Opinion / Andrew Tuck
Culture vulture quandary
Is it offensive if a Japanese tourist dons a kilt while in Scotland, a white woman wears a sari to an Indian friend’s wedding, a white man has dreadlocks or anyone dresses up as a cowboy who doesn’t own a horse, 1,000 head of cattle and live in Texas? Charges of cultural appropriation fly thick and fast these days, leaving numerous people and organisations determined to stay in their own cultural comfort zones for fear of being called out.
The finger-pointers are just as offended when music crosses cultures or when a chef dares to cook the food of another nation. Gordon Ramsay got into a spat recently with a restaurant critic, Angela Hui, who took offence at the lack of Asian people who will be involved in his new restaurant Lucky Cat. Both seem more than able to look after themselves.
But does, say, an Italian restaurant need someone from Naples or Rome in the kitchen? Probably not. Some of the best – and most authentic – Italian restaurants in Tokyo are run solely by passionate locals (they even make their own mozzarella). Similarly, there are Aussie chefs who cook great Thai food and plenty of French cooks who make perfect sushi.
One person’s cultural appropriation is another’s desire to experience and celebrate a culture that’s not theirs. And in the world of food, there are numerous examples more outlandish than Mr Ramsay’s. In the coming days he will face the real test: diners will either come back for more or put the cat out on the street. That’s authentic.