These days, whether you’re trying to buy a designer handbag or a freshly baked croissant, you’ll probably end up waiting in line. Sometimes you’ll need to sign up via a QR code first; as soon as your time slot or appointment is over, you’ll be rushed off to make way for the next customer. Queueing culture is particularly evident in New York, where residents and visitors alike line up for everything from ready-to-wear ensembles on Madison Avenue to cookies from Soho’s Levain Bakery.

But not everyone is happy to wait and some are lamenting the loss of shops such as Barneys, Opening Ceremony or Odin. Luckily, a new generation of retailers is emerging to fill the gap, obviating the need for queues by doubling down on personal service and privacy: think by-appointment showrooms, one-on-one consultations and sharp product picks.

Among the leading figures of this new wave of retail experiences is former fashion buyer Dawn Nguyen. Last year she opened L’Ensemble, a multi-brand boutique in Brooklyn’s Dumbo neighbourhood. Crafted with interior designer Patrick Bozeman, the dimly lit space is furnished with mid-century pieces, such as chairs by Afra and Tobia Scarpa, and dotted with wood sculptures by Chandler McLellan. It already has a regular clientele of fashionable New Yorkers and a shopfront space is in the works for 2025.

“It was very difficult to find a place to shop,” says Nguyen, explaining what inspired her to start the business. “A lot of the multi-brand stores these days are either too hyped, too young or too mature.” So she set out to replicate the kinds of experiences that she would have when visiting brands’ showrooms for work. “As a buyer, you get to go behind the scenes and have conversations with extremely knowledgeable brand representatives,” she tells monocle. “That allows you to learn the stories behind every collection. There’s so much intention behind the details. I thought that this type of experience should become part of everyday retail.”

L’Ensemble has no obvious signage. It’s set on a quiet cobbled street between residential neighbourhoods – a far cry from the bustling retail spaces across the East River. “It was tricky at first,” says Nguyen. “You have to work on strong marketing from the back end when you’re not getting any foot traffic.”

The shop’s intimacy reflects a broader appetite for one-on-one service and discretion that is increasingly shared by discerning larger-scale retailers and global luxury brands. Labels at the pinnacle of the luxury sector are turning to client dinners and money-can’t-buy experiences that are held behind closed doors. Many businesses are now investing in personal-shopping teams instead of influencer marketing, while some of the most exclusive members’ clubs ask visitors to stick a tape on their iPhone cameras before entering.

In a way, L’Ensemble has itself become a kind of private member’s club, with regulars booking appointments to shop for all of their special occasions. Consultations can be arranged in advance; after a quick chat, the team puts together a selection that’s tailored to every customer’s needs. Are privacy and discretion the new luxury? “Customers enjoy how everything is personalised,” says Nguyen. “And they’re not being rushed. It means that they can really get behind their purchases.”

Rather than following runway trends, L’Ensemble’s clothing selection responds to the specific needs of customers. Inside the showroom, you’ll find neat rails lined with brands that usually fly under the radar in New York: coats from Copenhagen’s Sunflower, for example, as well as sweaters from Amsterdam’s Extreme Cashmere and leather derbies from French brand Paraboot. There’s a strong vision here: someone has clearly thought very hard about every item. “I usually pick brands that make very wearable pieces,” says Nguyen, who initially studied menswear design at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology and finds herself drawn to unisex items. “Showcasing brands that don’t have much distribution is important to me.”

For Nguyen, displaying her finds in the right physical environment and being on the shop floor to meet customers are also crucial. “Things don’t really translate well online, especially with brands that are quite luxurious,” she says. “You’ve got to feel [the items] and see how they look in real life.” Nguyen is usually on hand when customers visit; she also personally responds to their emails. “Being on the ground is what I’m used to. I like talking to clients. A lot of people come in with a specific need. You have to speak to them and allow them to open up. You really need that connection with them.”

Exclusivity isn’t the priority here. Whether customers are seeking styling advice or simply want to have items waiting for them in a dressing room, Nguyen ensures that the mood stays relaxed. She also makes a point of offering pieces at a range of prices – from $90 (€87) T-shirts up to $5,800 (€5,660) trench coats. “Nobody is buying $5,800 trench coats every day,” she says. “It’s important to represent all levels. The store is for everybody.” It’s also why the shop is now introducing drop-in consultations that don’t need to be booked in advance. “We’ll make sure that we always have enough staff to take care of clients individually.”

L’Ensemble is preparing to move to a bigger, street-level Dumbo location later this year that will continue to offer one-on-one services. “People look for experiences and want to be in a place that’s thoughtful,” says Nguyen. “I don’t see myself as being in the business of fashion or retail. I’m in the business of hospitality.” — L
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