ceccon walked out to receive his gold medal for victory in the men’s 100m backstroke, I was surprised to see that his official Italian National Olympic Committee tracksuit – consisting of a hooded sweatshirt with an oversized “ITALIA” printed on the front – appeared to have been bought from a souvenir shop outside the Colosseum. In a similar thread, Lukas Maertens of Germany, Hungary’s Hubert Kos and Ireland’s Daniel Wiffen, with their nation’s names emblazoned across their chests, all looked like young backpackers returning from interrailing journeys with sweaters to commemorate visits to the Brandenburg Gate, Szechenyi Baths and Dublin Castle.

Olympic committees want it to be obvious where the winning athletes come from – so you can see their champions from across the stadium – but it is a losing effect. France’s athletes, by contrast, look smarter in a plain white kit that relies on their country’s Olympic emblem sitting proud over the heart; there’s no block-printing in sight. The USA has taken a similarly winning approach. Japan’s suits show that it’s possible to play with colour, with its competitors wearing red ombre jackets and simple black trousers. Perhaps this is the secret. In the build-up to Los Angeles 2028, the advice to kit manufacturers should just be to keep it simple and rely on national colours to do the branding.

Illustration: Mathieu De Muizon

Culture Cuts / The Booker Prize

Read the fine print

The Booker Prize, one of the world’s most prestigious literary awards for fiction, announced its long-list of 13 books this week. In 2014 trustees decided to open the prize to all nationalities, provided that their work is written in English. The decision has been widely criticised by authors, who claim that the inclusion of American writers harms the chances of lesser-known novelists from the Commonwealth. This year, there are just four books on the list that do not hail from the US. Monocle Radio’s Meet the Writers host, Georgina Godwin, has made a shortlist of her own, picking three books to look out for.

1. ‘The Safekeep’, Yael van der Wouden
The Safekeep is Van der Wouden’s novel and marks the first time that a Dutch author has appeared on the long-list. Set in the rural Dutch province of Overijssel in the summer of 1961, it explores the dark legacy of the Second World War through an obsessive lesbian romance and a plot full of intrigue and suspicion.

2. ‘My Friends’, Hisham Matar
London-based Libyan-American author Hisham Matar won the Orwell Prize for political writing this year and has received the Pulitzer Prize for his book, The Return: Fathers, Sons and the Land in Between, in 2017. His latest work follows the lives of three exiles in a masterful poetic and textured story that explores deep friendships and divisions set alongside real world political events.

3. ‘James’, Percival Everett
US author Percival Everett’s novel is a retelling of Mark Twain’s Huckleberry Finn from the enslaved character Jim’s point of view. It is the only book on the list to have already achieved bestseller status and is about to be made into a major motion picture. Everett narrowly missed out on winning the Booker in 2022; this darkly humorous take on a classic tale might just win him top place.

For more book recommendations and interviews with authors, tune in to Monocle Radio’s dedicated literature show,‘Meet The Writers’, every Sunday at 12.00 London time.

How we live / Blue Angels

Sky-high ambitions

Nothing says come work for us like fighter jets screaming through the air at 1,100 km/h in perfect formation (writes Gregory Scruggs). The US Navy’s Blue Angels, an elite flight demonstration squadron, take to the skies across the country every summer. Crowds flock to the group’s shows to watch its blue-and-yellow F/A-18 Hornets make breathtaking manoeuvres over major cities, flying as close together as 45 cm from wing to wing and as low as 15 metres above the water.

The all-volunteer Navy has been struggling with recruitment in recent years, so it has been quick to capitalise on the Blue Angels’ appeal, which draws an estimated 11 million onlookers each year. Back on the ground, the Navy sets up hi-tech recruiting stations, where potential enlistees can train in a digital boot camp, explore life aboard a vessel in virtual reality and capture pictures inside an aircraft carrier’s photo booth.

Only a handful of top guns will join the Blue Angels but there is plenty of work elsewhere. Every hair-raising flyover is a chance for the US Navy to advertise its 18,000 unfilled positions and stay fighting fit without resorting to conscription. I salute that.

Image: Getty Images

Words with… / Shaun Gill

Flying the flag

Shaun Gill is the only athlete representing Belize at the Paris Olympics. He is competing in the men’s 100 metres, an event for which his best time is 10.57 seconds.

What’s it like being a country’s entire Olympic team?
It’s a big deal. There is only one person for Belizeans to support – and there are Belizeans across the globe. As I’ve heard from high-ranking officials in Belize, you’re representing your country, so don’t get into any trouble.

You’ve carried your country’s flag at the Olympic opening ceremony twice. Can you articulate how that feels?
When you’re walking up to the point where they address you as the flag-bearer and start giving you your garments, you realise what a special moment it is. Then the volunteers say, “OK, Belize, it’s your turn.” Passion, energy, love and appreciation just take over. You become the ultimate patriot. It’s a great feeling to be holding your country’s flag.

Does it seem unfair that being able to run 100 metres in 10.5 seconds – something very few people can do – isn’t better rewarded?
I take pride in being an athlete; a dedicated athlete. It takes a lot of work to get to this point. It’s your craft and if you really love what you do, then when you see the results, you can say, “OK, I’m happy.” All the work that I have put in is showing. I know that everyone looks at us and thinks, “Man, I don’t think I could ever run that fast.” But as an athlete, my constant thought is: How can I run faster?

Why do you think people should visit Belize?
We have some of the best beaches in the world. Most people who I have spoken to in the Olympic Village have visited the country to see them. I guess that’s the magic spot.

For our full interview with Olympian Shaun Gill, tune in to today’s edition of ‘The Foreign Desk’ on Monocle Radio from 12.00 London time.

The Monocle Concierge / Hong Kong

Playing to the gallery

The Monocle Concierge is our purveyor of top tips and delectable recommendations for your next trip. If you’re planning to go somewhere nice and would like some advice, clickhere. We will answer one question a week.

Dear Concierge,

I have travelled to Asia every summer since 2009. I will be in Hong Kong next week. Please let me know your suggestions. It will be my first time there. I can’t wait!

Enza Reina,
Italy

Dear Enza,

Firstly, don’t skip Hong Kong attractions such as the Star Ferry, the Peak Tram and Wednesday night horse racing at Happy Valley – they’re iconic for a reason. If you’re staying on Hong Kong Island in the Starstreet Precinct, stylish boutiques such as Salvo and Kapok (not to mention The Monocle Shop), are perfect for an afternoon wander. Do some window shopping, grab a milk tea and toast at classic cha chaan teng diner Tak Yu and see what’s on at Kiang Malingue, a contemporary-art gallery a couple of streets away. For evening drinks, head to The Diplomat, Green Door or Savoury Project for something a bit more experimental. M+ museum in West Kowloon is a must-visit for art, architecture and visual culture, while the nearby Palace Museum houses an impressive collection of imperial Chinese artefacts. Many neighbourhoods, from Causeway Bay to Mongkok, are best explored on foot: zip between them on the MTR and then let yourself wander the dense and vibrant streets.

Pack your swimsuit and sneakers – Hong Kong’s beaches and hiking trails are some of the most underrated in the world. Car-free Lamma Island, just 20 minutes from central Hong Kong by ferry, is a tranquil pit stop for fresh seafood, scenic walks and dips in the ocean; drop by Terracotta for alfresco cocktails. If you have more time to explore, Sai Kung peninsula makes for a wonderful day trip. Brunch at one of the seafront dim sum restaurants and then hop on a speedboat or a bus to explore white-sand coves and jungly treks with stunning panoramic views. Enjoy!

Image: Tony Hay

Wardrobe update / Ysso

Other side of the coin

To commemorate the One & Only Hotel opening on the Aegean island of Kéa, Stalo and Alexia Karides, the mother-daughter duo behind jewellery label Ysso, created an exclusive line that highlights the history and nautical traditions of the island. Examples include necklace charms shaped like acorns or Tetras coins – the island’s ancient currency rumoured to have been made for the Greek goddess Athena.

The necklaces themselves are gold-plated and hand-carved in the same Athens jewellery workshop as the label’s full range. It’s a fitting collaboration for the fast-growing label, which creates sophisticated modern-day iterations of the ancient objects and jewels that Stalo used to find in her former life as an archaeologist. “There’s no better way to remember a trip and the time you spent at a beautiful location than with a piece of jewellery you can take back home,” adds Alexia.
theysso.com

For more hidden gems and sunny stays, pick up a copy of Monocle’s latest issue or subscribe today. Have a great Saturday.

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