Going the distance

Markos Chaidemenos grew up near the sunny cliffs of Santorini, where he helped to run his parents’ hotel, Canaves Oia. “I used to work the afternoon shift, go out at night, come back to take a shower and then go straight to the morning shift,” he tells monocle. He took over the family business in 2010 and turned it into the Canaves Collection, a luxury-resort brand comprising five properties across Santorini. Despite having plans to expand across the Cyclades, the second-generation hotelier is keen to ensure that the enterprise serves locals and enhances the character of the islands. 

Chaidemenos has seen the island change rapidly over the past 20 years. But unlike many critics, who say that Santorini has become overcrowded and touristy, his love for his home island has never diminished. “Santorini is beautiful, which is what attracts people and makes parts of it busy,” says Chaidemenos. “But it’s unfair to say that Santorini is a tourist trap. It’s much more than that.”

The Canaves Collection also consists of 250 staff residences. “This has not only improved the quality of life of our employees but also helped to take care of the local community as it avoids taking housing from permanent residents,” says Chaidemenos. But he’s not the only one taking action to protect Santorini’s resources: the Greek government is currently implementing policies to curb overtourism and preserve traditional architecture on the island. The daily influx of cruise-ship tourists has recently been capped at 8,000 visitors, while permits have also been put in place to favour the renovation of existing structures over new buildings. For Chaidemenos, these are signs that the mentality on Santorini has changed. “As a local, these new decrees and ways of doing things are music to my ears,” he says. Working closely with the municipality, he hopes to encourage a slower form of tourism that’s more appreciative of the location’s many layers. “Santorini is more than just blue-domed churches and cliffs,” he says. “It can be as much of an off-the-beaten-path destination as any other Greek island.”
canaves.com

As well as a thriving capital, Nairobi is a layover city for those on the way to Lamu Island or the plains of Masai Mara. Travellers zipping in and out often find themselves with lengthy layovers: domestic and international flights aren’t always well timed and the two airports – Jomo Kenyatta and Wilson – are a 30-minute drive from each other, making for tense stopovers.

To buy time, some travellers book into generic airport hotels. But those in the know opt for The Retreat, a collection of day rooms at Giraffe Manor. The hotel is located in the leafy suburb of Langata and known, as the name suggests, for its wildlife. Here, layovers can be maximised and enjoyed rather than endured.

The Retreat was created specifically for those who have a couple of hours to kill between flights. Upstairs, a collection of suites overlooks the gardens. Travellers can take a nap or spend time in the communal areas; swimming in the pool, lounging around the fireplace or eating at the hotel restaurant, Daisy’s. The spa is probably the biggest pre- and post-flight draw, with a sauna, steam room and gym, as well as treatments for tight neck muscles and dry skin.

After checking in and freshening up, there are ample ways to maximise a layover and whittle away the hours in Kenya’s capital, a buzzing metropolis worth exploring in its own right. The city’s art scene is booming thanks to the Nairobi Contemporary Art Institute highlighting the work of East African artists. Gallery hopping and long meals at restaurants such as the highly recommended Cultiva are best enjoyed once you’ve scrubbed up post long-haul flight.

For those passing through Nairobi, finding the right base camp from which to recharge can set the tone of a trip. Perhaps in-between hotels would work elsewhere too.
thesafaricollection.com

What is it about people with travel pillows (asks Ed Stocker)? They walk around airports brandishing them like war trophies or wrapping them around their necks like bloated appendages. The pillows get scuffed, thrown into security bins and, often, end up on the floor before being gathered up and employed as a useless way of attempting to rest on a flight. All this despite having acquired who-knows-what in the way of bacteria on their messy transit.

Don’t get me wrong. For those of us travelling in the less comfortable parts of a plane, the idea of not falling asleep with my mouth open and waking up with a cricked neck from the unnatural way in which I’ve passed out is appealing. But somehow, no one seems to have invented a travel pillow that is comfortable or looks any good (I look forward to the flurry of emails telling me that I’m wrong; you can contact me at ejs@monocle.com). You just look silly with a miniature buoyancy aid around your neck.

Maybe the secret is to pack a small pillow in your carry-on or to scrunch up a jumper. Failing that, you could give up completely and realise that you’re not going to get any sleep when you’re in cattle class anyway. I find myself judging the people who wear travel pillows, the likes of whom I don’t want to spend any time with. Is it snobby? Probably.

While we’re on the topic, wielders of travel pillows are not the only tribe that I eschew at the airport. We’ll have to save my thoughts on those who shrink-wrap their suitcase in kilometres of plastic for another day. Have a restful flight, everyone. — L

Fine print
Top travel titles

There’s nothing quite like flicking through a magazine for some armchair travelling or, better yet, to inspire an upcoming jaunt. Here are five international travel titles that our editors admire.

1. ‘Holiday’: After a 37-tear hiatus, the biannual title has returned under Parisian creative director Franck Durand. Its latest issue is a photo-heavy ode to New York.
holiday-magazine.com

2. ‘Transit’: This Japanese publication offers an in-depth look at a country, region or theme. The latest issue takes the reader across France, from the nation’s cheeses and historical figures to its modern cultural scenes.
transit.jp

3. ‘Fare’: This magazine by Glasgow-based Ben Mervis focuses on the cuisine and culture of a single city in every issue. The title recently made its way to Taipei, Seoul and Naples.
faremag.com

4. ‘Voyageurs du Monde’: This journal is heavy on photography and special reports that inspire wanderlust for lesser-known destinations.
voyageursdumonde.fr

5. ‘Direction of  Travel’: Created by London-based German-Danish product designer Christian Nolle, this large-scale magazine is all about airline maps. It’s also an exploration of the culture and history of flying.
directionoftravel.com

For more print recommendations and news, tune in to Monocle Radio’s ‘The Stack’.

On any roadtrip, your set of wheels needs to respond to the terrain that you’re tackling, whether that’s city streets or unpaved mountain tracks. It also needs to set the mood in terms of its look and feel. Here are five monocle-approved motors to inspire your travels. (1) Crown Sedan by Toyota. This Japanese vehicle was built with the requirements of a chauffeured car in mind. Its hi-tech suspension system makes for a smooth ride, while the large cabin is a perfect size for comfortable city breaks. (2) Leon Estate by Cupra. TheMartorell-based manufacturer has fitted this set of wheels with a generous trunk and Light Assist technology to ensure maximum visibility as you climb winding roads. With a great dynamic performance and race-inspired seating, the Leon Estate will take you to and from the mountains – and then some. (3) 110 R by Skoda. The Czech-made 110 R, a delightfully quirky sports car from the former Eastern bloc. Thanks to its elegant fastback roofline and two-door offering, it makes for a romantic weekend-getaway car. (4) Truck by Telo. The pick-up truck has had a revamp at the hands of US-based Swiss designer Yves Béhar. Christened the Telo, it’s electric and designed with Mini Cooper-sized proportions in mind. With a US launch imminent and plans for European release in the works, off-road lovers are in for a treat. (5) Defender 90 by Land Rover. This imposing all-wheel drive is a great urban runaround but it’s ideal for adventures off the beaten path too. The UK car-maker has ensured that it comes with built-in comforts, including an impressive surround-sound system.

The American motel rose to prominence in the mid-20th century in response to the rising number of travellers in search of a place to bed down on long, cross-country roadtrips. But after their heyday in the 1950s and 1960s, many of these humble lodgings fell on hard times. Now, Texas is beginning to revitalise these historic hotels for a new generation.

Take Hotel Lucine, a former motel-turned-boutique residence in the coastal resort city of Galveston. It comprises an intimate central courtyard with a pastel-blue tiled pool, a fine-dining restaurant and the largest rooftop bar on the town’s beachfront. “I have admired the building since my wife and I moved back to Galveston several years ago,” says Dave Jacoby, who owns the hotel with his wife, Keath, and their business partner, Robert Marcus. “We were lucky to have the original architectural drawings from when it was built in 1963. We knew that to renovate it and run it well, we would need to stay true to the original aesthetic and restore the role of the hotel as a social hub in the Galveston community.”

The adaptation of a 1950s motel into a modern 21st-century stay was inevitably more complicated than simply dressing the property in new finery. Over time, hotels have had to innovate and diversify their offerings. Travellers’ expectations have also heightened and consumer priorities have shifted, so Hotel Lucine had to be updated to adapt to these changes. “The programming and design of any property plays a critical role in keeping the space filled with lively people,” says David Clark, founder and creative director at Austin-based Kartwheel Studio, who was tasked with the motel’s makeover. “We decided to extend the building towards the seawall property line, which enhanced the look and ensured that every space – whether for dining, lounging or socialising – was optimised for both the guests’ experience and operational efficiency.”

But Hotel Lucine is not alone in this Lone Star State motel revival. In 2017, Liz Lambert’s Austin Motel set the tone with its pop-vintage vision of a bright 21st-century roadside inn, while in San Antonio, Jayson Seidman’s Ranch Motel and Leisure Club turned a motor-court into a verdant haven. And other big projects are likely to follow suit. “I think a large part of this trend is tied to the time when these motels were originally built,” says Hotel Lucine’s Robert Marcus. “Many of them are in prime locations and offer an appealing opportunity for restoration.”

Archana Dharni was recently appointed events director for Aircraft Interiors Expo (aix), an aviation fair that takes place in Hamburg every spring. The most recent edition of the event attracted some 12,000 professionals, 460 exhibitors and 166 airlines. Here, the industry strategy veteran tells us how aircraft interiors and expectations are evolving.

How are people’s travel habits changing?
People are taking longer flights and airlines are doing a lot to accommodate for this. How do carriers put passenger safety first? And, while safety is key, how do they ensure that travellers are comfortable? Passenger expectations have evolved significantly over the years. It’s not just about getting from A to B. Our day-to-day comforts now need to be replicated in the cabin. Airlines are analysing different data points to figure out how they can continue to personalise their offering.

Personalisation is key, then?
We have been discussing the topic of personalisation for years. What do passengers want? Once you have the answer, you need to create a cabin that facilitates their needs. This can be achieved through ambient lighting, meals, drinks, the choice of amenities and in-flight entertainment. We’re not quite at a level of total individual personalisation yet  but we know that the long-term goal is to get to that point. There are already a lot of ways in which we can increase the number of options for passengers.

Are passengers becoming more demanding?
For short-haul flyers, it’s still about getting from A to B. But with long-haul passengers, especially with what they’re paying for flights now, there’s a level of expectation about what they are getting in that space.

You have talked a lot about comfort. Is it becoming more important to airlines?
Air New Zealand has introduced beds to its economy class. Is this likely to happen elsewhere straight away? No, probably not. But different options to boost passenger comfort are being explored. Airlines are beginning to provide travellers with alternative choices that cater more closely to their needs and increase their level of comfort.

AIX runs 8-10 April 2025.
aircraftinteriorsexpo.com

For all those caught up in the excitement of booking a long-haul flight and jetting off to an exciting new destination, there is one main downside: jet lag. It’s a challenge that neuropsychiatrist Irshaad Ebrahim advises on. After founding the London Sleep Centre in 2002, he set up several other such institutions across the world, including The Constantia Sleep Centre in South Africa. Here, he gets us up to speed on beating jet lag.

Pre-flight
“Before you even get on the plane, you need to have established good sleep-hygiene routine,” says Ebrahim. “This will immediately help to offset any effects of jet lag.” Exercising regularly and drinking plenty of water are among his top recommendations. Other tips shared by medical professionals include resisting the temptation to nap throughout the day and investigating your clock gene (a protein-coding gene that plays a central role in regulating circadian rhythms) through lab tests if you suffer from daytime drowsiness or regularly wake up in the night. The most indulgent recommendation of all? Ensure that your bedroom is a sanctuary. Pile up a stack of escapist titles, play some relaxing tunes and or put on that cucumber facemask. It’s all about maintaining a bedtime routine before your flight, says Ebrahim.

On board
“Once you’re on the aircraft, there is one trump card that you must play,” says Ebrahim. “Clock into your destination the moment you get on the plane. Check the season and time difference beforehand. When you’re on the aircraft, you should switch to the timings of the country that you’re travelling to. Fall asleep when people there are going to bed and wake up when they are waking. This allows you to prepare psychologically and behaviourally for landing in a new place.” It also prevents you from falling asleep unexpectedly upon arrival. So pull down your window, insert your earplugs and put on your eye mask. This should all lead to a restful sleep.

On arrival
“Taking a melatonin supplement is a useful aid in combatting jet lag,” says Ebrahim. The hormone is produced in the brain in response to darkness and helps with the timing of your circadian rhythms. “The key to this is taking it about an hour before sleep once you land. Continue taking it for three days after arriving and repeat for another three days when you return from your trip.” The doctor is also keen to stress that exposure to the right type of light is essential. “There is a lot to be said for light therapy,” he says, explaining that an exposure to special bright-white light bulbs that emit 10,000 lux (an amount similar to the light in the sky just after dawn) can be beneficial to sleep. “Buy a portable light-therapy lamp and switch it on 30 minutes after waking up. It helps to suppress melatonin and gives your brain the impression that a new day is starting.”