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While Kobe beef has successfully exported its name around the world, Omi is hardly known outside Japan. And yet Omi is part of the triumvirate of marbled beef – along with Kobe and Matsuzaka – that has come to define the taste of wagyu (literally “Japanese beef”). All three are rooted in the same breed of Tajima long-haired black cows and yet somewhere along the way Omi lost out on the marketing front. Omi, which comes from an area around Lake Biwa in Shiga prefecture, has no such anonymity at home. Of the three, it is known for a lightness that…

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