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Naples may be in the headlines as a decadent and sometimes dodgy port city but elegant pockets make it an ideal home base. Up the hill in Vomero, above the swarm of Vespas, the San Martino district is an oasis of old-world charm.

East of Piazza Vanvitelli, there’s a promenade where pensioners ride up on escalators and children pour out of schools in the afternoon. Being higher up, the climate is cooler than the city centre, which is close at hand thanks to funiculars that whisk people down in minutes.

Lucky residents still find cobblers, shirtmakers…

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