D

Design / Retail

Milano Moda Uomo

After a sizzling edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence the fashion world descended on Milan for the spring/summer 2017 edition of Milan’s menswear week. With the thermometer hovering around 30C, Monocle scoured showrooms and runways in search of the best linen suits, colourful shirts and summery shoes. We bring you our pick of the bunch.

Tod’s, footwear

Indicative of Italian staple Tod’s steer towards sportswear, these slip-ons and lace-ups make for an excellent casual option. The sturdy sides of the brushed suede numbers combine rubber with a strip of woven rope borrowed from an espadrille-like look.

Caruso, ties

The same hand-stitched heart motif decorating these ties by Caruso appears on some of the brand’s jacket pockets: on these colourful Italian-made cotton-and-silk pieces it adds an extra playful touch to already lively, summer-ready accessories.

Massimo Piombo, jackets

Massimo Piombo launched his eponymous label in 1989 and this season his compact, three-storey flagship in Milan's Brera district was filled with the playful, relaxed tailoring he has become known for. We were particularly taken with these twin blue-and-red pinstripe jackets sewn from lightweight seersucker cotton.

Santoni, footwear

This family-run shoe-maker, hailing from the Marche region of central Italy, has been making classic footwear from the finest Italian leather since 1975. For the spring/summer 2017 season it has jazzed up its signature white trainers. These calfskin kicks add a playfulness to the historic Clean Icon model by splashing colour – whether blood red, royal blue or fluro yellow – across the sides.

Bally, bags

These elegant Le Voyageur bags are our pick of the Swiss label’s colourful spring/summer collection; made in Italy from bull grain, their compact size makes them ideal for weekend getaways. They are finished with thoughtful details: the contrasting leather straps, for instance, can be extended using Bally's trademark Bloom buckle.

Rossignol, jumper

Rossignol, the historic French skiwear brand, continues its march into the world of casualwear with this slouchy, oversized V-neck jumper. The navy number is knitted in Italy from cotton and combines a range of techniques, including jacquard and intarsia.

Jil Sander, trenchcoat, jacket and trousers

From Jil Sander’s spectacular catwalk show, organised following colour gradients, we’ve picked out this outfit in a shade of faded green. The Swiss cotton trenchcoat, jacket and trousers are made in Italy and are inspired by the foggy atmosphere of iconic director Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1964 industrial-plant drama Red Desert.

Barena, jacket

Designer Massimo Pigozzo’s latest collection for Venice-based Barena combines military looks, classical tailoring and streetwear, with some items even sporting prints taken from Venetian palazzos. This checked cotton jacket nods to workwear and is entirely made in Italy.

Valextra, bag

Well known for its minimal approach to designing leather goods, Italian bag-maker Valextra has gone in the opposite direction this season: the inspiration is explicitly maximalist. Pouches in vibrant hues are applied to the brand’s bestselling backpacks and bags using subtle zips, so all external pouches can be added and removed at will.

Brunello Cucinelli, footwear

Brunello Cucinelli’s spring/summer 2017 collection mixes relaxed dressing and a formal twist, with tailored grey trackpants paired with smart linen blazers. Like all of the designer’s pieces, these jazzed-up linen-and-suede sliders are made in the medieval town of Solomeo in central Italy.

Correspondents
Daphné Hézard, Jamie Waters, Chiara Rimella
Photographer
Filippo Bamberghi

0:00:000:01:00

Drag me