Food and drink

This informal, busy little restaurant and wine bar near the river has outdoor seating that’s perfect for those balmy nights. Don’t be distracted by the risqué black-and-white pictures from the 1930s; focus on the hundreds of Italian vintages (many bottles line the wood-panelled walls) and traditional Roman fare, especially the house cacio e pepe prepared with tonnarelli pasta – there’s also a tasty version with truffles. Pair it with a well-balanced red wine from Lazio.

Dainty they are not – and their size prevents any attempt at civilised munching – but Regoli’s fresh pastries earned the patisserie its storied reputation for unashamed overindulgence. Romans religiously come to this tiny shop to stock up from trays piled with plump delights, and you could feast for breakfast in the café next door all week. The gargantuan whipped-cream-lathered maritozzi buns are the headline act but the fluffy chantilly-cream and wild-strawberry tarts are no less decadent.

Although the ground floor of this hotel displays many contemporary artworks, the real masterpiece is the stunning rooftop bar and restaurant. Open from May to October, it gives a 360-degree view over the roofs of Rome, including to St Peter’s Dome and Villa Medici. Climb to the small upper terrace for an even wider panorama and an extra dose of privacy, and enjoy a good selection of wine, premium spirits and cocktails. An area is reserved for the restaurant, which serves modern Roman fare and seafood, both as full dishes or small plates.

Deciding where to eat in Rome can be difficult. If you want a white-tablecloth Roman ristorante experience, head to Nino just off the Piazza di Spagna. The dark mahogany and etched-glass panels transport you to when the restaurant opened in the 1930s. Just don’t wear shorts, T-shirts or flip flops. Sophia Loren, Michelangelo Antonioni, Anna Magnani and Audrey Hepburn were past diners, to name a few. Today the people-watching at Nino’s is excellent; coiffured signore and signori abound. 
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Alessandro and Pierluigi Roscioli turned their grocery store into a deli/restaurant back in 2002, and now serve hundreds of cured meats and cheeses alongside some of Rome’s best pasta. Start with Pugliese burrata and semi-dried Pachino tomatoes, followed by meatballs cacciatore or carpaccio of swordfish. The excellent wine list, meanwhile, reads like a tour of Italy. Don’t forget to fare la scarpetta (mop up the pasta sauce) with the bread that’s made round the corner at the family’s bakery.