Pitti Uomo 2017 - Slideshows | Monocle


Design / Retail

Pitti Uomo 2017

As the thermometer hit 35C the menswear world flocked to Florence’s Fortezza da Basso for the spring/summer 2018 episode of Pitti Uomo. The summer edition is a slightly smaller affair than its winter counterpart (which makes sense: people wear more clothes in winter so that market is bigger) but this season the fortress’s halls had been given a fresh lick of paint and were teeming with buyers from Japan, Scandinavia, Italy and more. These are Monocle’s favourite finds.

De Bonne Facture, coat

This oversized “granddad” parka is inspired by the coats sported by older gents in Paris. Lightweight and paper-thin, it was just one of a host of items that piqued our interest at De Bonne Facture. The brand is the brainchild of Déborah Neuberg, who is based in Paris and works with factories across France to bring her chic, understated men’s designs to life.


La Paz, shorts

This Porto menswear label is always a Pitti standout thanks to its colourful nautical-inspired designs – and this season is no different. Co-founders Jose Miguel de Abreu and André Bastos Texeira conjured a collection filled with cheery pieces: short-sleeved shirts decorated with palm trees, Breton-striped jerseys and these lightweight corduroy shorts, all made in Portugal.


Man 1924, trousers

Man 1924 was founded in Bilbao in 1924 and is now run by the third generation of the Navares family. Everything is made in Spain using Japanese and European fabrics, whether pinstriped seersucker suits, deconstructed blazers or these cuffed trousers made from crunchy Japanese cotton.


Private White VC, shirt

Private White VC, the men’s label that creates casualwear from sumptuous fabrics in its Manchester factory, turned tropical for spring/summer 2018. Highlights included a short-sleeved shirt in breezy white seersucker and this tropical shirt, which boasts a relaxed fit and is woven from super-soft perforated cotton to keep you cool on steamy summer days.


Timo Trunks, swimwear

For its new collection, Bangkok label Timo Trunks turned to the art world for inspiration. “The Matisse” (pictured), for instance, is decorated with a medley of abstract shapes in a nod to the French master’s brightly-coloured cut-outs. Like all of the swimwear brand’s pieces, it is produced in Thailand.


Herno, raincoat

Outerwear brand Herno was born in the northern Italian town of Lesa in 1948 as a raincoat-maker and, despite expanding with a hugely successful line of padded jackets, light waterproof coats are still its forte. To update the brand’s heritage further, these jackets use high-performance laminar fabric that, thanks to Gore-Tex fabrics, ensures complete water-resistance as well as making for a breathable wind-shield.


Danton, shorts

Born in 1931 as Manufacture Textile du Centre in a tiny village of France’s central region of Loir-et-Cher, this brand adopted its founder’s surname in 1935 and later made a name for itself with its excellent workwear. It even became a supplier of public bodies such as Paris’s metro. These bright nylon shorts, however, are a great option for an off-duty weekender.


Made Solid, belts

Husband and wife Peter and Mia Maxwell create handsome leather wares – totes, wallets and eyewear cases – in their LA studio using traditional saddle-making techniques. These belts are made from vegetable-tanned leather sourced from a Missouri tannery and are painted by hand.


Sealup, jacket

Sealup has been turning out the finest raincoats since 1935 but this season it was a cropped jacket from the Milanese house that caught our eye. This Portofino blouson is woven in Italy from cotton seersucker and was a standout piece in a capsule collection inspired by the breezy elegance of Europe’s sleekest resorts.


The Gigi, trousers

For its new collection Milanese menswear label The Gigi took inspiration from retro athletic gear. There were polyester blazers with bright red stripes, sky-blue bomber jackets and these pleated tomato-red trousers, which are made from a polyester blend and have a slightly cropped cut (finishing at the ankle).


Daphné Hézard, Chiara Rimella, Jamie Waters
Alberto Moreu


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