Even when you follow a story unfolding in another nation and think that you understand its bigger twists and turns, the part that you miss from afar is what it feels like to live in that story, to find yourself caught up in a fraught narrative. This week Tyler, myself and a team of Monocle folk were in Warsaw for Monocle Radio broadcasts, an event for subscribers and friends. It was a chance to gauge the mood of the moment in a country that has such strengths in everything from design and culture to fashion and manufacturing – but also a war on its border.
It was also an interesting time to visit the country because Poland has a new prime minister, Donald Tusk, who came into office last December after a messy and polarising election (he was also prime minister from 2007 to 2014). He has a mandate to bring the country back into the mainstream of European politics after eight years of rule by the populist Law and Justice Party (PiS). It was a period in which LGBT rights were attacked, some of the strictest laws on abortion were introduced, institutions and the judiciary were stuffed with party loyalists and numerous attempts were made to restrict press freedom. But there are still problems, including the incumbent president, Andrzej Duda, who is out to thwart Tusk’s reforms.
And though we have all heard and read much about this, I wasn’t aware of how much trauma the past eight years had caused for progressive Poles. While some people told us that it had helped galvanise civil society, united women opposed to the abortion law changes and detailed to us their own stories of doing battle (especially colleagues in the media), others seemed a little knocked off kilter by a period in which they had seen their values pilloried. And then there’s the war in Ukraine and Russia. A poll published this week found that 47.4 per cent of Poles believe that Russia will ultimately attack their country. It is hard to remain optimistic when you are living history like this. Perhaps it’s also why a few people seemed surprised by our enthusiasm for brand Poland. “Why Poland?” we were asked again and again.
In the new March issue of Monocle, there’s a story about how the country became a furniture-manufacturing powerhouse, producing for Ikea and Fritz Hansen but also supporting a network of homegrown brands. I was pleased to see many of the people who we featured at our party in the fun Bar Rascal, alongside ambassadors, a supermodel, academics, TV anchors, developers and architects. This manufacturing prowess extends to just about every sector you can think of, from clothing to cars. One morning, Tyler led a high-speed retail survey. As we met shop owners and makers, it was incredible to see how many products carried the nicely embossed words, “Made in Poland”. That’s one reason we are advocates.
And then there’s Warsaw. February is not the ideal month to see anywhere in northern Europe and I did have to shelter in several cosy cafés during the more insistent downpours. But the city is evolving. On Thursday morning, Marlena Happach, chief architect for the City of Warsaw, kindly came to our pop-up radio studio in the lobby of the Puro hotel. On The Globalist she talked about the city changing tack, thinking less about what visitors needed and, instead, creating a better quality of life for locals. There are now more spots where pedestrians prevail, including a new public area along the Vistula river and a tram and subway network that is undergoing an extension.
Over three days of good meals with locals (Polish food is another cheese-topped soft-power triumph), meandering city walks (thank you Mateusz for being our guide), visits to HQs and newspaper offices, we got to see Poland’s huge potential. It meant that by the time we hit the party on the final night, I was so well-armed with inspirational stories if anyone asked me, “Why Poland?”