Vienna travel guide
Food and drink
The fact that Viennese is the name of a specific cuisine says a lot about the city’s culinary history and significance. It’s the capital of strudel, schnitzel, sausages and sachertorte. And what would Vienna be without its singular coffeehouse culture?
Zum Schwarzen Kameel, Innere Stadt
Owner Peter Friese has headed this Viennese institution since 1977 but Kameel (as it’s affectionately known) has been around for almost four centuries. Kameel remains “one of the most egalitarian places in Vienna”, says Friese. “Here a president can sit next to a labourer.” The restaurant had a makeover in 1901 and today is a wonderful example of art nouveau décor, with its tiled walls, hanging half-moon lamps and wood panelling. The menu is skewed towards classics such as schnitzel and goulash. In the bar, people sit at the dark-wood counter or stand around chest-high tables eating small sandwiches that were introduced by Friese’s late mother. Kameel also has an impressive cellar with more than 800 wines on offer.
5 Bognergasse, 1010+43 (0)1 5338 12511
kameel.at
Alma Gastrotheque, Wieden
When chef Christina Nasr and wine expert Andreas Schwarz decided to set up their own restaurant in 2018, they had had more than 20 years of friendship and collaboration behind them. As a result, Alma feels more like a private living room than a bistro. The space, which seats about 30 people, offers a wide selection of natural wines hand-picked by Andreas, as well as simple dishes such as Sicilian arancini and French onion soup.
alma-gastrotheque.at
Pfarrwirt, Döbling
Vienna’s oldest restaurant, the Pfarrwirt is housed in a building that dates back to the 12th century and lies in the shadow of historic Saint Jakob’s Church. Meals are served in three gothic and baroque-style rooms; the beautiful wooden porch was added in 1872 to reflect Vienna’s popular coffee culture. Take a seat in “Beethoven’s favourite spot” and let the kitchen spoil you with classics such as prime boiled beef and wiener schnitzel. It’s a 20-minute drive from the centre of town but this feast is well worth the trip.
5 Pfarrplatz, 1190+43 (0)1 370 7373
pfarrwirt.com
Atlas Bar & Kunstgalerie, Neubau
Atlas Bar & Kunstgalerie opened in 2023 in place of Wratschko, a time-honoured pub once featured on the TV show of late US celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain who proclaimed it “f***ing awesome.” Fans of the original establishment (and there were many) weren’t disappointed: the slightly beat-up interior remains intact, along with Wratschko’s famous wooden bar. Doubling as a contemporary-art gallery, Atlas specialises in natural wines, craft beer and sourdough bread with various toppings. There are ample brunches on weekends, as well as occasional takeovers by friendly chefs.
Neustiftgasse 51
Images: Stefan Fürtbauer, Andreas Jakwerth