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Design / Fashion

Pitti Uomo & Milano Moda Uomo

With 1,219 exhibitors on show at Florence’s Pitti Uomo – and a schedule packed with catwalk shows and presentations all over Milan – the variety of clothes making their debut on the fashion scene this month is astounding. But joining the dots from stands to runway a picture begins to emerge: autumn/winter 2016 is a season focused on performance and comfort – and one that doesn’t care much for generational boundaries.

01 Casual chic

Skinny jeans and slim suits have been upstaged by baggy trousers and slouchy silhouettes: welcome to the world of casual chic. This season saw plenty of brands playing with a more relaxed fit; here Brunello Cucinelli flaunts wide-cut trousers and comfy jogging bottoms.

01 Casual chic

Meanwhile, with its reinterpretation of the draw-string waist, Bally elevates the tracksuit to a new sartorial level; the added pleats give these trousers a suit-like edge.

02 Technical fabrics

Global warming has pushed brands to think about fabric technology and innovation. The challenge for fashion research is to maintain elegant lines and a lightweight feel, all the while guaranteeing warmth. Kiton’s thermal-wear jackets perfectly combine technology and tradition.

02 Technical fabrics

Tod’s also ventures into experimental territory with its leather-down jacket. This piece combines the time-honoured technique of leather brushing with the lightest padding technology.

03 Multigenerational look

Fathers that dress like sons and sons that dress like fathers: the age gap no longer matters in fashion. As such, it’s no coincidence that Pitti Uomo’s title for this year’s edition is Generation(s). Tod’s three-part shoe series includes boots that borrow from the language of lace-ups, and brogues that nod to trainers.

03 Multigenerational look

At Church’s, traditional brogues are also given a modern slant for a younger audience and cross-generational appeal.

04 Colourful accessories

Denim and coats are going darker with omnipresent shades of quasi-black navy. But when it comes to accessories, designers are purposely getting creative with their palettes.

04 Colourful accessories

Wallets and bags pop with all the brightest colours: Valextra’s in-luggage pouches bring some sunshine into the coldest months.

04 Colourful accessories

Bally’s backpacks – part of a vibrant 1960s-inspired collection – will also add a touch of cheer to any elegant (or austere) wintry outfit.

05 Sportswear influence

Sportswear confirmed its influence on ready-to-wear this season. So much so that an entire pavilion at Pitti Uomo – I Play – was dedicated to the intersection between the worlds of fashion and workout wear. In Milan, skiwear giant Rossignol signed off its first fully casual (yet still technical) collection for urban living, while Ralph Lauren added a whole ski accessories line to its day- and evening-wear classics.

Correspondent
Chiara Rimella
Photographers
Luigi Fiano, Agnese Morganti

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