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This weekend we drop anchor in a new coastal hotel in Corfu, rustle up a seafood salad and scope out a secluded bay near Portofino. Elsewhere our in-house music man recommends a playlist for apéro hour, we sound out a beach-suitable speaker and meet a Milanese fashion maven to discuss her Sunday itinerary. First up is Tyler Brûlé.
The faster lane / TYLER BRÛLÉ
It’s the first Sunday of the second half of 2022, so how about a little audit of what you’ve been up to, what you’ve been wasting too much time on and what can be jettisoned from your daily or weekly routine? Should we start with a deep digital cleanse given that you’re probably reading this column on a small-ish device rather than a toothy sheet of matt paper? Perhaps deleting a few apps will get you into the rhythm and we can build from there. Ready?
You can start by getting rid of most of your weather apps as they tend not to be very accurate and are costing the hospitality industry billions in lost bookings as too many people rely on a smiling sun or are scared of a bit of drizzle when planning their holidays. At a recent lunch with a Zürich hotelier, I was briefed on a digital meteorological crisis that sounds far more damaging than potential strikes by airlines or small mountain ranges of lost luggage at Heathrow. “We’re witnessing an absurd dependence on weather forecasts,” said the exasperated GM. “People wait till the last minute to see whether the sun will come out or take advantage of relaxed cancellation policies if they see that there might be some rain during a holiday weekend. As we all know, most of the time the three-day forecast is still wrong and the dark cloud and lightning bolt icons never develop in the heavens on the day.”
Stick to your summer plan and don’t fret about a run of grey clouds or drops of precipitation
In the run-up to Monocle’s summer party in London last Wednesday there was a constant weather watch to see if the party would need to move indoors; throughout the day various colleagues had updates on possible downpours or moments of sunshine. In the end the weather held but it wasn’t exactly balmy – a northerly wind kept goosebumps on bare arms. On Friday there was similar pre-party angst as we prepared for another summer bash in Merano. A couple of weather apps (a mix of global, Italian and hyperlocal) promised a rainy afternoon and thunderstorms. It did rain but only about 12 drops in as many seconds. This was exactly the type of forecast that’s unhelpful to a travel industry that’s only just getting back into its groove.
In Switzerland many swear by an app related to farmer-focused retailer Landi; you will hear all kinds of people coo about its spot-on accuracy. But after a few tries I found that its imminent rain warnings were rarely on the mark and a few thwarted impromptu barbecues could have easily gone ahead. Add the fact that all the weather checking starts to make you borderline neurotic about something you can’t control and it’s clear that you don’t need multiple sources to inform how you should travel or what you should wear to work. While I’m all for multiple sources, let’s not pretend that we all have a degree in climate modelling and are triangulating the forthcoming weekend in St Tropez by comparing forecasts from yr.no, Accuweather, the BBC and various other trusted sources.
If it gives you any comfort, you can keep one weather app: the one that makes you the happiest instead of one that claims to be the most accurate. More importantly, stick to your summer plan and don’t fret about a run of grey clouds or drops of precipitation. Instead, master an ancient sundance – it will at least make you feel as though you have some influence over the sky above.
New opening / The Olivar Suites, Corfu
A recent addition to the shores of the Greek island Corfu, The Olivar Suites sits shrouded in a century-old olive grove by Messonghi beach (writes Debbie Pappyn). As the name hints, this isn’t a hotel that has any humble rooms; instead there are 120 suites scattered across traditional bungalows, each with clean, contemporary interiors. Some face the clear Ionian sea and a 200-metre stretch of salt-white sand; others have a private pool. The bleached-wood sunloungers on the beach come with a drinks service, parasols and fresh towels. Corfiot, Greek and Mediterranean delicacies are served all day in the beachfront Flya taverna and the peckish can find lighter snacks at Olibar within the ancient olive-oil mill.
olivarsuites.gr
Sunday Roast / Molly Molloy
After 10 years at luxury Italian fashion brand Marni, Molly Molloy co-founded maximalist homeware and clothing label Colville in 2018. Its designs are eclectic and characterful but value individuality and longevity over novelty. Here, Milan-based Molloy shares her weekend plans in Venice, favourite bakery and what her partner adores for breakfast.
Where will we find you this weekend?
I’ll be on my friend’s boat on the lagoon in Venice, hopping on and off for lunch and swimming.
Ideal start to a Sunday? Gentle or a jolt?
Always gentle. I like to ease into the day.
What’s for breakfast?
Most Sundays it’s scrambled eggs and HP sauce on toast. My Italian boyfriend loves it.
Lunch in or out?
Lunch at the Pasticceria Sissi in Milan. It’s just around the corner from my apartment and everything there is divine. To finish off, I often get a croissant filled with custard cream.
Any exercise?
I always try to fit in a swim – and a steam.
A Sunday soundtrack?
“Something on Your Mind” by Karen Dalton.
Sunday must?
There is a great flea market every last Sunday of the month in the Navigli neighbourhood of Milan. It’s rare that I go home empty-handed.
News or not?
Yes, it’s the one day I have to read a whole article, not just the first paragraph.
A glass of something?
If there is a good primitivo open then I’ll definitely have a glass.
What’s on the menu?
At the moment it’s my boyfriend’s summer pasta with finely chopped raw onions, capers, olives, datterini tomatoes and mozzarella. It’s delicious and the perfect way to end a Sunday.
Sunday evening routine?
I really try to relax on a Sunday evening, so I’ll read or watch a film and take the dog for a walk.
Are you preparing Monday’s outfit?
I never prepare the night before. If I do, I’ll have changed my mind by the time morning comes. I’ll go with the flow onMonday morning.
Recipe / Aya Nishimura
Our London-based recipe writer rustles up a seafood salad with tomato, cucumber, coriander and jalapeños for an added kick. Meanwhile, the sesame oil and rice vinegar dressing adds an Asian twist to this moreish Mediterranean staple. Enjoy.
Serves 2 as a starter
Ingredients
600g octopus, cleaned and prepared
1 bay leaf
1 tbsp light olive oil
400g cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered
2 small cucumbers, cut into 7mm cubes
40g coriander leaves, finely sliced including the stems
1 large fresh jalapeño, finely diced
2 tbsps rice vinegar
½ tsp sea salt
3 tsps toasted sesame oil
Juice of 1 lime
Method
1
Place the cleaned, prepared octopus into a saucepan of salted boiling water. Immediately turn down the heat to low and leave to simmer for about 50 minutes, until tender. Then remove the octopus from the water and leave to cool and dry.
2
While the octopus is cooling, prepare the rest of the ingredients.
3
Heat a griddle pan until it’s smoking. Toss the octopus in the oil and coat evenly. Cook it in the pan for about three minutes on each side, until it chars. Slice into bite-sized pieces: 1.5cm for chunky parts and 3cm for thinner parts.
4
Mix the octopus with the rest of the ingredients and serve with crusty bread.
ayanishimura.com
How to pack / Marie-Louise Sciò
Packing needn’t be painful. To help you fit in everything you need for your next trip, Marie-Louise Sciò, creative director and CEO of Pellicano Hotels, shares a few tips.
Over the many summers that she has spent at the Italian hotel group’s three locations – the Mezzatorre in Ischia, La Posta Vecchia in Ladispoli and Hotel Il Pellicano in Tuscany – she has met some of the world’s most elegant travellers.
“Fashion designer Margherita Missoni is the best packer in the world so I’ve been learning from her,” says Sciò. “She always fits everything in a carry-on and picks items that she can mix and match.” Sciò lists essentials such as shirts, denim shorts, slip dresses by Alex Eagle and linen suits that can be dressed up or down with the right accessories. “For men, I see stylist Robert Rabensteiner [pictured, with Sciò] as the best example,” she says. “He always packs velvet slippers, a hat and a safari jacket that can double as a shirt, and always looks stylish.” Admittedly, this won’t be a panacea for all wardrobes.
As much as she believes in packing less, Sciò also recommends grabbing an extra tote to carry a scarf, headphones, pair of trainers for potential adventures and some discoveries at your destination. That’s why she created Issimo, a series of retail corners at every Pellicano hotel that highlight the best of Italian fashion and design, such as Lido Venti swimwear. “It’s important to support small brands from the places you visit,” she says.
Weekend plans? / San Fruttuoso, Italy
The pilgrimage to San Fruttuoso, which is only accessible by sea or on foot from Camogli or Portofino, is worth the hike of about 4km for the views of the Ligurian sea along the way (writes Grace Charlton). Set in an inlet, its eye-catching abbey was rebuilt in the 10th century as a Benedictine monastery and a tower was added almost 600 years later; today it’s more a site for in-the-know sun worshippers than monks. Here’s what to do while you’re in the area.
Stay
Splendido Mare
San Fruttuoso offers little in terms of places to stay, so head for nearby Portofino instead and the Splendido Mare boutique hotel. For ultimate old-school glamour and views of the harbour, book the Ava Gardner suite.
belmond.com
Eat
Da Laura
Located in a tranquil garden surrounded by lemon trees, Da Laura is a league above the other restaurants nearby. Order the calamari to start, followed by the impossibly silky lasagnette al pesto (a Ligurian speciality) and settle in with a bottle of coastal white wine from the surrounding vineyards. Booking ahead is essential.
Via San Fruttuoso 19
Swim
San Fruttuoso beach
If you’re a strong swimmer you can paddle beyond the bay at this diminutive beach and then dive down to glimpse the 2.5 metre-tall copper statue of Christ of the Abyss that stands on the seabed. It was installed in 1954 to mark the passing of the scuba diving pioneer Dario Gonzatti and designed by sculptor Guido Galletti.
Hike
Portofino or Camogli
From San Fruttuoso you have a choice: hike south to Portofino or north to Camogli (via San Rocco) through olive groves and fragrant pines. Both of the trails are about 4km and steep in parts, so give yourself two hours and take supplies and sensible footwear.
Drink
San Giorgio
The ideal end to a day trip in San Fruttuoso is a sundowner with a view of the abbey and the bay at the low-key San Giorgio. Grab a negroni and a table on the cosy terrace, from where you can watch the tides change and the crowds drift past.
Località San Fruttuoso
Summer soundtrack 02 / Apéro time
In the second part of his summer playlist, Monocle 24’s senior culture correspondent, Fernando Augusto Pacheco, has selected the perfect sounds for apéro time. Slow down with Nigerian-Italian funk, Austrian chillout and a spot of vintage disco.
To listen to the playlist – and several others by Fernando – search for Monocle 24’s account on Spotify. And be sure to tune in to our round-the-clock programming at monocle.com/radio for more.
Tech corner / Loewe We Hear 1
“We” is the name of a new affordable sub-brand for Loewe audio-visual products (writes David Phelan). In the first launch is an eye-catching portable Bluetooth speaker. The cylindrical device has speakers at both ends, though tiny feet tell you which way is up. The audio is excellent, with enough volume for the great outdoors but strong accuracy and a good balance of midtones and bass. Choose from storm grey, cool grey, aqua blue and coral red. There’s also a larger model in the same colours, called We Hear 2, with an extra three hours’ battery life. Speaking of which, don’t forget to recharge this weekend and have a super Sunday.
we-by-loewe.com
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